A Few From Font: Ethan Pringle Climbing In France
For nearly two months, San Francisco climber and Touchstone athlete, Ethan Pringle posted up in France’s Fontainebleau.The immense amount of sandstone provides world class bouldering.The smooth rock, the varying weather, and everything in between, make Font a challenging place to climb.
Pringle talked a little about his trip onhis blog, saying, “The style of climbing here is hard for me. It is much different than somewhere like Rocklands or Hueco where it’s more pulling and dynamic moves on actual holds… Here, the key to sending problems at your limit is 1) having good beta, 2) having good conditions and 3) having the nuances and intricacies of each move down to a science.”
Though Pringle was plagued with bad conditions, he managed to learn some of the French subtleties.He discovered that, “sometimes something as bringing your body up higher without moving your feet to oppose a hold (Partage) or pointing your toe down while you’re heel hooking (Karma) can make the difference.”
Pringle's climbing adventures will continue as he heads back to the US to do some more great climbing in the states. Check out this cool video of Pringle and a few other climbers taking on some Font classics.
Huecos Rancheros: Pringle on Sol Adunamentum
Huecos Rancheros, a new movie filmed by Owen Bissel and edited by Byron Wolter, is coming out in a month. The 30 minute film features classic problems from Hueco, everything from v0 fun fests to v13 horror shows.
The movie features Mark Heal, Touchstone athlete Ethan Pringle and a number of other climbers.
Pringle and Heal headed out to Hueco for two weeks at the end of January last year.“It's some of the best and most diverse bouldering in the states!” said Pringle about the rock in Texas. “There is a little bit of every style of climbing there- roof, slab, even a few cracks. Every angle of wall, every type of grip. And for the most part the weather is splitter in late fall-early spring. Even though it's a pretty small area, there are so many corridors and boulders and roofs the there's still a load of potential! I know about a few lines that I'd really like to go back and have a crack on.”
One of the cooler problems that Pringle did there was Sol Adunamentum.
Nick Duttle established the low start to the Fern Roof, Sol Adunamentum, a few years ago.The North Mountain test piece suited Pringle well. “I really like roof climbing,” said Pringle. “I was psyched to piece it together so quickly as well.”
Touchstone Team on Half Dome
On Saturday evening, October 1st two bay area climbers hiked to the base of the Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome via the Death Slabs, thelow angle granite directly above Mirror Lake.
“Neither of us had been up the Death Slabs and after some of the stories I had heard about them I wasa bit intimated,” said Brian “Cuz” Hedrick of Berkeley. “One fixed line nearly killed me! The rock was a bit slick and the rope in question ran out of knots in it to hold on to. I slipped on a hold and slid 5 feet down to the last knot! I was 20 feet above a ledge, not attached to anything with a decently heavy pack on. Wigged me out before we even started climbing!”
The Death Slabs are in a serious rock fall zone and are extremely hazardous to hike in.
Ethan Pringle, a San Franciscan, and Cuz are notable figures in the bay area climbing community. Pringle, a Touchstone Athlete, is a world renowned sport climber with ascents of routes up to 5.15. Cuz, who works as a Touchstone route setter, is no slouch with ascents of the hardest problems in Bishop’s Buttermilk Boulders and at the bay area's Mortar Rock. However, the pair are far from seasoned trad veterans.
When asked what routes he climbed to prepare for the route, Pringle responded, “ Uhhh, the 13+ link up at Mission Cliffs? We really did nothing to prepare ourselves for the route, which was a bit of in issue.”
The two decided to pitch out the route, leading and following every pitch. On the harder sections of the grade VI climb, the second pulled on gear. In the difficult Zig Zags portion, the second jumared with the pack.
The view from the base of Half Dome is daunting.
They climbed with minimal gear, a small pack and only one rope. “Only having one rope was a little gripping because you're pretty much committed to the top no matter what, as there is no way to bail after a certain height,” said Pringle.
The pair made quick work of the lower sections of the route, climbing through the wandering slab pitches, across the Robbins Traverse and through the long series of chimneys. Things were going smoothly until they reached the difficult Zig Zags.
“I was getting ready to start jugging and cleaning the last of the Zig Zags when I hear Ethan yell some profanity and see a nice iPhone gleefully spinning towards the valley floor, “ said Cuz of the team’s only on route epic. “I supposed it didn't feel like taking the cables down. It wanted a....wireless descent!”
Unfortunately, the pair’s only topo was on Ethan’s phone. Route finding had been a challenge for them all day. Since neither had climbed the route, they weren’t sure where to go. At the top Zig Zag, Pringle took the direct variation instead of the easier corner out right, climbing 12d instead of 12a. “There was no chalk, no tic marks to tell you where the good spots were, and it was slick as hell from all the aid climbers (and the sun),” said Pringle. “But there was a ton of fixed gear, so much so that I didn't even clip it all.” Luckily, the pair were only four pitches from the summit and used their savy climbing skills to bring them to the top. Pringle managed to onsight the pitch freeing much of the route, except for some of the free variations lower. Hedrick free climbed the majority of the route as well.
The Northwest Face of Half Dome is marked in red
After approximately 14 hours on the wall, the pair topped out and returned to the base, where they spent the night. The next morning the two weary climbers took the “long but enjoyable hike” down to the Valley floor via the Mist Trail.
When asked if he had any more plans for big walls like El Capitan and Half Dome, Cuz said, “I'm probably going to start gearing up for bouldering instead. Much less commitment and fixed lines.”
About the climb Pringle said, “We had a freaken blast! I can't wait to spend a whole season in the valley sometime. I think it will broaden my climbing horizons.”
Pringle On The Hunt in South Africa's Rocklands
For the past month, Touchstone sponsored rock climber Ethan Pringle has been killing it in South Africa’s Rocklands. Pringle has put down 10 V12 and harder boulder problems including Fred Nicole’s Mooiste Maise (v13) and making a flash of Black Shadow (v12). Pringle talked a little bit about his trip, about the climbing and about what it’s like in Rocklands.
I actually I made a list of all the climbs I wanted to try and/or do before I leave back when I first arrived after I had been to most of the areas and I managed to finish almost all of them which I'm pretty psyched on, since it was a rather long list. There are still a few I haven't finished that I may have to come back to finish off next year. Airstar (V13), 30's the New 20 (V12/14), and Sky (V14) are the coolest ones I wanted to do that I haven't managed to complete. I would really like to finish Sky because it's one of the nicest boulder problems I've ever seen, I'm sort of close to it and I've invested 4 days into it already.
The best part of South Africa is Rocklands if you have a one track mind like I do, but it's a beautiful country that would take a lifetime to fully enjoy. Capetown is pretty similar in a lot of ways to SF. There's some of the world's best cold water surf breaks here in SA!
Pringle sending Leap of Faith
We went to a Venison buffet at the restaurant in Clan William a few weeks ago and they had an abundance of venison products from a range of species of Antelope. It was delicious, and filling. There were probably like 60 climbers there from maybe 10 different countries. That's been one of the best parts of the trip- so many fun people from all over! There's a bar at the campground that goes off on weekends... that place is dangerous.
We haven't seen any big cats here but if I do see a lion, I don't think my first instinct will be to attack it. If I come back next year though, its safari time. I'm also going to bring my surfboard.
Pringle Bolts New Route in Ceuse
On an international tour of climbing destinations, Touchstone athlete and hardman rock climber, Ethan Pringle began a new phase in his climbing career. Pringle picked up the Bosch and started establishing a new route.
Pringle dangles from hooks and tries to pull into the wall to find the best place to put the next bolt.
First ascents are far from easy work and there are many difficulties along the way. “My biggest fear with bolting the line was that there would be a blank section where the moves just wouldn't go,” Pringle said about the difficult line, which resides meters away from the classic 5.15 Biographie in Ceuse, France. “Now that I've looked at the whole route, I know there are enough holds to make it to the top, but just barely.”
Drilling new holes isn't easy. pushing a heavy rock drill into the hard limestoe to make a bolt hole requires some intense labor. Just look at Pringle's face! GRRRR!
Pringle’s line begins with 40 feet of right traversing 5.13c moves into a crack, which tapers out into some hard moves on incut pockets. After the pockets, there’s a big move to a slopey sidepull followed by another big move to a shallow three finger pocket. The rest involves about 40 feet of 5.14- climbing on pockets with no real rest and another difficult boulder problem. “The hardest moves look to be at the halfway mark. It's hard to tell how hard the moves are gonna be without actually trying them but I can tell just by looking at the route where the hard sections are.”
The rock dust needs to be blown out before a bolt can be placed in the hole.
Pringle described the bolting process saying, “It’s grueling work! On an almost featureless, 20-30 degree overhung wall, it's really hard to find hook placements solid enough to drill the holes from.” Drilling requires some gymnastics and a bit of fearlessness. “You hang from the hook, get into the best position you can then tense your entire body as you drill so you don't apply too much sudden pressure to the hook to make it pop off. As a result of all this sitting in your harness, swinging around, tensing and drilling, your body gets super sore and you almost always need a rest day afterward. It's also really mentally taxing because you have to think long and hard about where you want the bolts to go. You don't want to drill unnecessary holes or move bolts after you've placed them, which is sometimes unavoidable.”
Pringle hammers in a new bolt and hanger. It's almost ready to be climbed on.
On Pringle’s second day of bolting, a Portugese couple came to the crag with their 8 year old son, who is a huge Chris Sharma fan. “As a consolation prize he got to meet me, get an autograph, and have the pleasure of watching his dad swing me into the wall to find a decent enough hook placement to drill a couple of the bolts off of.”
Now that the bolting is done it's time to climb. Pringle met up with some locals and they crushed.
Another Swedish couple and their son came to the base and watched Ethan while he bolted. Milton, the couple’s 7 year old son, made a plague for the climb.
Everyone knows that once you bolt a route people want autographs. Here's Pringle being generous with his fame.
“It’s almost 2:30.” Pringle wrote. “Today is sort of rainy and cold…drops are starting to fall again. I'm trying to muster the motivation to hike up to the cliff and finish bolting. I only have one more bolt to place, then one more anchor bolt, then I'm finished. I would have finished the other day but the drill that I borrowed has a really old battery that dies after like ten holes.”
Recounting the experience, Pringle said, “This is what happens when you’re by yourself in Ceuse- bolting 5.15b, eating lots of cookies and meeting lots of new and interesting people! Not a bad thing I'm sure.”
Francerland- Climbing Over the Pond with Ethan Pringle
Touchstone athlete, Ethan Pringle headed over to Europe to do some rock climbing a few months ago. His travels have taken him to France, Switzerland, and now Spain. He's been trying to get after some rock climbing but the weather isn't always perfect across the pond. Matt Wilder and Ethan put together a video of their trip in Switzerland/France. Check out the cool clips and read more about Ethan's Switzerland travels on his blog.
Pringle Gets Muy Tranquillo: Touchstone Climber Goes to Spain
For the past two weeks, hardcore rock jock and Touchstone climber Ethan Pringle has been climbing on the amazing limestone of Spain.
“The mode here has been muy tranquillo,” said Pringle.
Pringle flew over to Spain, where he met with hardcore sport climber and ex-pat Chris Sharma. The pair settled into Sharma’s crag side home of Oliana, the second largest town in the comarca of the Alt Urgell in Catalonia Spain. Chris and Ethan, along with Chris’ lady friend Dalia, have been climbing in town. “We’ve only gone to Oliana but even on the ‘hot’ days (which are nothing like most days at Jail House past 2 pm) it gets nice and cold and breezy as soon as the sun goes behind the cliff which happens around 3 pm this time of year,” wrote Pringle on his blog. “Because of the late hour in which the cliff goes into the shade we’ve been getting really late starts- waking up around 10, leaving for the cliff around 11 and starting the warm-up around noon- 1pm.”
The Spanish town where Ethan is staying.
Pringle described the amazing climbing as a mini-Ceuse France. “Oliana has a blue and tan streaked limestone wall that averages about 120 feet in length with blockier (read: chossier) rock near the bottom and cleaner tufaed and pocketed, hyper-textured rock up higher. Most of the routes are endurance and power-endurance mega-thons with technical and powerful cruxes thoughout and good rests in between. A sportclimbers dream!”
Chris at the house where Ethan stayed.
Even with the late start and the easy days, Pringle has been getting after it, onsighting 5.13b, sending a 13d second try, and working on some 5.14+/5.15 routes.
Pringle nearly fired the Oliana tufa dream climb Humildes pa casa (Humble Go Home 8c), falling at the last bolt. “I failed to register the last tufa out left and tried to muscle up the single, slithering tufa that snaked away from me when I was too pumped to lift my arms.” Chris summed it up perfectly, telling Ethan,” Bummer dude, you had tufa vision.”
Ethan getting pumped off a tufa super route.
Pringle has been climbing with the heavy hitters. Sharma is uber strong as are visiting climbers like Ramon Julian. “There euro comp climbers are… impressive, to say the least,” wrote Pringle. “!Holy mierda! Have you heard that Adam Ondra onsighted two 8c+s, an 8c and an 8b+, wrestled an alligator and saved a baby from a burning house all in two days?!?
Pringle commented, “All these super-human climbers make me want to train for six months loose 15 lbs eating only vegetables and white meat and running a marathon every day… but lets be realistic, that’s not going to happen. I love Nutella and peanut butter and avocado (not necessarily not all together).”
Ethan going no hands
Ethan just left Spain for two weeks to meet up with Matt Wilder and Paul Robinson for some bouldering in Switzerland. He’ll return to Spain soon after that to climb a la muerte.
Pringle Vs. The Dumpling of All Evil: A China Dispatch
On November 21, Touchstone sponsored athlete, Ethan Pringle arrived in China and within the first few weeks managed to get food poisoning, make an epic bicycle ride across the country, and send the hardest route in China. Besides dispatching the third ascent of Chris Sharma’s Spicy Noodle (5.14c), Ethan also ticked French Gangsta (5.14b) and flashed both Thunder (5.14a) and Sea of Tranquility (5.13d). Ethan's trip has been more than just sending hard routes though.
Ethan has worked hard to assimilate into Chinese culture. “I’m trying to learn a manageable amount of Chinese words and phrases but so far trying to communicate with anyone who doesn’t know English has been impossible. Today I learned the numbers one through ten. I think if you know those you can pretty much convey any number up to 99,” Ethan said. Luckily, Ethan’s been able to order food.
On the ub class (Pringle terminology for uber classic) Sea of Tranquility, Ethan fought through the difficulties of the 5.13 initial section, he destroyed the V6 boulder problem crux, and soon found his way to the anchors. Ecstatic about this difficult flash, he grabbed an enormous 60 pound flake above the anchors to give a solid fist pump and hooray. The flake came off and rocketed towards the ground. The rock nearly took out the two Chinese women selling cold drinks and sodas at the base. Ethan said, “I guess I need to take it easy on the oatmeal in the morning!?!”
Pringle’s been working off the weight though. One day, he attempted to ride to White Mountain alone. “Have you ever done a 50K on a commuter hybrid bike with a slightly squishy back tire and a 30 pound backpack on your back, in a country in which you can’t communicate with anyone to ask for directions?” Pringle shared some great insight about his heinous bike ride. “Well, if it’s on your bucket list, do yourself a favor and cross it off.”
Ethan's pain on wheels.
One of the highlights of the trip to date is Ethan’s first new bolt. Ethan pulled out the Bosch and drilled a new bolt to replace an existing one in an already established 5.13 route.
This rest on the route French Gangster is known as the Holiday Inn- "Cause that's where all the G's hang" said Pringle.
Pringle has a few days left on his excursion in China. At the top of his tick list is an unsent Sharma project known as Dumpling of All Evil. Stayed tuned as Pringle fights against the famed Dumpling.
How to Grab the Golden Ticket: Pringle Talks Redpointing
On Saturday November 5th, Ethan Pringle redpointed The Golden Ticket (5.14d) at the Red River Gorge’s Chocolate Factory . The all natural sandstone route features pockets and crimps on a steep wall. “The line is so inspiring and the movement is really incredible,” Pringle said. “I’d just like to say that the Golden Ticket is maybe the second best route of its grade maybe behind Biography.” To climb such a difficult route, Pringle employed a number of different tactics. Pringle’s techniques are applicable to any project- from the gym to the boulders to free El Capitan routes.
Pringle at the anchors of the Golden Ticket
Pringle’s path to his redpoint was a long way in coming. “When I first got on the Golden Ticket, it felt nearly impossible,” said Pringle. Pringle spent his initial efforts figuring out the moves on the route and then linking them into longer sections between hangs. The crux involves a V9 boulder problem with an accuracy dependent deadpoint to a hidden pocket. Higher on the route, there’s another V9 or V10 red-point crux which spit Ethan off a number of times. To climb high on the route, Pringle needed to maximize his efficiency through the difficult deadpoint so he could tackle the hard redpoint crux with a lot of energy. On his fourth try, Pringle climbed the entire route with one hang. On his fifth try, he managed to make it well into the red-point crux. Pringle’s next few efforts saw marginal gains though. The small and abrasive holds worked his fingers. The temperature and humidity affected his climbing. P
ringle analyzed each of the factors. “I realized I needed to start warming up better before getting on the Golden Ticket,” Pringle said. Warming up the muscles is an integral part of climbing hard. Trying to achieve maximum performance out of muscles without sufficient warming up can result in a “flash pump”, a condition where the forearms are filled with lactic acid. Pringle realized his need to avoid this condition so he could maximize his energy to tackle the difficult climbing near the end. “ I also realized that the temperature of the wall and the air mattered a lot- too hot and my skin would slide off the terrible crux holds, but too cold and my hands would numb out and I'd over-grip, get pumped and fall. The temps would need to be just right.” Optimal performance is often condition dependent. Waiting for a weather window is one of the most difficult parts of rock climbing and affects everyone from boulderers to alpinists.
The clouds drizzled on November 5th. It was a dismal start to the day. Pringle knew better than to let the morning weather to affect his psyche. “That would mean that the wall would be cool instead of blazing in the sun like it normally does from 11:30-5pm.” Pringle started late and arrived at the Chocolate Factory parking lot to cold temps and little humidity. Derek, his friend and climbing partner, noted the “ideal” conditions that occur at the Red River Gorge saying, “Where else can you go sport climbing and say that the conditions are prime while you’re walking through puddles on the way to the crag?” Though conditions were not perfect for Pringle they were better than they had been. Pringle kept a cool head approaching the route. Though he was nervous, he tried not to let it get to him. Pringle suspected he wouldn’t send but felt pressure to perform the route so it could be documented by his filmmaker friend. Pringle didn’t let his nervousness affect his performance though and after a solid warm up to make sure he wouldn’t get pumped, he headed to the route.
On the day he sent, the route felt easy for him. His muscle memory helped him sprint to the top crux. “Every move felt easier than it had on earlier tries, my skin on my fingertips felt nice and tacky, and I breezed through the crux easier than I had on previous attempts like I had just hung on the draw below the crux. I grabbed the finish hold, gave some celebratory shouts of victory, and clipped the anchors, psyched to have finished such an amazing route, and relieved that it didn't take any longer. “
Pringle noted the psychological feelings behind completing a project. “Finishing a hard project, especially one that ranks amongst the best and hardest you've ever climbed, is always the most satisfying. You get this elation that washes over you for a short time- you glow. “ Pringle finished with a strong point about projects and how to look for something new. “But then at some point, sometimes all too quickly, your satisfaction fades and you need a new project- a harder one, a prettier one, and you hope it won't take you too, too long.”
On the Road with Ethan Pringle
Touchstone athlete and rad rock jock, sent an update about his whereabouts recently. After winning the Nor' Easter climbing comp, Ethan flew to Las Vegas, where Tungsten, Ethan’s brand new Element was waiting for him.
Ethan and Tungsten
He ventured to the sandstone outside of the casino lights and climbed in Red Rocks on the 5 mile loop with Jessie Martinez, a 22 year old Mission Cliffs climber who did her first lead climb in the sport bolted Black Corridor.
Jessie at the Black Corridor
Ethan’s leg was injured taking a large fall at the comp and when it healed, he made some trips to the 8,000 foot limestone crag of Mt. Charleston. “The high altitude (around 8,000 feet) and the bouldery and pumpy nature of the routes make it a perfect place to train and get strong, and the relatively short approach made it easy for me to hike up there,” said Pringle, who began climbing there at the age of 12.
Ethan climbing in Vegas
Ethan attempted Hasta La Vista (5.14c) at Mt. Charleston’s the Hood but didn’t have enough time to send the route that was redpointed by French uber-frau Liv Sansov for one of the hardest female ever. Leaving behind the project, Ethan made his way to meet friends at the Red River Gorge in Kentucky. “The rock here just seems to be formed for climbing. There are obvious lines of pockets and huecos and edges up striking overhangs that make your arms swell with blood and your head dizzy from the ridiculously steep angle. As always in an area like this with so many good routes, another phrase comes to mind- too much rock, not enough time!”
Most of Ethan’s time has been spent trying to nab the second ascent of the Golden Ticket on the Chocolate Factory wall. At 5.14c/d, the route features hard crimpy moves on a steep wall. The temps in the Red have been too warm for serious efforts and Ethan has had to bide his time exploring the wonders of Kentucky while the weather cools another 20 degrees.
The Golden Ticket at the Chocolate Factory
Derek Powell, a San Francisco climber, and Ethan recently checked out one of the great wonders of the Southeast- Beattyville, “Home of the Woolly Worm Festival.” Ethan described the scene there saying it was full of “morbidly obese people stuffing their faces with funnel cake and burgers, evangelical sounding dudes on megaphones trying to sell us kitchen knives, and booth after booth hocking useless chochkees and canned, pickled things and honey.” After stuffing his face with funnel cake, he checked out some of the Wooly Worms on their race track.
The Woolly Barn
For his stay, Ethan has been sharing a cabin with other San Francisco climbers Karl Augilar, Audrey Bodisco, Louise (Wheezy), Ross Broughton, Mick Pets, Stephanie Ko, and Debbie Wallach. Ethan added that the bay area crew is crushing. He exclaimed, “415 Represent! It’s a take over. Be afraid.”
The Red
Also taking over the area, there are more climbers at Miguel’s, the classic pizzeria at the Red, then ever. Ethan noted the change stating, “Now there are twice as many cars there on the weeknights than there were during the week five years ago! It’s a zoo… but that’s the price an area pays when the climbing is this good and the media swarms… All you can do is respect the land, try to be quiet and pick up some trash on your way out.”
Ethan will be killin it at the Red through the fall season and hoped the same for all the bay area climbers. “Stay safe people. May temps be in the low 50s, and may your fall projects succumb to your death grips! Al muerte!”
Welcome to Rocktober
October with its cool temps and stable weather is a perfect time to get out and start climbing for the bouldering season. For those that want to get pysched for rock climbing this fall, Ethan Pringle sent a video to the Touchstone Blog about the bouldering in Norway.
Touchstone Athlete Ethan Pringle Crushes the Nor'Easter
The Nor'easter, which ran from the 24th to the 26th of September at Loon Mountain in Lincoln New Hampshire, is a three day festival of sports, music, and conservation. Athletes from around the world showed up to crank down on the outdoor plastic comp for and a chance to climb in a Unified Bouldering Championships Pro Tour stop.
Two San Francisco climbers headed out to the comp. Natasha Barnes, taking a break from school, managed to crush her way into 5th place for women and Mission local and Touchstone athlete Ethan Pringle won the men's comp.
The competition was stiff for Ethan with the notorious powerhouse, and his old roommate, Daniel Woods at the comp. Ethan wrote about winning, "I was so happy and so surprised to have won. Daniel is just on such another level in terms of raw power. I was joking with everyone that we were all competing for second."
After topping out the second problem in finals, Ethan jumped from the top. Instead of rolling with the fall, he landed hard on his leg injuring his calf. Luckily, he was able to pull off a quick ascent of the third problem and win the comp.
John Evans photo
Petzl recently interviewed Ethan about his win at the Nor Easter and his return to hard climbing.
John Evans photo
Ethan prepared for the trip first by crushing the first TBS 6 comp at the Berkeley Ironworks and then heading out to the boulders of Erratica, near Kirkwood. Along with Gregor, Cuz, and Vitaly, Ethan toured the sporadically placed granite blocs flashing the classic Yeti V8, and then following Cuz for the third ascent of Party Animal V12. The crew then busted down to the high ball Welcome to the Future boulder problem in Tahoe and sessioned the tall face until the batteries in their headlamps started to die.
Ethan's planning on climbing at Mt. Clark for the next couple of days, hang out with friends in Las Vegas, and letting his leg heal perfectly so he can crush in the Red this fall.
Ethan Pringle's Beginnings
Long time San Francisco climber, Ethan Pringle will be adding some of his experiences to the blog. Check out his write up about finding his beginnings as a Touchstone climber.
The Beginnings:
I am often asked by people at the gym, at climbing areas, "How long have you been doing this?" I usually ballpark it. I knew that I started sometime around '95-96, but I didn't know exactly when. I wanted to know when I first walked into Mission Cliffs; it changed my life.
I became increasingly obsessed with discovering when I started climbing. One day, I asked at the front desk at Mission Cliffs . "Does it say on that computer screen when I became a member?"
"Sure, hold on a sec...” They responded. “It says you became a member on September 9th, 1997."
"But that can't be right!" I shouted in their face, cutting them off. Actually, I said, "Thanks for looking that up." I was just thinking the former. There was a time when I stopped climbing for several months near the beginning, and my parents must have canceled my membership and restarted it then but I knew I became a member of MC before then.
Either way, I had given up hope of ever finding out exactly when I started climbing until one day when I was cleaning out my brother's apartment. I was sorting through a random pile of things on a bookshelf that he left behind and came across my brothers old card!
Yay! I was elated to find this little piece of ancient plastic. I knew that my brother and I both got our memberships at the same time, so there it was, finally. October 18th, 1995. The search was over! I was so happy to be in touch with my roots that I ran to the gym for a good ole' plastic session
Austrailian Climbing with Ethan Pringle
San Francisco climber, Ethan Pringle, recently returned from a six week climbing trip to Australia, where he cranked out a number of hard sport routes. He had an injured shoulder for over a year and he was able to crank out some of his hardest climbs since his injury. One of the cool things he discovered was using a head camera to document his climbing. While climbing at the Taipan wall, he had the chance to borrow Johnathon Thesanga's GoPro head cam and take some still shots.
Check out the stills that he took.
Ethan also took some time to feed some of the local wildlife. You can read more about his exploits at his blog.
Touchstone Athlete- Ethan Pringle Update
July, 2009- Ethan Pringle sprawled out on a blanket in Dolores Park. He kept his left arm tucked tightly into his body as he worked on his tan in the summer sun.
Pringle, a Touchstone sponsored rock climber who began cranking at Mission Cliffs at the age of 8, has redpointed Realization (9a+/5.15a) in Ceuse, France, bouldered Dominated,a v13 in Camp 4, Yosemite Valley, Ca, and fired the Cobra Crack, a 5.14b/c traditional route in Squamish, British Columbia. Unfortunately, Pringle suffered a debilitating injury that has kept him away from the crag.
Earlier this year, while bouldering at Nationals in Boulder Colorado, Pringle felt a tear in his left shoulder. With a shooting pain that left him unable to climb, he consulted a few Bay area specialists. An MRI revealed a tear in the labrum of his left shoulder. After a few months of hoping his shoulder would heal, Pringle opted to have arthroscopic surgery. The doctors stitched his labrum back to the bone and now Pringle is waiting for the fusion to take hold.
Pringle is beginning light physical therapy for his injury and hopes to be climbing again by the fall. In his free time he has begun taking classes at City College, teaching an Advanced Lead Climbing Clinic, and bronzing in Dolores Park.
Keep on the lookout for his upcoming Mission Cliffs slide show.
A Final Reminder!
Just wanted to throw everyone out there a quick reminder that there are still a few spots open for this Sunday's once in a lifetime event at our Mission Cliffs Gym!
In case you've already forgotten, which is highly unlikely, Ethan Pringle is teaching an Advanced Lead Clinic THIS Sunday and we have a few spots open. Sign up as soon as possible, because the spots won't be open long!
Have a great weekend, and if you make it to the Clinic, have fun and we'll see you there!
Climbing Clip of the Week: Ethan Pringle
In honor of the upcoming "Advanced Lead Clinic" taught by the extremely talented Ethan Pringle this Sunday, we decided that this week, our "Climbing Clip of the Week" should be of the man himself.
So, for this weeks Climbing Clip, check out this gem we stumbled across on YouTube. It's Ethan Pringle on the second ascent of a 35 foot Kevin Jorgeson climb in Bishop, CA. It's amazing to see the technique and finesse.
At any rate, check it out, then if you're signed up for his Advanced Lead Clinic, we'll see you at Mission Cliffs on Sunday from 7:30 - 9:30pm.
Ethan Pringle Clinic at Mission Cliffs THIS Sunday Empty your calendars for this Sunday everyone, because there is an event upcoming that you will not want to miss. We are lucky enough to announce that starting this Sunday, March 8 we are going to be hosting a workshop by one of the top climbers in the entire world, Ethan Pringle.
That's right, exclusively at Mission Cliffs, we'll be having an "Advanced Lead Clinic" with Ethan Pringle. The Clinic will spread over 2 Sundays, March 8 and March 15 and will cover a great deal of information. Here's what you can expect:
"Been leading 5.11s for awhile? Want to make the jump to the next level? In a small, group setting, learn how to push yourself to climb smart from one of the world's best, ETHAN PRINGLE. Gain the mental skill set and confidence necessary to break into 5.12.
Day 1 Learn how to climb, clip and fall with confidence. Pushing your limit ABOVE the bolt.
Day 2 Route reading, improvisation and decision making. Knowing when to rest, and when to punch it. Most importantly, how to concentrate and relax.
Skill Level Solid 5.11 Lead Climber."
If you're interested, sign up now because space is limited to only 10 participants! It's going to cost $75 for all you Members out there, and $100 if you're not a member. Don't miss out!