Monday, April 11, 2011
A Tradical Nose Rack
Hans Florine knows the Nose. The Diablo Rock gym manager has made dozens of ascents including some blindingly fast 4 hour speed blasts of the long route on Yosemite’s El Capitan. With the spring weather finally clearing up in Yosemite and the Capitan looking prime, it’s time to get tradical! Check out the gear list from Hans and his great recommendations, then stop by your nearest Touchstone gym to stock up on some great gear.
Hans wrote out his rack-
1 # 3 Camalot
1 # 2 Camalot
2 # 1 Camalot
1 #.75 Camalot
1 #.5 Camalot
2 #.4 Camalots
2 #.3 Camalots
6 Black Diamond Stoppers
One cam hook, one etrier, 17 light weight Black Diamond quickdraws, 18 Neutrino biners, 4 locking carabiners, 6 long runners, a Petzl Gri Gri, and a set of Petzl ascenders.
Hans added that a solid trad rack for Yosemite would include a set of Omega Pacific link cams , 2 cordelettes- (5 to 7 mm cords in 18 to 22 ft in length to build anchors with), Metolious tricams (the middle four of the set of six are awesome for pin scars), a Petzl Reverso
“If you know you are going to be doing wide cracks then buy another #2 camalot, another #3 and two #4s,” said Hans. “There are very few cracks that are continuously wide and require more than this, on the occasion that they do, I recommend asking to borrow from friends. Ask me if you need some.”
“Lastly if you know a crack you are headed up is notorious for a certain size for a long distance than add to this rack accordingly or borrow. For the people
Hans wrote out his rack-
1 # 3 Camalot
1 # 2 Camalot
2 # 1 Camalot
1 #.75 Camalot
1 #.5 Camalot
2 #.4 Camalots
2 #.3 Camalots
6 Black Diamond Stoppers
One cam hook, one etrier, 17 light weight Black Diamond quickdraws, 18 Neutrino biners, 4 locking carabiners, 6 long runners, a Petzl Gri Gri, and a set of Petzl ascenders.
Hans added that a solid trad rack for Yosemite would include a set of Omega Pacific link cams , 2 cordelettes- (5 to 7 mm cords in 18 to 22 ft in length to build anchors with), Metolious tricams (the middle four of the set of six are awesome for pin scars), a Petzl Reverso
“If you know you are going to be doing wide cracks then buy another #2 camalot, another #3 and two #4s,” said Hans. “There are very few cracks that are continuously wide and require more than this, on the occasion that they do, I recommend asking to borrow from friends. Ask me if you need some.”
“Lastly if you know a crack you are headed up is notorious for a certain size for a long distance than add to this rack accordingly or borrow. For the people
Labels: camalots, Hans Florine, trad climbing gear
¶ Monday, April 11, 2011
