Pringle Gets Muy Tranquillo: Touchstone Climber Goes to Spain
For the past two weeks, hardcore rock jock and Touchstone climber Ethan Pringle has been climbing on the amazing limestone of Spain.
“The mode here has been muy tranquillo,” said Pringle.
Pringle flew over to Spain, where he met with hardcore sport climber and ex-pat Chris Sharma. The pair settled into Sharma’s crag side home of Oliana, the second largest town in the comarca of the Alt Urgell in Catalonia Spain. Chris and Ethan, along with Chris’ lady friend Dalia, have been climbing in town. “We’ve only gone to Oliana but even on the ‘hot’ days (which are nothing like most days at Jail House past 2 pm) it gets nice and cold and breezy as soon as the sun goes behind the cliff which happens around 3 pm this time of year,” wrote Pringle on his blog. “Because of the late hour in which the cliff goes into the shade we’ve been getting really late starts- waking up around 10, leaving for the cliff around 11 and starting the warm-up around noon- 1pm.”
The Spanish town where Ethan is staying.
Pringle described the amazing climbing as a mini-Ceuse France. “Oliana has a blue and tan streaked limestone wall that averages about 120 feet in length with blockier (read: chossier) rock near the bottom and cleaner tufaed and pocketed, hyper-textured rock up higher. Most of the routes are endurance and power-endurance mega-thons with technical and powerful cruxes thoughout and good rests in between. A sportclimbers dream!”
Chris at the house where Ethan stayed.
Even with the late start and the easy days, Pringle has been getting after it, onsighting 5.13b, sending a 13d second try, and working on some 5.14+/5.15 routes.
Pringle nearly fired the Oliana tufa dream climb Humildes pa casa (Humble Go Home 8c), falling at the last bolt. “I failed to register the last tufa out left and tried to muscle up the single, slithering tufa that snaked away from me when I was too pumped to lift my arms.” Chris summed it up perfectly, telling Ethan,” Bummer dude, you had tufa vision.”
Ethan getting pumped off a tufa super route.
Pringle has been climbing with the heavy hitters. Sharma is uber strong as are visiting climbers like Ramon Julian. “There euro comp climbers are… impressive, to say the least,” wrote Pringle. “!Holy mierda! Have you heard that Adam Ondra onsighted two 8c+s, an 8c and an 8b+, wrestled an alligator and saved a baby from a burning house all in two days?!?
Pringle commented, “All these super-human climbers make me want to train for six months loose 15 lbs eating only vegetables and white meat and running a marathon every day… but lets be realistic, that’s not going to happen. I love Nutella and peanut butter and avocado (not necessarily not all together).”
Ethan going no hands
Ethan just left Spain for two weeks to meet up with Matt Wilder and Paul Robinson for some bouldering in Switzerland. He’ll return to Spain soon after that to climb a la muerte.
Holiday Shoe Demos at Touchstone!
This holiday season, Touchstone will be hosting a series of rock shoe demos at each of their gyms. La Sportiva, Five Ten, and Evolve shoes will be presenting a number of different shoes. A representative of the shoe company will help you find your size and the ideal shoe. Find a new shoe to make you crush that steep boulder problem, fight through the pumpy sport route, or get tradical on a long Yosemite crack climb. The demos will be from Dec 13 to the 16th. The best part is that shoes bought at the demos will be 20% off for members and 10% for non-members. All sales are final. The demos are:
There is no better shoe for high-end sport climbing, bouldering or competition climbing. The Hornet is built on a new state-of-the-art low volume last, with a downturned toe and an asymmetrical lacing system that allows for a perfect, custom fit. The upper is synthetic Cowdura™ with a 3-D Polytechnic™ coating that increases durability and abrasion resistance without adding weight. The Mystique™ outsole offers unparalleled grip, precision and durability.
Blackwing mens/women's
Think Dragon with a Velcro® closure. We made our latest state-of-the-art shoe even more user-friendly. The padded-tongue has a super-soft, fleecy microfiber lining. It wicks sweat and gives the top of your foot support and comfort, no matter what the angle. The new Blackwing fits like a glove, but slides on easily. The team shoe heel cup is extra snug and the Mystique™ outsole is specifically designed for ultimate friction on overhanging rock.
Anasazi lv
The Anasazi LV (Low Volume) excels on climbs of 5.11 and higher, both indoors and out. This performance climbing shoe is built on a women’s-specific last, and is designed for medium volume feet. The heel design offers an excellent, no-slip fit. Five Ten®’s proprietary “Power Toe” and a unique midsole provide the support for extremely technical climbs. Outsoles are Stealth® C4™ with extremely high friction, indoors and out.
Five Ten will also have the Arrowheads, the Coyote Velcro, the Super Mocc, and the Quantums.
A much stiffer version of the Pontas, the Pontas Lace is a sporty outdoor shoe that performs brilliantly at edging. With the added rand rubber around the toe box, it can also be used as a more technical traditional climbing shoe.
Talon
Vertical terrain need not apply. The Talon has always been the weapon of choice for serious steep sends! New for 2009 is the toe box rand layout, fully perforated upper, rigid heel cup, black mesh trim and green TRAX rubber in the arch. Ideal for bouldering, gym, and sport.
Predator
The Predator just got a serious upgrade in the cosmetic department and is ready for your steepest projects! New for 2009 is a deeper heel cup with more tension, rigid heel cup, moderately perforated upper for breathability, higher toe rand, and black mesh pull straps. Ideal for sport, gym, and bouldering.
Optimus Prime
Chris Sharma designed this versatile down cambered shoe for front point edging and climbing vertical to overhanging climbs. It offers high performance in a comfortable fit.
Evolve will also be showing the Kaos, the Defy, the Pontas, the Royale, and the Elektra.
Stop by the Shoe Demos and get a GREAT deal on shoes out this winter season!
Climbing Clip of the Week: Chris Sharma Interview
When it comes to climbing videos, especially the ones we choose to feature as Climbing Clip of the Week, they most often have been videos of actual climbing. Today, we've got something a bit different and instead of showing all climbing, we actually have an interview with one of the most talented and inspirational climbers around, Chris Sharma.
The vast majority of you already know who Chris Sharma is, but for all of you that don't know, he's a climber that was born in Santa Cruz, California back in 1981. In addition to to notching numerous first ascents in his impressive resume, he's also climbed and tackled some of the most difficult routes and climbs in the world.
At any rate, listening to him talk is great insight into climbing and I think could help any climber. Thanks to ClimbingNarc.com for the tip, check it out:
Climbing Clip of the Week: New Feature
Happy Friday! Hopefully you have a weekend packed full of climbing, fitness, and some outdoor activities all planned out! You made it through the work week and that is an accomplishment in and of it self!
I thought it'd be cool to start a new feature to the blog, every Friday offer up a new climbing video clip showing someone doing something we all love! I'm going to need your help on this, faithful readers, so if you have any videos or photos that you'd love to see featured on this new Friday feature, do not hesitate to send them into us! Maybe yours will be our Climbing Clip of the Week! Why not show off your exploits, brag to your friends, and let the Internets see how awesome you reallly are.
To kick things off, check out this clip of Chris Sharma at the 2008 Climbing Nationals. You'll get to see a lot of awesome climbing, and a huge surprise at the end. Check it out, submit your videos in to us, and have a great weekend!
Halloween Hours & Movie Night @ DRG! It's official, Halloween is only 3 days away. Whatever your costumes may be, whatever your trick-or-treating schedule or route, it's time to fill those bowls and gear up for the silliest and spookiest holiday of the year. That said, many of our gyms will be closing at different times, and I'll be sure to let you know all of them as I figure out the hours. For starters, I know Diablo Rock Gym will be closing at 6:00pm, GWPC is closing at 6, and Berkeley Ironworks at 8.
Speaking of the good ol' DRG, Tomorrow night, October 29th at 7:00 pm, we're going to be having an awesomely laid-back, low-key and most importantly FREE Movie Night! The word of this event is CASUAL so bring your comfy clothes, your good spirit and your desire to watch an awesome movie. The movie being shown will be King Lines, by Big Up Productions and it should be nothing short of great.
King Lines, according to Big Up Productions, "follows Chris Sharma on his search for the planet's greatest climbs. From South American Fantasy boulders to the sweeping limestone walls of Europe, Sharma finds and climbs the hardest, most spectacular routes. Off the coast of Mallorca he discovers his most outrageous project yet: a 70 foot arch rising from the Mediterranean Sea..."
American 5.15b!!!Chris Sharma has climbed a route that could be the hardest route in the world.
Jumbo Love (5.15b) at Clark Mountain, south of Las Vegas is a 250 ft. pitch of continuous, radically steep climbing. Sharma took numerous 100 foot falls on the route; the involved and difficult climbing doesn’t allow one to stop and clip. It’s purported to have a single jug on the whole route with the rest involving long bouldering sequences and sections of 5.13, and 5.14 climbing.
What is it like to climb Jumbo Love? Imagine climbing five times the length of the steepest, longest wall at a Touchstone gym and doing continuous V8 to V11 moves the whole way.
Sharma often is reluctant to grade grades. He’s also quite understated. In true form, he has said only that completing the route would create a milestone for climbing.
Climbing & You Tube
The winter season is upon us and you may find yourself stuck inside more than you want. If you have already had a good climbing session that day but you're too tired to continue check out YouTube to get your fix of free climbing videos. There are thousands of videos to watch, some funny, some weird, and many about climbing. Search the site using keywords like climbing, bouldering, bishop, Sharma, and even Touchstone Climbing.
In honor of the Touchstone Bouldering Series that is currently taking place, here is a video from The Bouldering Bonanza at Touchstone Concord that was held July 29th, 2005. You can thank Casey Brunt for the cinematography being he made the film.
Ethan Pringle, who grew up climbing at Mission Cliffs, has gone on to become one of the world’s hottest climbers. Ethan who grew up only a couple blocks from Mission Cliffs, started climbing in his early teens at the gym.
On Sept. 5th, Ethan became only the 5th person to ascend Realization, a route in Ceuse, France established by Chris Sharma. The route was considered at least a 5.15a – perhaps harder, although when Ethan finished the route, he put it at 14d.
"That's our boy", head routesetter Craig McClenahan stated after hearing of Ethan's send. Craig went on in jest to say "A 15a in France is a 14c in California."
The wall it is on overhangs at an absurd angle and the route stretches for over 100 feet. Redpointing the route requires technical sequences, raw power, and extraordinary crimp strength.
Pringle probably spent less time working out the moves on Realization than the four people who redpointed it before him.
The 2007 REEL ROCK Film Tour ~ Bay Area 9/8 San Francisco, Victoria Theatre, 8pm ~ Chris Sharma in person 9/26 Berkeley, Pyramid Brewery, 8pm 9/27 Berkeley, Pyramid Brewery, 8pm 10/4 Walnut Creek, Pyramid Brewery, 8pm
THE REEL ROCK Film Tour brings high-octane climbing and adventure films to enthusiastic audiences across the world. In its inaugural year of 2006, REEL ROCK packed theaters in over 50 cities from Anchorage to New York, entertained more than 10,000 people, and received rave reviews from audiences, sponsors, and local and national media.
REEL ROCK 2007 will feature King Lines -- Chris Sharma’s search for the planet’s greatest climbs -- the groundbreaking new movie from Boulder’s own Sender Films and BigUp Productions. Chris Sharma is the strongest and most famous rock climber in the world. For the past decade he has dominated his sport, and at 25 years old, the Santa Cruz, CA native is just hitting his stride. King Lines documents Sharma’s quest to be the first to climb the most difficult and outrageous rock formations around the world. A segment from Chris Sharma’s King Lines recently won an EMMY award in the category of Outstanding Photography. Sharma will make rare appearances at several of the major REEL ROCK shows in 2007.
Tickets: SF: Mission Cliffs & www.victoriatheatre.org, & at the door. Walnut Creek: Touchstone Concord, & at the door. Berkeley: Ironworks & at the door.
New DVD's for ChristmasNow in a Touchstone retail area near you are 4 new DVD's, perfect for stocking stuffers: "Best of the West" features Boone Speed, Chris Sharma, and Nate Gold making a 2-week side trip to Hueco and sending crazy-hard problems en route to New Zealand. "The Big Game" finds the trio finally making it to New Zealand and has beautiful footage of the boulders with a lot of high adrenaline climbing. "First Ascent" is all about today's top rock climbers as they lay siege to steep faces and soaring alpine walls in pursuit of climbing's pinnacle achievement - the First Ascent.
Dosage Volume IV follows the biggest names in sport climbing, traditional climbing, and bouldering as they make historic ascents at spectacular locations around the world. Highlights include: Tommy Caldwell freeclimbing both The Nose (5.14a) and Freerider (5.12d) in under 24 hours; Chris Sharma's first ascent of Dreamcatcher (5.14d) in Squamish, BC; Lisa Rands on first female ascents of scary grit routes in England's Peak District; Dave Graham doing his beautiful Coup de Grace (5.14d) in Ticino, Switzerland; and Berkeley Ironworks members Randy Puro and Courtney Hemphill pulling down hard on the gorgeous granite boulders of Switzerland.
Reel Rock Film Tour Hits the Bay AreaBig Up Productions and Sender Films have teamed up with Windstopper® to produce the first-ever nationwide rock climbing film tour. On October 3-5, the 2006 REEL ROCK Film Tour comes to Walnut Creek, Berkeley, and San Francisco.
REEL ROCK features two groundbreaking new climbing films by the top producers in the industry: Dosage Volume IV, by Josh Lowell, and First Ascent, by Peter Mortimer. Events are being held in September and October 2006 at roughly 60 venues of all sizes across the United States, with additional tours in Canada and Europe. Reel Rock shows are high-energy events for climbers and mountain enthusiasts to get excited about, incorporating gear give-aways, athlete appearances and signings, fundraising for The Access Fund and local causes, and DVD sales.
This three-day event takes place at: The Walnut Creek Pyramid Brewery -- October 3rd at 8pm; advanced tickets are available at Ironworks Climbing Gym. The Berkeley Pyramid Brewery -- October 4th at 8pm; advanced tickets are available at Ironworks Climbing Gym. San Francisco’s Victoria Theater -- October 5th at 7pm; advanced tickets are available at Mission Cliffs Climbing Gym.
Advanced tickets for all venues are $10, or $12 the day of the show. Climbers Tommy Caldwell, Beth Rodden and Klem Loskot will be in attendance. For movie trailers and tour info visit: www.reelrocktour.com.
About the Films: First Ascent The latest and greatest release from Sender Films (www.senderfilms.com) and director/producer Peter Mortimer, creators of the multi-award winning Return2Sender and Front Range Freaks.
First Ascent features today’s top rock climbers as they lay siege to steep faces and soaring alpine walls in pursuit of climbing’s pinnacle achievement – the First Ascent. Mortimer brings us on this globe-trotting journey to capture the hopes, fears, and truly radical feats of men and women on climbing’s cutting edge.
The film takes us from high Himalayan peaks to deep water soloing on the coast of Thailand, and from the sobering heights of the Black Canyon to Timmy “Urban Ape” O’Neill’s monkey business on the buildings of Hollywood. A preview segment from First Ascent premiered in January, 2006 at the Alpinist Film Festival in Jackson, WY to a capacity audience of 900 members and won the festival’s Grand Prize and People’s Choice Award.
Dosage Vol 4 Big Up's Dosage series is the definitive annual portrait of climbing's state-of-the-art. Volume IV follows the biggest names in sport climbing, trad climbing, and bouldering as they make historic ascents at spectacular locations around the world. Highlights include: Tommy Caldwell's marathon El Capitan linkup, free climbing both The Nose (5.14a) and Freerider (5.12d) in under 24 hours; Chris Sharma's first ascent of Dreamcatcher (5.14d) in Squamish, BC; Dave Graham's first ascent of Coup De Grace (5.15a) in Ticino, Switzerland; Lisa Rands’ first female ascents of scary grit routes in England's Peak District; Sharma and Graham opening a new level of hard bouldering in Hueco Tanks, Texas; and much more.
Director Josh Lowell is a leading creator of climbing films. His company, Big Up Productions (www.bigUPproductions.com), has released seven films, including the top-selling titles in the industry. Lowell has worked extensively with the legendary climber Chris Sharma for years. His Dosage Volume II was the winner of six international film festival awards and was featured in Sports Illustrated and National Public Radio.
REEL ROCK TOUR Film Sponsors: Petzl, Climbing Magazine, Mountain Gear, Montbell, La Sportiva, Prana, Osprey, Nikwax, and Entreprises