Touchstone Blog Archive
Friday, October 7, 2011
Touchstone Team on Half Dome
On Saturday evening, October 1st two bay area climbers hiked to the base of the Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome via the Death Slabs, thelow angle granite directly above Mirror Lake.
“Neither of us had been up the Death Slabs and after some of the stories I had heard about them I wasa bit intimated,” said Brian “Cuz” Hedrick of Berkeley. “One fixed line nearly killed me! The rock was a bit slick and the rope in question ran out of knots in it to hold on to. I slipped on a hold and slid 5 feet down to the last knot! I was 20 feet above a ledge, not attached to anything with a decently heavy pack on. Wigged me out before we even started climbing!”
The Death Slabs are in a serious rock fall zone and are extremely hazardous to hike in.
Ethan Pringle, a San Franciscan, and Cuz are notable figures in the bay area climbing community. Pringle, a Touchstone Athlete, is a world renowned sport climber with ascents of routes up to 5.15. Cuz, who works as a Touchstone route setter, is no slouch with ascents of the hardest problems in Bishop’s Buttermilk Boulders and at the bay area's Mortar Rock. However, the pair are far from seasoned trad veterans.
When asked what routes he climbed to prepare for the route, Pringle responded, “ Uhhh, the 13+ link up at Mission Cliffs? We really did nothing to prepare ourselves for the route, which was a bit of in issue.”
The two decided to pitch out the route, leading and following every pitch. On the harder sections of the grade VI climb, the second pulled on gear. In the difficult Zig Zags portion, the second jumared with the pack.
The view from the base of Half Dome is daunting.
They climbed with minimal gear, a small pack and only one rope. “Only having one rope was a little gripping because you're pretty much committed to the top no matter what, as there is no way to bail after a certain height,” said Pringle.
The pair made quick work of the lower sections of the route, climbing through the wandering slab pitches, across the Robbins Traverse and through the long series of chimneys. Things were going smoothly until they reached the difficult Zig Zags.
“I was getting ready to start jugging and cleaning the last of the Zig Zags when I hear Ethan yell some profanity and see a nice iPhone gleefully spinning towards the valley floor, “ said Cuz of the team’s only on route epic. “I supposed it didn't feel like taking the cables down. It wanted a....wireless descent!”
Unfortunately, the pair’s only topo was on Ethan’s phone. Route finding had been a challenge for them all day. Since neither had climbed the route, they weren’t sure where to go. At the top Zig Zag, Pringle took the direct variation instead of the easier corner out right, climbing 12d instead of 12a. “There was no chalk, no tic marks to tell you where the good spots were, and it was slick as hell from all the aid climbers (and the sun),” said Pringle. “But there was a ton of fixed gear, so much so that I didn't even clip it all.” Luckily, the pair were only four pitches from the summit and used their savy climbing skills to bring them to the top. Pringle managed to onsight the pitch freeing much of the route, except for some of the free variations lower. Hedrick free climbed the majority of the route as well.
The Northwest Face of Half Dome is marked in red
After approximately 14 hours on the wall, the pair topped out and returned to the base, where they spent the night. The next morning the two weary climbers took the “long but enjoyable hike” down to the Valley floor via the Mist Trail.
When asked if he had any more plans for big walls like El Capitan and Half Dome, Cuz said, “I'm probably going to start gearing up for bouldering instead. Much less commitment and fixed lines.”
About the climb Pringle said, “We had a freaken blast! I can't wait to spend a whole season in the valley sometime. I think it will broaden my climbing horizons.”
Congratulations to the team for getting tradical!
“Neither of us had been up the Death Slabs and after some of the stories I had heard about them I wasa bit intimated,” said Brian “Cuz” Hedrick of Berkeley. “One fixed line nearly killed me! The rock was a bit slick and the rope in question ran out of knots in it to hold on to. I slipped on a hold and slid 5 feet down to the last knot! I was 20 feet above a ledge, not attached to anything with a decently heavy pack on. Wigged me out before we even started climbing!”
The Death Slabs are in a serious rock fall zone and are extremely hazardous to hike in.
Ethan Pringle, a San Franciscan, and Cuz are notable figures in the bay area climbing community. Pringle, a Touchstone Athlete, is a world renowned sport climber with ascents of routes up to 5.15. Cuz, who works as a Touchstone route setter, is no slouch with ascents of the hardest problems in Bishop’s Buttermilk Boulders and at the bay area's Mortar Rock. However, the pair are far from seasoned trad veterans.
When asked what routes he climbed to prepare for the route, Pringle responded, “ Uhhh, the 13+ link up at Mission Cliffs? We really did nothing to prepare ourselves for the route, which was a bit of in issue.”
The two decided to pitch out the route, leading and following every pitch. On the harder sections of the grade VI climb, the second pulled on gear. In the difficult Zig Zags portion, the second jumared with the pack.
The view from the base of Half Dome is daunting.
They climbed with minimal gear, a small pack and only one rope. “Only having one rope was a little gripping because you're pretty much committed to the top no matter what, as there is no way to bail after a certain height,” said Pringle.
The pair made quick work of the lower sections of the route, climbing through the wandering slab pitches, across the Robbins Traverse and through the long series of chimneys. Things were going smoothly until they reached the difficult Zig Zags.
“I was getting ready to start jugging and cleaning the last of the Zig Zags when I hear Ethan yell some profanity and see a nice iPhone gleefully spinning towards the valley floor, “ said Cuz of the team’s only on route epic. “I supposed it didn't feel like taking the cables down. It wanted a....wireless descent!”
Unfortunately, the pair’s only topo was on Ethan’s phone. Route finding had been a challenge for them all day. Since neither had climbed the route, they weren’t sure where to go. At the top Zig Zag, Pringle took the direct variation instead of the easier corner out right, climbing 12d instead of 12a. “There was no chalk, no tic marks to tell you where the good spots were, and it was slick as hell from all the aid climbers (and the sun),” said Pringle. “But there was a ton of fixed gear, so much so that I didn't even clip it all.” Luckily, the pair were only four pitches from the summit and used their savy climbing skills to bring them to the top. Pringle managed to onsight the pitch freeing much of the route, except for some of the free variations lower. Hedrick free climbed the majority of the route as well.
The Northwest Face of Half Dome is marked in red
After approximately 14 hours on the wall, the pair topped out and returned to the base, where they spent the night. The next morning the two weary climbers took the “long but enjoyable hike” down to the Valley floor via the Mist Trail.
When asked if he had any more plans for big walls like El Capitan and Half Dome, Cuz said, “I'm probably going to start gearing up for bouldering instead. Much less commitment and fixed lines.”
About the climb Pringle said, “We had a freaken blast! I can't wait to spend a whole season in the valley sometime. I think it will broaden my climbing horizons.”
Congratulations to the team for getting tradical!
Labels: Brian Hedrick, Ethan Pringle, Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome
¶ Friday, October 07, 2011 1 Comments
Tuesday, May 10, 2011
Touchstone Climbers in the Limelight
Touchstone employees are some of the most motivated climbers around the bay area. From shoveling off boulder problems in the middle of Yosemite winters to driving across the country to send big wall free climbs, the Touchstone crew is stoker! A number of employees have been in the limelight recently.
Hans Florine, the Diablo Rock Gym manager, got mentioned in the National Geographic article about Yosemite for his super fast ascents of the Nose on El Capitan. He was also featured in a PowerBar ad in Outside magazine.
Touchstone's blogger and resident dirtbag climber, James Lucas made a recent trip to Zion National Park where he dispatched of Moonlight Buttress- a long 5.12d. Brittany Griffith wrote about James and their ascent of the formation at the Cleanest Line- Patagonia's blog site.
James on the 9th pitch of Moonlight Buttress (5.12d)
James's pies were also mentioned in the National Geographic article about Yosemite. He was one of the two climbers who brought "homemade apple pies" to a climber party. "First my pies are in Nat Geo. Next they'll be on the Food Network. Watch out Martha Stewart- I'm coming for you," said James.
Touchstone route setter and hipster rock star, Brian "Cuz" Hedrick made a recent ascent of the Kraken at Mortar Rock in the Berkeley hills. Wolter Byron, a bay area film maker, shot footage of the send and made a cool video. Get pysched on the local boulders and with Cuz's beta- you can fight the Kraken.
Hans Florine, the Diablo Rock Gym manager, got mentioned in the National Geographic article about Yosemite for his super fast ascents of the Nose on El Capitan. He was also featured in a PowerBar ad in Outside magazine.
Touchstone's blogger and resident dirtbag climber, James Lucas made a recent trip to Zion National Park where he dispatched of Moonlight Buttress- a long 5.12d. Brittany Griffith wrote about James and their ascent of the formation at the Cleanest Line- Patagonia's blog site.
James on the 9th pitch of Moonlight Buttress (5.12d)
James's pies were also mentioned in the National Geographic article about Yosemite. He was one of the two climbers who brought "homemade apple pies" to a climber party. "First my pies are in Nat Geo. Next they'll be on the Food Network. Watch out Martha Stewart- I'm coming for you," said James.
Touchstone route setter and hipster rock star, Brian "Cuz" Hedrick made a recent ascent of the Kraken at Mortar Rock in the Berkeley hills. Wolter Byron, a bay area film maker, shot footage of the send and made a cool video. Get pysched on the local boulders and with Cuz's beta- you can fight the Kraken.
The Kraken from ByronWolter on Vimeo.
Labels: Brian Hedrick, Hans Florine, James Lucas
¶ Tuesday, May 10, 2011 0 Comments
Friday, April 1, 2011
Touchstone Climber Crushes Mortar
Last week, Brian "Cuz" Hedrick, a 24 year old route setter at Touchstone Climbing, made the second ascent of the Impossible Wall Traverse at Berkeley's Mortar Rock. First established by Chris Sharma seven years ago, the V13 problem has bouted many of the strongest local climbers.
The hardest boulder problem within a 100 miles of the bay starts on an obvious jug in the middle of the face and traverses right into the Impossible Wall (v8). "It's big moves on bad holds," says Hedrick, who sent the line after working it seven days over two years.
"It's like Cresiano but better," says Ethan Pringle, a 24 year old professional climber from San Francisco, of Mortar Rock. One of the only boulders in the Berkeley hills, Mortar Rock hosts a number of problems, and eliminates. John Sherman, Scott Frye, and Nat Smale began bouldering in the area in 1976, establishing the classic Nat's Traverse (V8) and developing the V-scale at the urban crag.
A line linking Nat's to the Impossible Wall traverse remains a 5.15/V14 project for future Mortar Rock addicts. Hedrick maintains that he won't be heading back to Mortar anytime soon.
There's been more Mortar action as well. Check out Alton Richardson's new Sunshine Eliminate (v9).
With the good weather, Mortar will be great. Head up there and check it out!
The hardest boulder problem within a 100 miles of the bay starts on an obvious jug in the middle of the face and traverses right into the Impossible Wall (v8). "It's big moves on bad holds," says Hedrick, who sent the line after working it seven days over two years.
"It's like Cresiano but better," says Ethan Pringle, a 24 year old professional climber from San Francisco, of Mortar Rock. One of the only boulders in the Berkeley hills, Mortar Rock hosts a number of problems, and eliminates. John Sherman, Scott Frye, and Nat Smale began bouldering in the area in 1976, establishing the classic Nat's Traverse (V8) and developing the V-scale at the urban crag.
A line linking Nat's to the Impossible Wall traverse remains a 5.15/V14 project for future Mortar Rock addicts. Hedrick maintains that he won't be heading back to Mortar anytime soon.
The Impossible Traverse from ByronWolter on Vimeo.
There's been more Mortar action as well. Check out Alton Richardson's new Sunshine Eliminate (v9).
Sunshine Eliminate (V9) from Alton Richardson on Vimeo.
With the good weather, Mortar will be great. Head up there and check it out!
Labels: Brian Hedrick, Impossible Wall, Mortar Rock
¶ Friday, April 01, 2011 0 Comments
Tuesday, March 15, 2011
Bishop Bouldering Video: Wolter Byron's Videos
Wolter Byron, a 27 year old Marin resident, put together this awesome video of some bay area crushers climbing out in Bishop.
Check out Spencer Tang-Smith sending Iron Fly, Wolter Byron sticking it on High Plains Drifeer, and Touchstone route setter Brian "Cuz" Hedrick killing it on the Vhard problems out there.
Here's another one of Byron's quick hits with Cuz sending the Iron Monkey traverse and trying the Impossible Traverse up at Mortar.
Check out Spencer Tang-Smith sending Iron Fly, Wolter Byron sticking it on High Plains Drifeer, and Touchstone route setter Brian "Cuz" Hedrick killing it on the Vhard problems out there.
The Fall from ByronWolter on Vimeo.
Here's another one of Byron's quick hits with Cuz sending the Iron Monkey traverse and trying the Impossible Traverse up at Mortar.
Iron Monkey and the Impossible Traverse from ByronWolter on Vimeo.
Labels: Brian Hedrick, Wolter Byron
¶ Tuesday, March 15, 2011 0 Comments
Friday, February 5, 2010
Cuz Crushes: Touchstone Routesetter Hikes Bishop Testpieces
Hailing from Charlotte NC, Cuz, Brian Hedrick, moved to the bay area with the intentions of working for three weeks on a boat. Instead of becoming a mariner, Cuz joined the Touchstone Route setting team, taking his experience as a setter at Charlotte's Inner Peaks to a larger arena. All the time climbing and training in the gym has paid off for Cuz who has had a banner Bishop season this year, completing Buttermilker Stand (V12), The Mystery (V12), Haroun and the Sea of Stories(V11/12), Michael Caine SDS (V12), flashing Acid Wash (v10), and crushing a number of other double digit problems. The 23 year old strong man took some time off from his hectic schedule of destroying the boulders to answer a few questions.
Cuz crushing Haroun and the Sea of Stories (v12)
How did you start climbing?
I've been climbing for going on 11 years. I started out at a small climbing gym in NC called Inner Peaks. My first trip into the gym was an end of the year Team Party for my baseball team. After the first day of climbing, My dad got my little brother and I a membership.
Where did you get the nickname Cuz?
It's a terrible story....
As with any job, especially with one with as much ego associated it as route setter, there is a significant harassment period for newcomers. A bit of innocent heckling is to be expected. I was no exception. For the first month, the rest of the crew was trying to come up with a good insignia for me instead of just my initials, BH.
One day while setting the Yosemite Wall at Mission Cliffs, a fellow route setter Dave Wallach decided to get stuck on the idea that EVERYONE from the South calls each other Cuz. He was persistent while using a terrible interpretation of the vernaculars of the South. The rest of the crew got into it, naturally. It stuck and the rest is history. Now it's rare for anyone to even know my real name!
How did you get so strong?
The right application of motivation is the key to climbing harder in my opinion. I've never worked on finger strength and have only trained my core. Progressing through climbing is more about the experience you obtain from many ascents of all grades. You will never lose experience from climbing a problem or a route just because it's not the grade you think you can climb. Be motivated for the number but more importantly, inspired by the line.
What are you climbing goals?
My climbing goals for the year are to climb consistent V13 and to climb at least one V14. I want to rope climb 5.14b or harder and I want to up my trad climbing abilities and get a few ascents of both El Cap and Half Dome. I want to try and free Half Dome's Regular Route as well.
Cuz crushing Haroun and the Sea of Stories (v12)
How did you start climbing?
I've been climbing for going on 11 years. I started out at a small climbing gym in NC called Inner Peaks. My first trip into the gym was an end of the year Team Party for my baseball team. After the first day of climbing, My dad got my little brother and I a membership.
Where did you get the nickname Cuz?
It's a terrible story....
As with any job, especially with one with as much ego associated it as route setter, there is a significant harassment period for newcomers. A bit of innocent heckling is to be expected. I was no exception. For the first month, the rest of the crew was trying to come up with a good insignia for me instead of just my initials, BH.
One day while setting the Yosemite Wall at Mission Cliffs, a fellow route setter Dave Wallach decided to get stuck on the idea that EVERYONE from the South calls each other Cuz. He was persistent while using a terrible interpretation of the vernaculars of the South. The rest of the crew got into it, naturally. It stuck and the rest is history. Now it's rare for anyone to even know my real name!
How did you get so strong?
The right application of motivation is the key to climbing harder in my opinion. I've never worked on finger strength and have only trained my core. Progressing through climbing is more about the experience you obtain from many ascents of all grades. You will never lose experience from climbing a problem or a route just because it's not the grade you think you can climb. Be motivated for the number but more importantly, inspired by the line.
What are you climbing goals?
My climbing goals for the year are to climb consistent V13 and to climb at least one V14. I want to rope climb 5.14b or harder and I want to up my trad climbing abilities and get a few ascents of both El Cap and Half Dome. I want to try and free Half Dome's Regular Route as well.
Labels: Brian Hedrick, Buttermilker, Haroun and the Sea of Stories
¶ Friday, February 05, 2010 0 Comments
Saturday, December 5, 2009
Bishop Bouldering with Brian Hedrick
Brian Hedrick, aka Cuz, has been setting routes and problems at the Touchstone gyms for a number since August of 2006. The boulderer's pysched hasn't dissipated since he began setting. After long hours establishing new problems, Cuz can be found cranking out hard eliminates in the Wave at Berkeley Ironworks. When he's not busy crushing double digit V-sickness, Cuz can be found enjoying great California activities like the Gilroy Garlic Festival! Check out the video Rebecca Taggart made of him hiking the Checkerboard boulder in Bishop's Buttermilks. Keep cranking Cuz!
Untitled from rebecca taggart on Vimeo.
Labels: Berkeley Ironworks, Brian Hedrick, Checkerboard
¶ Saturday, December 05, 2009 0 Comments
