Touchstone Blog Archive
Monday, January 2, 2012
New Year's Eve at DRG
Diablo Rock Gym had a great evening of fun and excitement on New Year's eve. On December 31, from 6:30 pm to 12:30 am, the staff and 32 climbers gathered at the the Concord gym for lots of awesome events, games, gift give aways, and more.
The group had a fun evening of slack lining, Gri Gri jugging, getting on a commando line, climbing, campusing on a Bachar ladder, and balancing it out on the Indo board.
The gym provided lots of healthy food and beverages for the evening. There was plenty of excitement for the entire evening.
At midnight, a ball was even lowered into the gym. Hans Florine came down as the New Year's Ball. Rumor has it that Dick Clark wanted to come out of retirement to announce Hans' New Year's ball but the doctors kept him away.
Next year's New Year's eve bash should be even better. It's already a great healthy start for a number of climbers, who all promise to come back next year.
The group had a fun evening of slack lining, Gri Gri jugging, getting on a commando line, climbing, campusing on a Bachar ladder, and balancing it out on the Indo board.
The gym provided lots of healthy food and beverages for the evening. There was plenty of excitement for the entire evening.
At midnight, a ball was even lowered into the gym. Hans Florine came down as the New Year's Ball. Rumor has it that Dick Clark wanted to come out of retirement to announce Hans' New Year's ball but the doctors kept him away.
Next year's New Year's eve bash should be even better. It's already a great healthy start for a number of climbers, who all promise to come back next year.Labels: DRG, Hans Florine, New Year's Eve
¶ Monday, January 02, 2012 0 Comments
Tuesday, November 8, 2011
TBS 7 Comes to MetalMark
Saturday afternoon, MetalMark will be hosting the 7th annual Touchstone bouldering series at the gym. The route setters have been busy establishing new boulder problems. From 1 to 5pm, the Fresno gym will be filled with awesome climbing.
Mike Doyle, a Canadian youth climbing team coach, wrote an excellent training manual for people that want to train for a comp series. Doyle's instructions include an awesome visualization technique.
There's also some great information out there about nutrition that helps. There's lots of thoughts regarding carbohydrate intake, dieting, and what foods help performance. Here's a cool link to some information about climbing competition food.
The comp will be a blast. There will be pizza and beer for those not looking for a strict diet. There will be a ton of fun for everyone.
MetalMark will also be hosting the Reel Rock Film Tour at 7:30. Tickets are $10 in advance and $12 at the door. The Tour features an awesome segment about the Nose speed record and Diablo Rock Gym manager Hans Florine will be showing in the film.
Mike Doyle, a Canadian youth climbing team coach, wrote an excellent training manual for people that want to train for a comp series. Doyle's instructions include an awesome visualization technique.
There's also some great information out there about nutrition that helps. There's lots of thoughts regarding carbohydrate intake, dieting, and what foods help performance. Here's a cool link to some information about climbing competition food.
The comp will be a blast. There will be pizza and beer for those not looking for a strict diet. There will be a ton of fun for everyone.
MetalMark will also be hosting the Reel Rock Film Tour at 7:30. Tickets are $10 in advance and $12 at the door. The Tour features an awesome segment about the Nose speed record and Diablo Rock Gym manager Hans Florine will be showing in the film.
Labels: Fresno climbing competition, Hans Florine, TBS 7
¶ Tuesday, November 08, 2011 0 Comments
Sunday, November 6, 2011
Yosemite's Grand Prix: The Race for the Nose
Yosemite’s Grand Prix has kicked off again this fall. The race for the Nose speed record got jumped started again this past month when Hans Florine and Alex Honnold teamed up to race up the 3,000 foot granite formation.
The Nose of El Capitan
Florine and Honnold met at the base of Yosemite’s El Capitan at 9 am. By 11, Honnold had ripped off his shirt and the pair were speeding up the route. Florine led them smoothly to the Boot, the large boot like formation half way up the route. From there, Honnold took the lead.
Alex Honnold and Hans Florine at the base of El Capitan
In the past few weeks, the pair made a few trial runs up the route to accustom themselves to the route and learn how to climb well together. When asked what the most important part of team efficiency is, Florine responded “Trust.” The pair simul-climb significant portions of the route and have to trust each other not to slip or make a costly mistake, jeopardizing the record and their lives. A fall would be dangerous, especially considering the minimal gear they place between them.
“One #3 cam, one #2, then doubles on down from there,” said Florine of the paltry fourteen cams they brought with them. “Alex wants me to leave the #2 in the car/van.” They try to keep it reasonable though. “It's kind of a balance between running it out for speed and keeping it safe enough to feel comfortable,” said Honnold. “Safety first, fun second, speed third,” said Florine.
Florine going to Dolt
The fastest part of their climbing is simply their lack of idle time on the route. “I don't really move so fast,” said Honnold, “we're just efficient about transitions and strategy. We aren't actually moving all that fast. It's boring to watch.” The pair minimize the belay transitions and simply both move the entire time. They whittled their time from 4:37 on Oct 13th to 3:16 the next week. On November 1st, the pair tried once more.
Honnold racing up the Great Roof
They flirted with the record and were on track the entire way. By the last pitch, they were 7 minutes from the record. Honnold yarded up the bolt ladder. Florine had 4 minutes to finish the pitch. Florine scampered up, almost but not quite hitting the bolts perfectly. The speed bump cost a few seconds. Tom Evans, the man behind the camera at El Cap Bridge, and dozens of climbers bit their nails as they watched from the bridge. They waited for the signal that the pair had beaten the record.
Florine’s obsession with the Nose of El Capitan passion began in 1988, when he partnered with Mike Lopez to climb the center line on Yosemite’s prominent granite formation. Since then, the 47 year old Diablo Rock Gym manager has climbed the Nose 85 times and held the speed record on the route 6 times since 1990.
On the way to Camp 6
Compared to Hans’ 85 times on the route, Honnold has climbed the route, “Maybe 12 or 15 times? Maybe a few more?” Honnold, a 26 year old climber from Sacramento, sped up the Nose last summer and nabbed the solo speed record. Honnold climbed the route for the first time with his friend Josh, who he met at Pipeworks. “I was wrecked for days,” said Honnold of their 22 hour ascent. Honnold continued to speed climb. “I just like the smoothness and efficiency. Speed climbing always feels good because you're doing it so well.” A few summers ago, Honnold and Swiss Machine Ueli Steck attempted to break the Nose Speed record, logging sub 4 hour times.
Hans starting the last pitch
Unfortunately, the pair missed the record by a mere 45 seconds. But this was just a practice run for the team and not a “real” effort. “Given the style/method we are using I think that 2:17 is about as fast as it will go,” said Florine about the fastest possible time. Honnold believes the route can be down even faster. “I sorta think that the right people could maybe do it in sub 2 hours. I think that's nearing the limits of human abilities.” They both believe they can beat Sean Leary and Dean Potter’s 2010 time of 2:36:45 and are willing to put in the effort required.
Florine trains for the NIAD (Nose in a day) by climbing at the Touchstone gyms. “Usually jaunts over to GWPC, BIW, and MC to get in some crack climbing,” said Florine. He attributes his fast movement to his experience with gear placement, selection and knowing his body. Late nights laps in the gyms have helped him get closer to the record but it’s his dedication that has helped the most.
“I just think owning the record on The Nose is worth following a path for as long as I can. Perhaps I'll get the record, perhaps not, I am really loving giving it a go, regardless of the outcome.” Honnold added, “Some day I'd be psyched to be able to say "I once held the speed record on the Nose", but really, it's not that big a thing. If I ever break 2 hours, then I'll be impressed. . .”
The pair hope to climb the route again but Honnold has to leave for Poland in a few days and their ascent is weather dependent. Good luck to both climbers.
Thanks to Tom Evans, of the El Cap report for the photos.
1:59:59 Alex Honnold and Hans Florine- ????
2:36:45 Sean Leary and Dean Potter, 2010
2:43:33 Yuji Hirayama and Hans Florine, 2008
2:45:45 Alexander and Thomas Huber, 2007
2:48:50 Yuji Hirayama and Hans Florine, 2002
3:24:20 Timmy O’Neill and Dean Potter, 2001
3:57:37 Jim Herson and Hans Florine, 2001
3:59:35 Timmy O’Neill and Dean Potter, 2001
4:22:00 Peter Croft and Hans Florine, 1992
4:48:00 Dave Shultz and Peter Croft, 1991
6:01:00 Andres Puhvel and Hans Florine, 1991
6:40:00 Dave Schultz and Peter Croft, 1990
8:06:00 Steve Schneider and Hans Florine, 1990
The Nose of El Capitan
Florine and Honnold met at the base of Yosemite’s El Capitan at 9 am. By 11, Honnold had ripped off his shirt and the pair were speeding up the route. Florine led them smoothly to the Boot, the large boot like formation half way up the route. From there, Honnold took the lead.
Alex Honnold and Hans Florine at the base of El Capitan
In the past few weeks, the pair made a few trial runs up the route to accustom themselves to the route and learn how to climb well together. When asked what the most important part of team efficiency is, Florine responded “Trust.” The pair simul-climb significant portions of the route and have to trust each other not to slip or make a costly mistake, jeopardizing the record and their lives. A fall would be dangerous, especially considering the minimal gear they place between them.
“One #3 cam, one #2, then doubles on down from there,” said Florine of the paltry fourteen cams they brought with them. “Alex wants me to leave the #2 in the car/van.” They try to keep it reasonable though. “It's kind of a balance between running it out for speed and keeping it safe enough to feel comfortable,” said Honnold. “Safety first, fun second, speed third,” said Florine.
Florine going to Dolt
The fastest part of their climbing is simply their lack of idle time on the route. “I don't really move so fast,” said Honnold, “we're just efficient about transitions and strategy. We aren't actually moving all that fast. It's boring to watch.” The pair minimize the belay transitions and simply both move the entire time. They whittled their time from 4:37 on Oct 13th to 3:16 the next week. On November 1st, the pair tried once more.
Honnold racing up the Great Roof
They flirted with the record and were on track the entire way. By the last pitch, they were 7 minutes from the record. Honnold yarded up the bolt ladder. Florine had 4 minutes to finish the pitch. Florine scampered up, almost but not quite hitting the bolts perfectly. The speed bump cost a few seconds. Tom Evans, the man behind the camera at El Cap Bridge, and dozens of climbers bit their nails as they watched from the bridge. They waited for the signal that the pair had beaten the record.
Florine’s obsession with the Nose of El Capitan passion began in 1988, when he partnered with Mike Lopez to climb the center line on Yosemite’s prominent granite formation. Since then, the 47 year old Diablo Rock Gym manager has climbed the Nose 85 times and held the speed record on the route 6 times since 1990.
On the way to Camp 6
Compared to Hans’ 85 times on the route, Honnold has climbed the route, “Maybe 12 or 15 times? Maybe a few more?” Honnold, a 26 year old climber from Sacramento, sped up the Nose last summer and nabbed the solo speed record. Honnold climbed the route for the first time with his friend Josh, who he met at Pipeworks. “I was wrecked for days,” said Honnold of their 22 hour ascent. Honnold continued to speed climb. “I just like the smoothness and efficiency. Speed climbing always feels good because you're doing it so well.” A few summers ago, Honnold and Swiss Machine Ueli Steck attempted to break the Nose Speed record, logging sub 4 hour times.
Hans starting the last pitch
Unfortunately, the pair missed the record by a mere 45 seconds. But this was just a practice run for the team and not a “real” effort. “Given the style/method we are using I think that 2:17 is about as fast as it will go,” said Florine about the fastest possible time. Honnold believes the route can be down even faster. “I sorta think that the right people could maybe do it in sub 2 hours. I think that's nearing the limits of human abilities.” They both believe they can beat Sean Leary and Dean Potter’s 2010 time of 2:36:45 and are willing to put in the effort required.
Florine trains for the NIAD (Nose in a day) by climbing at the Touchstone gyms. “Usually jaunts over to GWPC, BIW, and MC to get in some crack climbing,” said Florine. He attributes his fast movement to his experience with gear placement, selection and knowing his body. Late nights laps in the gyms have helped him get closer to the record but it’s his dedication that has helped the most.
“I just think owning the record on The Nose is worth following a path for as long as I can. Perhaps I'll get the record, perhaps not, I am really loving giving it a go, regardless of the outcome.” Honnold added, “Some day I'd be psyched to be able to say "I once held the speed record on the Nose", but really, it's not that big a thing. If I ever break 2 hours, then I'll be impressed. . .”
The pair hope to climb the route again but Honnold has to leave for Poland in a few days and their ascent is weather dependent. Good luck to both climbers.
Thanks to Tom Evans, of the El Cap report for the photos.
1:59:59 Alex Honnold and Hans Florine- ????
2:36:45 Sean Leary and Dean Potter, 2010
2:43:33 Yuji Hirayama and Hans Florine, 2008
2:45:45 Alexander and Thomas Huber, 2007
2:48:50 Yuji Hirayama and Hans Florine, 2002
3:24:20 Timmy O’Neill and Dean Potter, 2001
3:57:37 Jim Herson and Hans Florine, 2001
3:59:35 Timmy O’Neill and Dean Potter, 2001
4:22:00 Peter Croft and Hans Florine, 1992
4:48:00 Dave Shultz and Peter Croft, 1991
6:01:00 Andres Puhvel and Hans Florine, 1991
6:40:00 Dave Schultz and Peter Croft, 1990
8:06:00 Steve Schneider and Hans Florine, 1990
Labels: Alex Honnold, Hans Florine, Tom Evans
¶ Sunday, November 06, 2011 0 Comments
Wednesday, October 26, 2011
Project Bandaloop
Project Bandaloop performs across the world. A product of the bay area, Project Bandaloop has expanded across the globe and offers a great glimpse into the artistic aspects of climbing.
"They blend parts of classical dance, Cirque De Soliel, climbing, and rope work with a detailed aesthetic sense to the particular building, wall, structure, or cliff that they are performing on or around," said Hans Florine, a former performer and rigger for Project Bandaloop. The performance company started when Amelia Rudolph wanted to combine her climbing with her dance. She put on a show at City Rock gym in 1991.
This footage shows a session in the Sierra.
Florine, the manager at Diablo Rock Gym, has rigged and performed for them in New York's Time Square, in India, in Italy, and across California. A number of other bay area climbers have worked with the company as well. Check out some of their amazing footage on their website.
"They blend parts of classical dance, Cirque De Soliel, climbing, and rope work with a detailed aesthetic sense to the particular building, wall, structure, or cliff that they are performing on or around," said Hans Florine, a former performer and rigger for Project Bandaloop. The performance company started when Amelia Rudolph wanted to combine her climbing with her dance. She put on a show at City Rock gym in 1991.
2009 Project Bandaloop Eastern Sierra Workshop from Project Bandaloop on Vimeo.
This footage shows a session in the Sierra.
Florine, the manager at Diablo Rock Gym, has rigged and performed for them in New York's Time Square, in India, in Italy, and across California. A number of other bay area climbers have worked with the company as well. Check out some of their amazing footage on their website.
Labels: City Rock, Hans Florine, Project Bandaloop
¶ Wednesday, October 26, 2011 0 Comments
Wednesday, June 1, 2011
Bay Area Film Maker's Climbing Birthday Challenge
Byron Wolter, a 27 year old climbing film maker from the Bay area, decided to take on a rigorous birthday challenge this year. The Golden Gate National Recreation Area employee tested his desire to improve his bouldering, roller blading, and get pysched. Birthday challenges are great ways to get yourself to spice up your regular routine. Check out the one that Diablo Rock Gym Hans Florine wrote about.
Spencer tang-Smith, another bay area climber who did a birthday challenge, talked about Byron's birthday challenge and his improvement. "The new Byron is not only improved, but inspiring. He's an inspiration to every climber who blames life circumstances on their lack of improvement, every alcoholic who lets the sauce get in the way of their dreams, everyone who wishes they could make a drastic change in their life but is too afraid to take the leap. More than ever, I'm proud to call Byron one of my best friends."
Byron made a video of his birthday challenge and the tape was chosen in this years "Next big indie Director" Contest put on by Fandango. The prize is a camera that will allow Byron and team to count on higher production quality on a year long road trip that will document climbing history across America.
Check out Byron's video Byron and team out. click Here, Watch, Vote. And be stoked. The Contest ends June 5th so vote for the local film maker.
Byron also made a number of cool bouldering videos of Mortar Rock as well as Bishop. you can see them at his Vimeo Site
Wolter Byron Vimeo's Site
Spencer tang-Smith, another bay area climber who did a birthday challenge, talked about Byron's birthday challenge and his improvement. "The new Byron is not only improved, but inspiring. He's an inspiration to every climber who blames life circumstances on their lack of improvement, every alcoholic who lets the sauce get in the way of their dreams, everyone who wishes they could make a drastic change in their life but is too afraid to take the leap. More than ever, I'm proud to call Byron one of my best friends."
Byron made a video of his birthday challenge and the tape was chosen in this years "Next big indie Director" Contest put on by Fandango. The prize is a camera that will allow Byron and team to count on higher production quality on a year long road trip that will document climbing history across America.
Check out Byron's video Byron and team out. click Here, Watch, Vote. And be stoked. The Contest ends June 5th so vote for the local film maker.
Byron also made a number of cool bouldering videos of Mortar Rock as well as Bishop. you can see them at his Vimeo Site
Wolter Byron Vimeo's Site
Labels: birthday challeges, Hans Florine, Wolter Byron
¶ Wednesday, June 01, 2011 0 Comments
Tuesday, May 10, 2011
Touchstone Climbers in the Limelight
Touchstone employees are some of the most motivated climbers around the bay area. From shoveling off boulder problems in the middle of Yosemite winters to driving across the country to send big wall free climbs, the Touchstone crew is stoker! A number of employees have been in the limelight recently.
Hans Florine, the Diablo Rock Gym manager, got mentioned in the National Geographic article about Yosemite for his super fast ascents of the Nose on El Capitan. He was also featured in a PowerBar ad in Outside magazine.
Touchstone's blogger and resident dirtbag climber, James Lucas made a recent trip to Zion National Park where he dispatched of Moonlight Buttress- a long 5.12d. Brittany Griffith wrote about James and their ascent of the formation at the Cleanest Line- Patagonia's blog site.
James on the 9th pitch of Moonlight Buttress (5.12d)
James's pies were also mentioned in the National Geographic article about Yosemite. He was one of the two climbers who brought "homemade apple pies" to a climber party. "First my pies are in Nat Geo. Next they'll be on the Food Network. Watch out Martha Stewart- I'm coming for you," said James.
Touchstone route setter and hipster rock star, Brian "Cuz" Hedrick made a recent ascent of the Kraken at Mortar Rock in the Berkeley hills. Wolter Byron, a bay area film maker, shot footage of the send and made a cool video. Get pysched on the local boulders and with Cuz's beta- you can fight the Kraken.
Hans Florine, the Diablo Rock Gym manager, got mentioned in the National Geographic article about Yosemite for his super fast ascents of the Nose on El Capitan. He was also featured in a PowerBar ad in Outside magazine.
Touchstone's blogger and resident dirtbag climber, James Lucas made a recent trip to Zion National Park where he dispatched of Moonlight Buttress- a long 5.12d. Brittany Griffith wrote about James and their ascent of the formation at the Cleanest Line- Patagonia's blog site.
James on the 9th pitch of Moonlight Buttress (5.12d)
James's pies were also mentioned in the National Geographic article about Yosemite. He was one of the two climbers who brought "homemade apple pies" to a climber party. "First my pies are in Nat Geo. Next they'll be on the Food Network. Watch out Martha Stewart- I'm coming for you," said James.
Touchstone route setter and hipster rock star, Brian "Cuz" Hedrick made a recent ascent of the Kraken at Mortar Rock in the Berkeley hills. Wolter Byron, a bay area film maker, shot footage of the send and made a cool video. Get pysched on the local boulders and with Cuz's beta- you can fight the Kraken.
The Kraken from ByronWolter on Vimeo.
Labels: Brian Hedrick, Hans Florine, James Lucas
¶ Tuesday, May 10, 2011 0 Comments
Monday, April 11, 2011
A Tradical Nose Rack
Hans Florine knows the Nose. The Diablo Rock gym manager has made dozens of ascents including some blindingly fast 4 hour speed blasts of the long route on Yosemite’s El Capitan. With the spring weather finally clearing up in Yosemite and the Capitan looking prime, it’s time to get tradical! Check out the gear list from Hans and his great recommendations, then stop by your nearest Touchstone gym to stock up on some great gear.
Hans wrote out his rack-
1 # 3 Camalot
1 # 2 Camalot
2 # 1 Camalot
1 #.75 Camalot
1 #.5 Camalot
2 #.4 Camalots
2 #.3 Camalots
6 Black Diamond Stoppers
One cam hook, one etrier, 17 light weight Black Diamond quickdraws, 18 Neutrino biners, 4 locking carabiners, 6 long runners, a Petzl Gri Gri, and a set of Petzl ascenders.
Hans added that a solid trad rack for Yosemite would include a set of Omega Pacific link cams , 2 cordelettes- (5 to 7 mm cords in 18 to 22 ft in length to build anchors with), Metolious tricams (the middle four of the set of six are awesome for pin scars), a Petzl Reverso
“If you know you are going to be doing wide cracks then buy another #2 camalot, another #3 and two #4s,” said Hans. “There are very few cracks that are continuously wide and require more than this, on the occasion that they do, I recommend asking to borrow from friends. Ask me if you need some.”
“Lastly if you know a crack you are headed up is notorious for a certain size for a long distance than add to this rack accordingly or borrow. For the people
Hans wrote out his rack-
1 # 3 Camalot
1 # 2 Camalot
2 # 1 Camalot
1 #.75 Camalot
1 #.5 Camalot
2 #.4 Camalots
2 #.3 Camalots
6 Black Diamond Stoppers
One cam hook, one etrier, 17 light weight Black Diamond quickdraws, 18 Neutrino biners, 4 locking carabiners, 6 long runners, a Petzl Gri Gri, and a set of Petzl ascenders.
Hans added that a solid trad rack for Yosemite would include a set of Omega Pacific link cams , 2 cordelettes- (5 to 7 mm cords in 18 to 22 ft in length to build anchors with), Metolious tricams (the middle four of the set of six are awesome for pin scars), a Petzl Reverso
“If you know you are going to be doing wide cracks then buy another #2 camalot, another #3 and two #4s,” said Hans. “There are very few cracks that are continuously wide and require more than this, on the occasion that they do, I recommend asking to borrow from friends. Ask me if you need some.”
“Lastly if you know a crack you are headed up is notorious for a certain size for a long distance than add to this rack accordingly or borrow. For the people
Labels: camalots, Hans Florine, trad climbing gear
¶ Monday, April 11, 2011 0 Comments
Wednesday, December 8, 2010
New Diablo Rock Gym Manager Hans Florine
Hans Florine, 46, began climbing 28 years ago at San Luis Obispo, where he went to college. A dorm mate invited him to a 20 foot boulder in the middle of a cow field. Rigging a toprope, Florine began climbing. From there his life as a climber took off.
Florine has been a long time member of the Touchstone community. From working the front desk at Berkeley Ironworks, to building the cracks at the Oakland gyms, to teaching clinics over the years, Florine explored the different Touchstone communities. Recently, Florine took the position as the manager of Diablo Rock Gym, the climbing gym he has been training at for over 5 years. “I feel honored to have a relationship with the owners and managers, to take a larger role, and commit for a longer time,” Florine said of the position. “I want to expand the membership so that we have a more vibrant group and more energy in the gym. We’ll be strengthening our relationships with families, nearby companies, colleges, and surrounding groups. We provide the best atmosphere for a climbing community. We want people to know that.”
Since 1980, Florine has climbed El Capitan 144 times and climbed The Nose 72 times. Beginning in 1990 with fellow blonde rock star Steve Scheneider, Florine whittled down the speed record on The Nose from 6 months on the first ascent by Warren Harding to a blinding fast sub 3 hour time. Florine is world renown for his fast ascents and has written a book “Speed Climbing: How to Climb Faster and Better.” Florine also works as a motivational speaker, discussing his success on El Cap and relating it to corporate models. Florine spends his free time with his wife of ten years, Jacki, his ten year old daughter, Marianna, and his seven year old son, Pierce.
Stop by Diablo Rock Gym and meet up with Hans Florine, the manager. Check out the new programs and activities he has planned for the gym!
Florine has been a long time member of the Touchstone community. From working the front desk at Berkeley Ironworks, to building the cracks at the Oakland gyms, to teaching clinics over the years, Florine explored the different Touchstone communities. Recently, Florine took the position as the manager of Diablo Rock Gym, the climbing gym he has been training at for over 5 years. “I feel honored to have a relationship with the owners and managers, to take a larger role, and commit for a longer time,” Florine said of the position. “I want to expand the membership so that we have a more vibrant group and more energy in the gym. We’ll be strengthening our relationships with families, nearby companies, colleges, and surrounding groups. We provide the best atmosphere for a climbing community. We want people to know that.”
Since 1980, Florine has climbed El Capitan 144 times and climbed The Nose 72 times. Beginning in 1990 with fellow blonde rock star Steve Scheneider, Florine whittled down the speed record on The Nose from 6 months on the first ascent by Warren Harding to a blinding fast sub 3 hour time. Florine is world renown for his fast ascents and has written a book “Speed Climbing: How to Climb Faster and Better.” Florine also works as a motivational speaker, discussing his success on El Cap and relating it to corporate models. Florine spends his free time with his wife of ten years, Jacki, his ten year old daughter, Marianna, and his seven year old son, Pierce.
Stop by Diablo Rock Gym and meet up with Hans Florine, the manager. Check out the new programs and activities he has planned for the gym!
Labels: Diablo Rock Gym, Hans Florine, speed climbing
¶ Wednesday, December 08, 2010 0 Comments
Wednesday, June 23, 2010
Solo Link-up Of Half Dome and El Capitan
Alex Honnold experiences serious road rage. "I can't wait until this turns into a real highway. I'm over this two-lane business," he said during an interview with the Touchstone Blog. "I followed some slow poke all the way out of Yosemite."
Alex Honnold is not used to moving slowly. Yesterday, Honnold was speeding, climbing first the Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome in 2 hours and 9 minutes and then the Nose of El Capitan in 5 hours 59 minutes.
Honnold is more used to the fast movement of cruising up giant granite walls than the stop and go of commuter traffic. "I'm losing it, I can't take it anymore. I reached a certain threshold and just can't deal with it anymore." The road to LA, where he was heading to visit his lady friend, was filled with traffic. The routes in Yosemite were far more open. He completed the Nose of El Capitan faster than he was able to drive from Yosemite to LA. Honnold slept at the base of Half Dome, climbed the route, hiked to the Nose, and then topped out El Capitan 11 hours after he started climbing.
Honnold racked up at the bridge of El Capitan. This was his first solo ascent of El Capitan. The night before he had read Hans Florine's Speed Climbing book and was excited to try some of the tricks he had learned.
Honnold bested Touchstone climber's Hans Florine previous solo speed record of the Nose and Half Dome. Florine has an extensive collection of records for all Yosemite Valley speed climbs at his website, Speed Climbing.com
Honnold climbed much of the routes ropeless. Here he is pictured above the Great Roof on the Nose on Pancake Flake's 11c section, a few thousand feet above the valley floor.
There's a forum thread on Supertopo about his climb as well as more images from the El Cap reporter, Tom "Ansel" Evans.
"Dude, I used a brush that I got from Pipeworks the other day. Make sure you put that in the blog. It's boars hair. Also say that I'm incredibly handsome and good looking," Honnold stated in his interview. That's when traffic cleared and Honnold was able to start speeding again. "I'm so excited! I almost up to 65! I got to go!"
Alex Honnold is not used to moving slowly. Yesterday, Honnold was speeding, climbing first the Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome in 2 hours and 9 minutes and then the Nose of El Capitan in 5 hours 59 minutes.
Honnold is more used to the fast movement of cruising up giant granite walls than the stop and go of commuter traffic. "I'm losing it, I can't take it anymore. I reached a certain threshold and just can't deal with it anymore." The road to LA, where he was heading to visit his lady friend, was filled with traffic. The routes in Yosemite were far more open. He completed the Nose of El Capitan faster than he was able to drive from Yosemite to LA. Honnold slept at the base of Half Dome, climbed the route, hiked to the Nose, and then topped out El Capitan 11 hours after he started climbing.
Honnold racked up at the bridge of El Capitan. This was his first solo ascent of El Capitan. The night before he had read Hans Florine's Speed Climbing book and was excited to try some of the tricks he had learned.
Honnold bested Touchstone climber's Hans Florine previous solo speed record of the Nose and Half Dome. Florine has an extensive collection of records for all Yosemite Valley speed climbs at his website, Speed Climbing.com
Honnold climbed much of the routes ropeless. Here he is pictured above the Great Roof on the Nose on Pancake Flake's 11c section, a few thousand feet above the valley floor.
There's a forum thread on Supertopo about his climb as well as more images from the El Cap reporter, Tom "Ansel" Evans.
"Dude, I used a brush that I got from Pipeworks the other day. Make sure you put that in the blog. It's boars hair. Also say that I'm incredibly handsome and good looking," Honnold stated in his interview. That's when traffic cleared and Honnold was able to start speeding again. "I'm so excited! I almost up to 65! I got to go!"
Labels: Alex Honnold, Hans Florine, The Nose
¶ Wednesday, June 23, 2010 3 Comments
Wednesday, October 7, 2009
1st Anniversary of Hans Florine Nose Speed Record
Last year, Hans Florine made a blindingly fast ascent of The Nose of El Capitan with Yuji Hirayama. The pair topped out the 2,000 foot granite monolith in less time than it takes to drive to the base from the Bay. As part of the anniversary of this world record, Hans Florine is hosting a benefit for the Yosemite Institute and Yosemite Association by having a multi-media presentation, raffle, and auction at Extreme Pizza in Walnut Creek on October 14, 2009 at 6 Pm. Join Hans and other Bay area climbers celebrate this significant feat and help out YI and the Yosemite Association. For more information check out Han's page describing the raffle prizes and auction.
Hans and Yuji in El Cap Meadow
Hans and Yuji in El Cap Meadow
Labels: Hans Florine, Yosemite Assosciation, Yuji Hirayama
¶ Wednesday, October 07, 2009 0 Comments
Monday, July 27, 2009
Hans Florine Crack Clinic
Hans Florine, one of the fastest climbers on Earth, has climbed more than one million vertical feet of crack. With more than 68 ascents of El Capitan's The Nose, Hans has set the speed record at a blindingly fast 2 hours 37 minutes and five seconds. Beyond his exploits on El Capitan, Hans wrote Speed Climbing: How to Climb Better and Faster and has worked as a mountain guide across the United States. The Bay area climber will be providing a clinic on how to climb cracks this week at GWPC in Oakland.
During his two hour clinic, Hans will provide a tip or two or ten on how to crack climb. You will learn what kind of pain is 'OK' and what kind to avoid. You may even learn how to chug along the vertical cracks of Yosemite with a bit of a smile.
Hans' Crack Clinic will be at Great Western Pacific Works from 7-9 pm on Wednesday, July 29. The cost is $40.
Learn from a master crack climber and get some practice on the great cracks at the Oakland gym on Wednesday night.
For more information about Han's speed climbing in Yosemite, check out The Speedclimbing Homepage
During his two hour clinic, Hans will provide a tip or two or ten on how to crack climb. You will learn what kind of pain is 'OK' and what kind to avoid. You may even learn how to chug along the vertical cracks of Yosemite with a bit of a smile.
Hans' Crack Clinic will be at Great Western Pacific Works from 7-9 pm on Wednesday, July 29. The cost is $40.
Learn from a master crack climber and get some practice on the great cracks at the Oakland gym on Wednesday night.
For more information about Han's speed climbing in Yosemite, check out The Speedclimbing Homepage
Labels: Crack Clinic, Hans Florine, The Nose
¶ Monday, July 27, 2009 0 Comments
Thursday, May 28, 2009
Hans Florine Slideshow @ Diablo Rock Gym
If you missed out on this earlier this month at Mission Cliffs its not too late. This Saturday, May 30th at 7:00 pm Diablo Rock Gym is hosting a slideshow presentation from none other than Hans Florine. As tickets are only $10 for members and $15 for non-members, you shouldn't even dream of missing out on this.
Here's a bit more.
"Hans was on the cover of the SF Chronicle FOUR TIMES last year for breaking the speed record on The Nose route on El Capitan in Yosemite. Hans will share with you the story of his relationship with The Nose route over the past 21 years. And will show you a peek at the new Masters Of Stone VI DVD that features Yuji and Hans' record ascent. See more at speedclimb.com and mastersofstone.com $10 members $15 non members. Tickets available now at the front desk. Light refreshments served. --- www.HansFlorine.com Speed Expert"
We hope to see you there, trust me, this is something you won't want to miss out on.
If you missed out on this earlier this month at Mission Cliffs its not too late. This Saturday, May 30th at 7:00 pm Diablo Rock Gym is hosting a slideshow presentation from none other than Hans Florine. As tickets are only $10 for members and $15 for non-members, you shouldn't even dream of missing out on this.
Here's a bit more.
"Hans was on the cover of the SF Chronicle FOUR TIMES last year for breaking the speed record on The Nose route on El Capitan in Yosemite. Hans will share with you the story of his relationship with The Nose route over the past 21 years. And will show you a peek at the new Masters Of Stone VI DVD that features Yuji and Hans' record ascent. See more at speedclimb.com and mastersofstone.com $10 members $15 non members. Tickets available now at the front desk. Light refreshments served. --- www.HansFlorine.com Speed Expert"
We hope to see you there, trust me, this is something you won't want to miss out on.
Labels: Diablo Rock Gym, El Capitan, Hans Florine, Slideshow, Speed Record
¶ Thursday, May 28, 2009 0 Comments
Wednesday, May 13, 2009
Hans Florine Slideshow @ Mission Cliffs
Talk about an event you really shouldn't even consider missing out on! Clear your schedules for this Saturday, May 16th at 7:00 pm as our Mission Cliffs gym is hosting a slideshow presentation from none other than Hans Florine. As tickets are only $10 for members and $15 for non-members, you shouldn't even dream of missing out on this.
Here's a bit more from our Mission Cliffs gym:
Talk about an event you really shouldn't even consider missing out on! Clear your schedules for this Saturday, May 16th at 7:00 pm as our Mission Cliffs gym is hosting a slideshow presentation from none other than Hans Florine. As tickets are only $10 for members and $15 for non-members, you shouldn't even dream of missing out on this.
Here's a bit more from our Mission Cliffs gym:
Hans was on the cover of the SF Chronicle FOUR TIMES last year for breaking the speed record on The Nose route on El Capitan in Yosemite. Hans will share with you the story of his relationship with The Nose route over the past 21 years. And will show you a peek at the new Masters Of Stone VI DVD that features Yuji and Hans' record ascent. See more at speedclimb.com and mastersofstone.com $10 members $15 non members. Tickets available now at the front desk. Light refreshments served. --- www.HansFlorine.com Speed ExpertWe hope to see you there, trust me, this is something you won't want to miss out on.
Labels: Events, Hans Florine, mission cliffs, Slideshow, Tickets
¶ Wednesday, May 13, 2009 0 Comments
Friday, January 23, 2009
Climbing Clip of the Week: Hans & Yuji Speed Record
Something special this week for our Climbing Clip of the Week...how about getting to check out Part 1 of Hans Florine and Yuji Hirayama's unbelievable, record breaking, brand new Speed Record on El Capitan.
The video is, to say the least, awe inspiring and I'm sure everyone who watches it will feel like they need to practice a whole heck of a lot more than they already are. Nevertheless, for a great way to end Friday, I think it'll do.
So, without further ado, check out the awesome video below of Hans and Yuji's record-shattering assault of The Nose. We'll see you Monday, in the meantime, we need to get more clips of our very own climbers doing what they do best. If you have any, or even just links of yourselves on YouTube, send them in...we'd love to feature you!
The video is, to say the least, awe inspiring and I'm sure everyone who watches it will feel like they need to practice a whole heck of a lot more than they already are. Nevertheless, for a great way to end Friday, I think it'll do.
So, without further ado, check out the awesome video below of Hans and Yuji's record-shattering assault of The Nose. We'll see you Monday, in the meantime, we need to get more clips of our very own climbers doing what they do best. If you have any, or even just links of yourselves on YouTube, send them in...we'd love to feature you!
Labels: Climbing Clip of the Week, Climbing Movie, Climbing Video, Hans Florine, Yuji Hirayama
¶ Friday, January 23, 2009 0 Comments
Tuesday, November 25, 2008
GWPC Story Night! December 3rd!
This event, my good climbing friends, is one you will NOT want to miss. December 3rd, only a little over a week away, is rapidly approaching and each and every one of you in the Great Western Power Company area should be marking it down on your calendar. Why, you ask? Simple, STORY NIGHT with Hans Florine.
Yep, you heard right. December 3rd at 8:00 pm the official storytelling and presentation begins, my advice, come early to get in some climbing so you're completely in the groove come story time. Here is some more information you need to know, to be in the know:
On a separate, unrelated note, I just wanted to remind each and every one of you, members of all the different Touchstone Climbing Gyms, that all of our Touchstone Gyms will have special, Holiday Hours on Wednesday, and Friday before and after Thanksgiving. We will be closed Thanksgiving Day, but give your local gym a call to see their hours for the days before and after!
(Image via Brianz on Flickr)
This event, my good climbing friends, is one you will NOT want to miss. December 3rd, only a little over a week away, is rapidly approaching and each and every one of you in the Great Western Power Company area should be marking it down on your calendar. Why, you ask? Simple, STORY NIGHT with Hans Florine.
Yep, you heard right. December 3rd at 8:00 pm the official storytelling and presentation begins, my advice, come early to get in some climbing so you're completely in the groove come story time. Here is some more information you need to know, to be in the know:
December 3rd come for a night of Stories about one thing: The Nose.There you have it, mark it down and we'll see you there!
The first story telling of the new Nose record. (Yuji Hirayama and Hans climbed it in 2:37:05 on October 12th 2008) Hans Florine will share an evening with you at: The Great Western Power Company. With the aid of video clips and photos Hans will tell stories about Yuji Hirayama and Hans's preparations, history, planning, drama, training, and execution of climbing The Nose Route of El Capitan, the 3000ft granite cliff in Yosemite.
Touchstone Climbing is hosting the event at:
http://touchstoneclimbing.com/gw.html
Touchstone had 150 limited edition photographic prints made to commemorate 50 years of climbing The Nose route. These prints are for sale at: www.speedclimb.com/50th. We will try to reserve some to auction at the December 2/3rd event. If you want to guarantee there is one there for you, buy it online and put in the notes section of the checkout that you'll pick it up at the December 2/3rd event. (or say nothing and we'll ship it)
Light refreshments and drinks will be available. A $16 admission fee will be charged for non Touchstone climbing members. Funds raised during the event will go to benefit the Access Fund and the YCA - which created the Climbing museum in Yosemite.
On a separate, unrelated note, I just wanted to remind each and every one of you, members of all the different Touchstone Climbing Gyms, that all of our Touchstone Gyms will have special, Holiday Hours on Wednesday, and Friday before and after Thanksgiving. We will be closed Thanksgiving Day, but give your local gym a call to see their hours for the days before and after!
(Image via Brianz on Flickr)
Labels: El Capitan, Great Western Power Co., GWPC, Hans Florine, Rock climbing, Storytelling, Yosemite National Park, Yuji Hirayama
¶ Tuesday, November 25, 2008 0 Comments
Monday, October 20, 2008
Hans Destroys Record on El Cap!
Hello and Happy Monday! Congratulations are certainly in order for our very own Hans Florine and his climbing partner Yuji Hirayama as they absolutely decimated their own previous record for fastest climb up the Nose of El Capitan. In June, the two did this spectacular feat in a breathtaking 2 hours, 43 minutes and 33 seconds, but resting on their laurels was not going to happen.
The new record, an even more jaw-dropping 2 hours, 37 minutes and 5 seconds came as the two men battled the cold, gravity and themselves on October 12. The ascent up El Capitan, specifically the nose route, would take normal climbers three full days of climbing, resting and climbing again to complete. Hans and Yuji, two of the best speed-climbers in the entire world, managed to pack all of that climbing with none of that resting and demolish their record by a full 6 minutes.
Check out the video of some of their climb, it's not to be missed and a great indication of just how talented both of these men really are. Congrats Hans, congrats Yuji!
(Image: Michael Maloney/The Chronicle)
Hello and Happy Monday! Congratulations are certainly in order for our very own Hans Florine and his climbing partner Yuji Hirayama as they absolutely decimated their own previous record for fastest climb up the Nose of El Capitan. In June, the two did this spectacular feat in a breathtaking 2 hours, 43 minutes and 33 seconds, but resting on their laurels was not going to happen.
The new record, an even more jaw-dropping 2 hours, 37 minutes and 5 seconds came as the two men battled the cold, gravity and themselves on October 12. The ascent up El Capitan, specifically the nose route, would take normal climbers three full days of climbing, resting and climbing again to complete. Hans and Yuji, two of the best speed-climbers in the entire world, managed to pack all of that climbing with none of that resting and demolish their record by a full 6 minutes.
Check out the video of some of their climb, it's not to be missed and a great indication of just how talented both of these men really are. Congrats Hans, congrats Yuji!
(Image: Michael Maloney/The Chronicle)
Labels: El Capitan, Hans Florine, New Record, The Nose, Yosemite
¶ Monday, October 20, 2008 0 Comments
Friday, July 18, 2008
Hans Florine & Yuji Hirayama Recapture Speed Record
In yet another daring sprint up the formidable El Capitan, Touchstone member/investor Hans Florine teamed up with Yuji Harayama to reclaim the speed record they set together in 2002 that the Huber brothers beat by 3 minutes in June of 2007. You can read all about their 2 hour, 43 minute and 33 second ascent in the Chronicle and see some photos of the amazing duo.
If my calculations are correct, this is the 10th time Hans has set the speed record for climbing the Nose! More information on this story can also be found at speedclimb.com. Congratulations Hans - you've made the Touchstone community proud!
In yet another daring sprint up the formidable El Capitan, Touchstone member/investor Hans Florine teamed up with Yuji Harayama to reclaim the speed record they set together in 2002 that the Huber brothers beat by 3 minutes in June of 2007. You can read all about their 2 hour, 43 minute and 33 second ascent in the Chronicle and see some photos of the amazing duo.
If my calculations are correct, this is the 10th time Hans has set the speed record for climbing the Nose! More information on this story can also be found at speedclimb.com. Congratulations Hans - you've made the Touchstone community proud!
Labels: climbing, El Capitan, Hans Florine, members, New Record, The Nose
¶ Friday, July 18, 2008 0 Comments
Thursday, April 17, 2008
Project Bandaloop Premieres 'Interiors'
Project Bandaloop, widely recognized as one of the leading aerial and vertical dance companies in the country, has announced its 2008 home season. The company, under Artistic Director Amelia Rudolph, will present the California premiere of “Interiors,” at San Francisco’s Cowell Theater at Fort Mason Center, Thursday, April 17 through Sunday, April 20.
In conjunction with the performances, on Saturday, April 19, Project Bandaloop presents “The Dance of the Vertical,” a slide show and talk with world-famous climbers Steve Schneider and Hans Florine at 6:45 pm, prior to the 8 pm curtain.
In addition, the 2 pm Sunday matinee will be geared toward younger audiences and families. Following the performance, there will be an interactive “Show and Tell” with Project Bandaloop performers, led by founder Amelia Rudolph.
On April 17, there will be an Opening Night Gala as a benefit for the company with a reception after the performance. The $75 ticket will include the performance and a post-show reception with premium wines, a buffet of hors d’oeuvres and a chance to meet and talk with artistic director Amelia Rudolph and the talented performers of Project Bandaloop!
Project Bandaloop’s performances are Thursday, Friday and Saturday, April 17-19 at 8pm and Sunday, April 20 at 2pm and 7pm at the Cowell Theater at Fort Mason Center. Tickets are $25 per person; children 12 and under are $15 and are available through the Fort Mason Foundation Box Office, 415-345-7575 or online at www.fortmason.org/boxoffice. For more information on Project Bandaloop, visit the website at www.projectbandaloop.org.
Project Bandaloop, widely recognized as one of the leading aerial and vertical dance companies in the country, has announced its 2008 home season. The company, under Artistic Director Amelia Rudolph, will present the California premiere of “Interiors,” at San Francisco’s Cowell Theater at Fort Mason Center, Thursday, April 17 through Sunday, April 20.
In conjunction with the performances, on Saturday, April 19, Project Bandaloop presents “The Dance of the Vertical,” a slide show and talk with world-famous climbers Steve Schneider and Hans Florine at 6:45 pm, prior to the 8 pm curtain.
In addition, the 2 pm Sunday matinee will be geared toward younger audiences and families. Following the performance, there will be an interactive “Show and Tell” with Project Bandaloop performers, led by founder Amelia Rudolph.
On April 17, there will be an Opening Night Gala as a benefit for the company with a reception after the performance. The $75 ticket will include the performance and a post-show reception with premium wines, a buffet of hors d’oeuvres and a chance to meet and talk with artistic director Amelia Rudolph and the talented performers of Project Bandaloop!
Project Bandaloop’s performances are Thursday, Friday and Saturday, April 17-19 at 8pm and Sunday, April 20 at 2pm and 7pm at the Cowell Theater at Fort Mason Center. Tickets are $25 per person; children 12 and under are $15 and are available through the Fort Mason Foundation Box Office, 415-345-7575 or online at www.fortmason.org/boxoffice. For more information on Project Bandaloop, visit the website at www.projectbandaloop.org.
Labels: climbing, event, Hans Florine
¶ Thursday, April 17, 2008 0 Comments
Monday, December 10, 2007
The Nose: Really Really Fast
Hans Florine was able to hang out with the Hubers over a beer in June 2006 while they were working on the record. He also chatted with the Hubers, again over a beer, in SF after they got the record this past October 2007. In this webinar, Hans will talk about the way the Hubers tackled the route and go pitch by pitch how his attempts at the record went after talking to them. (Hans got a good go of 5:26 in November.)
Hans is joined by NIAD experts to go over the Huber's ascent and discuss strategies for improvement. Hans will also be inviting some Climbing Manufacturer experts to join in on the session.
Hans will take between 20 to 40 minutes to go over just how the Huber's climbed the route, how Yuji and Hans climbed the route (previous record of 2:48), how Hans just last month climbed it with Mark Melvin, and will discuss tools strategies and more. Then we'll open it up for a panel of experts to suggest things and YOUR input or questions. Maybe you have insight on a strategy on how better to go through the King Swing or you know of a tool we are not using that would help us move more effectively/faster through the route. Just listen or contribute. Recording from the webinar will be available afterwards.
Join Hans for this live Webinar on December 18th at 6pm, sign up now here: http://hansflorine.com/shop/webinar1.html
CHALK TALK about the Huber's Speed Record Ascentof THE NOSE, in 2:45:45. QnA on ways to improve.
LIVE WEBINAR
December 18th 6pm PST
December 18th 6pm PST
Hans Florine was able to hang out with the Hubers over a beer in June 2006 while they were working on the record. He also chatted with the Hubers, again over a beer, in SF after they got the record this past October 2007. In this webinar, Hans will talk about the way the Hubers tackled the route and go pitch by pitch how his attempts at the record went after talking to them. (Hans got a good go of 5:26 in November.)
Hans is joined by NIAD experts to go over the Huber's ascent and discuss strategies for improvement. Hans will also be inviting some Climbing Manufacturer experts to join in on the session.Hans will take between 20 to 40 minutes to go over just how the Huber's climbed the route, how Yuji and Hans climbed the route (previous record of 2:48), how Hans just last month climbed it with Mark Melvin, and will discuss tools strategies and more. Then we'll open it up for a panel of experts to suggest things and YOUR input or questions. Maybe you have insight on a strategy on how better to go through the King Swing or you know of a tool we are not using that would help us move more effectively/faster through the route. Just listen or contribute. Recording from the webinar will be available afterwards.
Join Hans for this live Webinar on December 18th at 6pm, sign up now here: http://hansflorine.com/shop/webinar1.html
Labels: climbing, event, Hans Florine, Mark Melvin, The Nose
¶ Monday, December 10, 2007 0 Comments
Thursday, October 18, 2007
Getting Outside
On September 11 after fixing lines, Touchstone members Humberto Marquez, Paul Hara and Ironworks member Bob Boggs, started climbing the Lurking Fear route on El Capitan. The were armed with lots of pre-climbing beta from Touchstone instructor and world class climber Hans Florine plus logistical support (Sherpa duty!) from gym members Margaret Hara, Leo Bates, Ironworks member Leo Burk, and others.
The trio was hoping to climb the route in 3 days with enough emergency provisions for 4. The climb actually took 6 continuous days, including the rappel down. "Bob got real sick the first day and had to go back down. After that, it was tough going. When Bob went down, so did our engineering brain" said Paul. "During the third day Humberto and I considered going down because we were moving so slowly and the top was so far away, but we decided to see how high we could get with our remaining provisions and energy".
The pair finally reached their goal of Thanksgiving Ledge at sunset of the 5th day. Humberto said "Its a beautiful, big ledge with a small cave with a sandy floor. By far the best bivy of the whole climb."
What's next for the pair? They're setting their sights on The Nose route of El Capitan. According to Humberto, "If we can climb a little bit faster, we just might make it!".
On September 11 after fixing lines, Touchstone members Humberto Marquez, Paul Hara and Ironworks member Bob Boggs, started climbing the Lurking Fear route on El Capitan. The were armed with lots of pre-climbing beta from Touchstone instructor and world class climber Hans Florine plus logistical support (Sherpa duty!) from gym members Margaret Hara, Leo Bates, Ironworks member Leo Burk, and others.The trio was hoping to climb the route in 3 days with enough emergency provisions for 4. The climb actually took 6 continuous days, including the rappel down. "Bob got real sick the first day and had to go back down. After that, it was tough going. When Bob went down, so did our engineering brain" said Paul. "During the third day Humberto and I considered going down because we were moving so slowly and the top was so far away, but we decided to see how high we could get with our remaining provisions and energy".
The pair finally reached their goal of Thanksgiving Ledge at sunset of the 5th day. Humberto said "Its a beautiful, big ledge with a small cave with a sandy floor. By far the best bivy of the whole climb."
What's next for the pair? They're setting their sights on The Nose route of El Capitan. According to Humberto, "If we can climb a little bit faster, we just might make it!".
Labels: Berkeley Ironworks, climbing, concord, Diablo Rock Gym, El Capitan, Hans Florine, members, The Nose
¶ Thursday, October 18, 2007 0 Comments
