Touchstone Blog Archive
Thursday, December 1, 2011
Jailhouse Project- Access Fund Video
On November 12th, the Access Fund hosted a workday at Jailhouse near Sonora, CA. Over 200 tons of gravel was laid for a new parking area and road, new fences and gates were made and the access trail was improved.
Jailhouse has been a great example of the climbing community uniting. Sterling Ropes donated a large amount of camouflaged rope to help replace existing fixed draws, Touchstone provided a significant amount of money to replace anchors, bolts, and biners, and about 50 climbers came out to help with the work.
Jerry Doodrill came out and snapped photos of the hardworking crew of climbers.
Craig and Erica working on the gate together.
There is currently a lock to the gate off of O'Byrnes Ferry Road. To find out the code, check out the Access Fund website. The website allows provides directions, information about how to get there, and other pertinent crag related information.
Jailhouse has been a great example of the climbing community uniting. Sterling Ropes donated a large amount of camouflaged rope to help replace existing fixed draws, Touchstone provided a significant amount of money to replace anchors, bolts, and biners, and about 50 climbers came out to help with the work.
Jerry Doodrill came out and snapped photos of the hardworking crew of climbers.
Craig and Erica working on the gate together.
There is currently a lock to the gate off of O'Byrnes Ferry Road. To find out the code, check out the Access Fund website. The website allows provides directions, information about how to get there, and other pertinent crag related information.
Labels: Access Fund, Jerry Dodrill, Unlock Jailhouse
¶ Thursday, December 01, 2011 0 Comments
Tuesday, November 15, 2011
Merced River Plan Feedback
The November 30th feedback deadline for the Merced River Plan is fast approaching and any climber that loves Yosemite, needs to get involved.
In 1987 the U.S. Congress designated the Merced a Wild and Scenic River to preserve its free-flowing condition and to protect and enhance the unique values that made it worthy of special protection under the Wild and Scenic Rivers Act. Both the Merced River above, through, and below Yosemite Valley, and the South Fork of the Merced above, through, and below Wawona have this special status.
In accordance with the law, the National Park Service (NPS) is preparing the Merced Wild and Scenic River Comprehensive Management Plan and Environmental Impact Statement (Merced River Plan/EIS) for the 81 miles of the river within Yosemite National Park. When completed, the plan will guide future management of activities in the river corridor, including site-specific actions needed to protect the river in Yosemite Valley, El Portal, and Wawona.
What this means for climbers is that access to boulders and cliffs around the river are in serious jeopardy. The river often floods and the boundaries of the river are being defined in this plan. The Atlantis boulder, the short climbs at Arch Rock, and many of the river side boulders and cliffs can be shut down by the Merced River Plan. The National Park service needs to hear from climbers so that their concerns can be addressed.
This is the NPS link for information:
This is the link to the workbook:
A number of climbers are taking part in the conversation but a stronger voice from the climbing community is needed.
You can help by:
Joining the Access Fund
Getting involved with the Yosemite Climbing Association
Spreading the word about the plan, and discussing it with other climbers
Jason Keith, the Senior Policy Advisor at the Access Fund, commented:
Over the past few years Yosemite National Park has been ramping up various management planning initiatives that either directly affect climbing access or the various ways that climbers visit the Valley such as camping. The latest of these has been the Merced Wild and Scenic River Plan (MRP) which concerns essentially everything climbers do in the park before they actually put their climbing shoes on: transportation, parking, camping, amenities, and site specific issues such as potential changes to El Cap Meadow and Camp 4. See AF’s MRP scoping comments here.
The MRP has been the subject of extensive litigation that resulted in a court ordering the park to determine and enforce a specific carrying capacity limits for visitors in the Merced River planning area (the Valley) which in turn will govern any new developments in Yosemite. Recently the Park hosted several MRP workshops where Yosemite staff presented various planning scenarios for Yosemite Valley which could eventually turn into planning alternatives. These workshops were designed to give the public a window into the status of the Park’s thinking on the MRP thus far, avoid any surprises, provide an opportunity for public comment, and foster relationships among various Yosemite interest groups including the litigants of the MRP. This workshop was greatly facilitated by the MRP workbook (get your copy here). The Park is also developing the Tuolumne River Plan (camping, parking, amenities at stake – see AF comments here).
Climbers interested in Yosemite issues should take of look at the MRP workbook and get your comments in by November 30. The Access Fund’s positions on appropriate MRP planning alternatives are as follows:
Yosemite planners should work to reverse lodging/camping ratio (currently 60/40) to provide more camping and less emphasis on lodging (move lodging to the park boundaries). Providing more camping in the Park, and limiting lodging in the park to rustic/primitive accommodations, is consistent with the NPS's own management policies that promote visitors having a direct relationship to Park resources. Adjusting this ratio would also be more consistent with a national park instead of the luxury resort or amusement park that Yosemite often resembles. AF’s Valley Plan comments are found here.
Park planners should include in the MRP the several "improvements" for Camp 4 that were contemplated in Lodge Redevelopment Plan (which was stalled by the MRP litigation). These improvements include showers, fencing to encourage vegetation, limited loud bus noise, foul weather cooking pavilion and communal fire, and a nearby location for Ken Yager's Yosemite climbing museum. In addition to focusing on more camping in the Park, planners should also improve the quality of the camping experience, especially at locations such as Camp 4 where climbers are forced into highly dense and low-quality campsites. Planners should recognize the historic importance of this campground and improve some of the basic amenities such as the bathrooms. See AF’s previous comments on Camp 4 planning here.
Yosemite planners should restore as much camping as possible to sites that have already been disturbed such as the Pine and Oak lodging units and the Rivers Campground that were destroyed in the 1997 flood. These areas in particular could be engineered with the recognition that they will again be flooded. Plan maps should indicate flood plain areas where shallow flood depths and low water velocities make the development of campsites feasible. Planners should establish diversity of camping opportunities (including walk-in, walk-to, and a "drop-off" your gear but walk-in model) and not just limit opportunities to drive-in campgrounds (where RV generators, for example, impact the experience) or the ghetto at Camp 4. The Park should bring campsite numbers at least back to pre-flood totals as contemplated in Yosemite's General Management Plan (there's currently a shortfall of 300 campsites), but any new sites should be focused on placement in the East Valley so that the largely undisturbed areas west of Camp 4 don't also suffer from campfire smoke and new infrastructure. The Access Fund has also long advocated for the addition of camping in the Park outside of Yosemite Valley.
The Park should ensure climbing needs are addressed in the MRP, particularly parking locations throughout Valley and the Merced Gorge segment (Cookie Cliff, Arch Rock, etc.).
Park planners should ensure that measures to restore or harden El Cap Meadow are not unsightly from above. The MRP should consider hybrid approach for boardwalk further west of typical climber use areas, and use fencing and other ways to focus people onto a few discrete paths into Meadow. The MRP should ensure that climbers can continue their traditional use of the Meadow.
Park planners should ensure that there is adequate day use parking while pursuing a range of transit strategies to reduce auto use in the Valley.
Non-resource based attractions and high-impact commercial amusements such as the swimming pool, skating rink, and horseback rides to Mirror Lake should be phased out.
The Plan should include a noise control element that addresses noise sources such as idling tour buses, motorcycles, trash collection, RV generators, the Green Dragon touring flatbeds and others.
Please let us know what you think! If you have any questions, ideas, or comments, email Jason@accessfund.org.
In 1987 the U.S. Congress designated the Merced a Wild and Scenic River to preserve its free-flowing condition and to protect and enhance the unique values that made it worthy of special protection under the Wild and Scenic Rivers Act. Both the Merced River above, through, and below Yosemite Valley, and the South Fork of the Merced above, through, and below Wawona have this special status.
In accordance with the law, the National Park Service (NPS) is preparing the Merced Wild and Scenic River Comprehensive Management Plan and Environmental Impact Statement (Merced River Plan/EIS) for the 81 miles of the river within Yosemite National Park. When completed, the plan will guide future management of activities in the river corridor, including site-specific actions needed to protect the river in Yosemite Valley, El Portal, and Wawona.
What this means for climbers is that access to boulders and cliffs around the river are in serious jeopardy. The river often floods and the boundaries of the river are being defined in this plan. The Atlantis boulder, the short climbs at Arch Rock, and many of the river side boulders and cliffs can be shut down by the Merced River Plan. The National Park service needs to hear from climbers so that their concerns can be addressed.
This is the NPS link for information:
This is the link to the workbook:
A number of climbers are taking part in the conversation but a stronger voice from the climbing community is needed.
You can help by:
Joining the Access Fund
Getting involved with the Yosemite Climbing Association
Spreading the word about the plan, and discussing it with other climbers
Jason Keith, the Senior Policy Advisor at the Access Fund, commented:
Over the past few years Yosemite National Park has been ramping up various management planning initiatives that either directly affect climbing access or the various ways that climbers visit the Valley such as camping. The latest of these has been the Merced Wild and Scenic River Plan (MRP) which concerns essentially everything climbers do in the park before they actually put their climbing shoes on: transportation, parking, camping, amenities, and site specific issues such as potential changes to El Cap Meadow and Camp 4. See AF’s MRP scoping comments here.
The MRP has been the subject of extensive litigation that resulted in a court ordering the park to determine and enforce a specific carrying capacity limits for visitors in the Merced River planning area (the Valley) which in turn will govern any new developments in Yosemite. Recently the Park hosted several MRP workshops where Yosemite staff presented various planning scenarios for Yosemite Valley which could eventually turn into planning alternatives. These workshops were designed to give the public a window into the status of the Park’s thinking on the MRP thus far, avoid any surprises, provide an opportunity for public comment, and foster relationships among various Yosemite interest groups including the litigants of the MRP. This workshop was greatly facilitated by the MRP workbook (get your copy here). The Park is also developing the Tuolumne River Plan (camping, parking, amenities at stake – see AF comments here).
Climbers interested in Yosemite issues should take of look at the MRP workbook and get your comments in by November 30. The Access Fund’s positions on appropriate MRP planning alternatives are as follows:
Yosemite planners should work to reverse lodging/camping ratio (currently 60/40) to provide more camping and less emphasis on lodging (move lodging to the park boundaries). Providing more camping in the Park, and limiting lodging in the park to rustic/primitive accommodations, is consistent with the NPS's own management policies that promote visitors having a direct relationship to Park resources. Adjusting this ratio would also be more consistent with a national park instead of the luxury resort or amusement park that Yosemite often resembles. AF’s Valley Plan comments are found here.
Park planners should include in the MRP the several "improvements" for Camp 4 that were contemplated in Lodge Redevelopment Plan (which was stalled by the MRP litigation). These improvements include showers, fencing to encourage vegetation, limited loud bus noise, foul weather cooking pavilion and communal fire, and a nearby location for Ken Yager's Yosemite climbing museum. In addition to focusing on more camping in the Park, planners should also improve the quality of the camping experience, especially at locations such as Camp 4 where climbers are forced into highly dense and low-quality campsites. Planners should recognize the historic importance of this campground and improve some of the basic amenities such as the bathrooms. See AF’s previous comments on Camp 4 planning here.
Yosemite planners should restore as much camping as possible to sites that have already been disturbed such as the Pine and Oak lodging units and the Rivers Campground that were destroyed in the 1997 flood. These areas in particular could be engineered with the recognition that they will again be flooded. Plan maps should indicate flood plain areas where shallow flood depths and low water velocities make the development of campsites feasible. Planners should establish diversity of camping opportunities (including walk-in, walk-to, and a "drop-off" your gear but walk-in model) and not just limit opportunities to drive-in campgrounds (where RV generators, for example, impact the experience) or the ghetto at Camp 4. The Park should bring campsite numbers at least back to pre-flood totals as contemplated in Yosemite's General Management Plan (there's currently a shortfall of 300 campsites), but any new sites should be focused on placement in the East Valley so that the largely undisturbed areas west of Camp 4 don't also suffer from campfire smoke and new infrastructure. The Access Fund has also long advocated for the addition of camping in the Park outside of Yosemite Valley.
The Park should ensure climbing needs are addressed in the MRP, particularly parking locations throughout Valley and the Merced Gorge segment (Cookie Cliff, Arch Rock, etc.).
Park planners should ensure that measures to restore or harden El Cap Meadow are not unsightly from above. The MRP should consider hybrid approach for boardwalk further west of typical climber use areas, and use fencing and other ways to focus people onto a few discrete paths into Meadow. The MRP should ensure that climbers can continue their traditional use of the Meadow.
Park planners should ensure that there is adequate day use parking while pursuing a range of transit strategies to reduce auto use in the Valley.
Non-resource based attractions and high-impact commercial amusements such as the swimming pool, skating rink, and horseback rides to Mirror Lake should be phased out.
The Plan should include a noise control element that addresses noise sources such as idling tour buses, motorcycles, trash collection, RV generators, the Green Dragon touring flatbeds and others.
Please let us know what you think! If you have any questions, ideas, or comments, email Jason@accessfund.org.
Labels: Access Fund, Merced River Plan
¶ Tuesday, November 15, 2011 0 Comments
Thursday, November 10, 2011
Jailhouse Adopt-A-Crag
On November 12th, the Access Fund is hosting a workday at Jailhouse near Sonora, CA. Over 200 tons of gravel will be laid for a new parking area and road, new fences and gates will be made and the access trail will be improved. The Access Fund is helping to sponsor this Adopt-A-Crag event. Climbers around the bay area will be heading out to help.
Mountain Hardware, Prana, MadRock and more have generously donated everything from deluxe packs to a sleeping bag to lots of chalkbags, hats, T-shirts, yoga mat, and a whole lot more stuff. Climbers volunteering will be eligible for some of this great stuff!
Also, as of that day, the access to the crag will change. New access will be through a gate off O'Byrnes Ferry Road, which will be locked. To get in through the gate, you'll need the combination. That will be posted here:
Jailhouse Access Fund
The terms of the new easement require that climbers follow a few guidelines- No dogs, music, fires or camping are allowed. Also, per the owner's request, please don't park outside of the new access gate. Until Nov. 12th, park by the bridge and approach the cliff by the old traditional hike up the steep hill.
Stop by Jailhouse on November 12th to help out at one of the US's and Bay Area's premiere sport climbing crags.
Mountain Hardware, Prana, MadRock and more have generously donated everything from deluxe packs to a sleeping bag to lots of chalkbags, hats, T-shirts, yoga mat, and a whole lot more stuff. Climbers volunteering will be eligible for some of this great stuff!
Also, as of that day, the access to the crag will change. New access will be through a gate off O'Byrnes Ferry Road, which will be locked. To get in through the gate, you'll need the combination. That will be posted here:
Jailhouse Access Fund
The terms of the new easement require that climbers follow a few guidelines- No dogs, music, fires or camping are allowed. Also, per the owner's request, please don't park outside of the new access gate. Until Nov. 12th, park by the bridge and approach the cliff by the old traditional hike up the steep hill.
Stop by Jailhouse on November 12th to help out at one of the US's and Bay Area's premiere sport climbing crags.
Labels: Access Fund, Adopt-A-Crag, Jailhouse
¶ Thursday, November 10, 2011 0 Comments
Thursday, October 20, 2011
Jailhouse Adopt-A-Crag
On November 12th, the Access Fund is hosting a workday at Jailhouse near Sonora, CA. Over 200 tons of gravel will be laid for a new parking area and road, new fences and gates will be made and the access trail will be improved. The Access Fund is helping to sponsor this Adopt-A-Crag event. Climbers around the bay area will be heading out to help.
Also, as of that day, the access to the crag will change. New access will be through a gate off O'Byrnes Ferry Road, which will be locked. To get in through the gate, you'll need the combination. That will be posted here:
Jailhouse Access Fund
The terms of the new easement require that climbers follow a few guidelines- No dogs, music, fires or camping are allowed. Also, per the owner's request, please don't park outside of the new access gate. Until Nov. 12th, park by the bridge and approach the cliff by the old traditional hike up the steep hill.
Stop by Jailhouse on November 12th to help out at one of the US's and Bar Area's premiere sport climbing crags.
Also, as of that day, the access to the crag will change. New access will be through a gate off O'Byrnes Ferry Road, which will be locked. To get in through the gate, you'll need the combination. That will be posted here:
Jailhouse Access Fund
The terms of the new easement require that climbers follow a few guidelines- No dogs, music, fires or camping are allowed. Also, per the owner's request, please don't park outside of the new access gate. Until Nov. 12th, park by the bridge and approach the cliff by the old traditional hike up the steep hill.
Stop by Jailhouse on November 12th to help out at one of the US's and Bar Area's premiere sport climbing crags.
Labels: Access Fund, Jailhouse, Tom Addison
¶ Thursday, October 20, 2011 0 Comments
Thursday, October 13, 2011
Help Save Summit Rock
The Access Fund released a note about Summit Rock in Santa Clara. The crag is being closed because of bird nesting.
The County of Santa Clara, California has closed Summit Rock, a popular crag in the Bay Area to protect peregrine falcons nesting. Instead of implementing a seasonal climbing closure to protect the nesting site, the standard management practice at all levels of government nationwide, the County is enforcing a year round closure.
Summit Rock is one of the largest and most popular climbing destinations in the Bay Area. It features easy access, high quality sandstone, and a wide range of difficulty, including moderate routes for youth and beginners.
Summit Rock is the only year-round raptor-related climbing closure in the nation. The County has adopted a recreation management approach that the National Park Service and U.S. Forest Service, agencies with decades of experience in climbing and raptor management, did not even consider when the peregrine falcon was listed as an endangered species. The Access Fund supports dozens of legitimate seasonal raptor closures across the country and actively educates climbers about seasonal restrictions and the importance of protecting cliff-nesting raptors. The Access Fund believe that the county’s year-round closure of Summit Rock, while perhaps well-intentioned, is uninformed, misguided, and unnecessary.
The Access Fund needs your help to appeal to the County to lift this unreasonable closure and work with the climbing community to implement appropriate climbing management practices that protect the nesting raptors while still allowing recreational access.
You can also help by donating to the Save Summit Rock fund. We need your help to raise $2,000 to bring a renowned peregrine expert to Summit Rock to provide an assessment of the site and provide the county with a written opinion and recommendations on necessary closures to protect nest sites.
Check out more information at the Access Fund website for more information.
The County of Santa Clara, California has closed Summit Rock, a popular crag in the Bay Area to protect peregrine falcons nesting. Instead of implementing a seasonal climbing closure to protect the nesting site, the standard management practice at all levels of government nationwide, the County is enforcing a year round closure.
Summit Rock is one of the largest and most popular climbing destinations in the Bay Area. It features easy access, high quality sandstone, and a wide range of difficulty, including moderate routes for youth and beginners.
Summit Rock is the only year-round raptor-related climbing closure in the nation. The County has adopted a recreation management approach that the National Park Service and U.S. Forest Service, agencies with decades of experience in climbing and raptor management, did not even consider when the peregrine falcon was listed as an endangered species. The Access Fund supports dozens of legitimate seasonal raptor closures across the country and actively educates climbers about seasonal restrictions and the importance of protecting cliff-nesting raptors. The Access Fund believe that the county’s year-round closure of Summit Rock, while perhaps well-intentioned, is uninformed, misguided, and unnecessary.
The Access Fund needs your help to appeal to the County to lift this unreasonable closure and work with the climbing community to implement appropriate climbing management practices that protect the nesting raptors while still allowing recreational access.
You can also help by donating to the Save Summit Rock fund. We need your help to raise $2,000 to bring a renowned peregrine expert to Summit Rock to provide an assessment of the site and provide the county with a written opinion and recommendations on necessary closures to protect nest sites.
Check out more information at the Access Fund website for more information.
Labels: Access Fund, Peregrine nesting, Summit Rock
¶ Thursday, October 13, 2011 1 Comments
Sunday, October 9, 2011
Indian Rock Clean-Up
On Friday, October 14th the Access Fund is having an Adopt-A-Crag cleanup from 10am to sunset at Berkeley's Indian Rock. Mountain Hardwear employees as well as other Bay area climber's will be heading out to the local park to brush holds, clean up trash and make sure that the local climbing area remains pristine.
According to the Access Fund, Adopt-A-Crag events like the one at Indian Rock exist to unite local climbing communities in partnerships with land managers to conserve local climbing areas. Adopt-a-Crag events typically include activities such as litter clean-ups, trail construction and restoration, erosion control, and invasive weed removal.
These events epitomize climber conservation at the local level, showing landowners and land managers that climbers truly care about the places they recreate. This display of stewardship not only gives back to the land, but is paramount to keeping climbing areas open by showing decision makers the passion that climbers have for their climbing areas.
Sam Kobata, a Mountain Hardwear employee, has been working hard at maintaining local crags. A few months ago, Kobata participated in a clean-up at Mount St. Helena. Kobata will be working there on Friday. If you have any questions, need directions or wondering what you should bring to help out contact him at Sam Kobata- skobata@mountainhardwear.com.
According to the Access Fund, Adopt-A-Crag events like the one at Indian Rock exist to unite local climbing communities in partnerships with land managers to conserve local climbing areas. Adopt-a-Crag events typically include activities such as litter clean-ups, trail construction and restoration, erosion control, and invasive weed removal.
These events epitomize climber conservation at the local level, showing landowners and land managers that climbers truly care about the places they recreate. This display of stewardship not only gives back to the land, but is paramount to keeping climbing areas open by showing decision makers the passion that climbers have for their climbing areas.
Sam Kobata, a Mountain Hardwear employee, has been working hard at maintaining local crags. A few months ago, Kobata participated in a clean-up at Mount St. Helena. Kobata will be working there on Friday. If you have any questions, need directions or wondering what you should bring to help out contact him at Sam Kobata- skobata@mountainhardwear.com.
Labels: Access Fund, Indian Rock, local parks
¶ Sunday, October 09, 2011 0 Comments
Sunday, May 22, 2011
Castle Rock State Park on Verge of Closure
Seventy state parks across California will close starting in September. Elizabeth Goldstein, executive director of the California State Parks Foundation, said, "It represents 25 percent of the park system and, for the Bay Area, it's a big hit." Most significant is the closure of Castle Rock State Park, located in the redwoods of the Santa Cruz Mountains. The park has been a long time local bay area bouldering area- California's Fontableau with it's sloping sandstone boulders.
The closures are necessary to cover the two-year, $22 million cut in the state parks budget the Legislature agreed to in March. Those cuts were made to help shrink the state's then-$26 billion deficit to its current $15.6 billion. The funding for the state parks was going to come from an $18 increase in automotive registration, a bill that voters vetoed.
Park officials said rangers and maintenance workers will periodically patrol the shuttered parks and they are hoping volunteers will also step up. Some parks could remain open if nonprofit groups or local governments step in and take over their operation and funding, or if additional concession operators can be recruited, officials said. The Access Fund is currently working to stop the closure with a solid petition and political campaigning.
The closures will begin in September, Coleman said, and be completed by July 2012. The parks will be open through this summer, but there will be significant service reduction through the summer.
I visited Castle Rock over the weekend. Tons of climbers, and hikers littered the park. The very full parking lot was being manned by three rangers, one of whom took the time to speak with me about the changes. The ranger was unsure of the status of Castle Rock- if they'd be patrolling the area and ticketing people once it closed or what exactly the outcome of Castle Rock would be. The ranger informed me that things would remain the same through the summer but the fall would see changes.
Take a moment to write to your local politician about the closure using the easy to use letter writing tool at the AccessFund.
A frequent member of the Berkeley Ironworks crew, Michele Lombardo Goodhew climbs at Castle Rock State Park. Here's a video of her crushing The Lost Keys Traverse(V6), a neo-classic discovered by Chris Bloch a few years ago when he lost his keys. Check out the smooth moves she executes through the crux and into the hard mantle finish.
With competing beta, here's local hardman and Johnny Utah look-a-like Al Liu sending the Lost Keys Traverse as well.
Just below Castle Rock, a single hueco guards a series of bad slopers. The aesthetic problem was a long term John "Yabo" Yabolonski project until a few years ago when Santa Cruz local, Chris Sharma dispatched the first ascent of "Ecoterrorist" (V10/11). Here's some footage of Scott Chandler hiking the classic Castle Rock problem.
Below Indian Rock are a number of less developed and very good boulders. There's good information about them on a Supertopo Thread. There's some awesome new mantle problems down the hill. Get out there and check them out.
Make sure to voice your opinion about the state park closures- help keep Castle Rock open!
The closures are necessary to cover the two-year, $22 million cut in the state parks budget the Legislature agreed to in March. Those cuts were made to help shrink the state's then-$26 billion deficit to its current $15.6 billion. The funding for the state parks was going to come from an $18 increase in automotive registration, a bill that voters vetoed.
Park officials said rangers and maintenance workers will periodically patrol the shuttered parks and they are hoping volunteers will also step up. Some parks could remain open if nonprofit groups or local governments step in and take over their operation and funding, or if additional concession operators can be recruited, officials said. The Access Fund is currently working to stop the closure with a solid petition and political campaigning.
The closures will begin in September, Coleman said, and be completed by July 2012. The parks will be open through this summer, but there will be significant service reduction through the summer.
I visited Castle Rock over the weekend. Tons of climbers, and hikers littered the park. The very full parking lot was being manned by three rangers, one of whom took the time to speak with me about the changes. The ranger was unsure of the status of Castle Rock- if they'd be patrolling the area and ticketing people once it closed or what exactly the outcome of Castle Rock would be. The ranger informed me that things would remain the same through the summer but the fall would see changes.
Take a moment to write to your local politician about the closure using the easy to use letter writing tool at the AccessFund.
A frequent member of the Berkeley Ironworks crew, Michele Lombardo Goodhew climbs at Castle Rock State Park. Here's a video of her crushing The Lost Keys Traverse(V6), a neo-classic discovered by Chris Bloch a few years ago when he lost his keys. Check out the smooth moves she executes through the crux and into the hard mantle finish.
With competing beta, here's local hardman and Johnny Utah look-a-like Al Liu sending the Lost Keys Traverse as well.
Lost Keys from Al Liu on Vimeo.
Just below Castle Rock, a single hueco guards a series of bad slopers. The aesthetic problem was a long term John "Yabo" Yabolonski project until a few years ago when Santa Cruz local, Chris Sharma dispatched the first ascent of "Ecoterrorist" (V10/11). Here's some footage of Scott Chandler hiking the classic Castle Rock problem.
Ecoterrorist [v10] from scott chandler on Vimeo.
Below Indian Rock are a number of less developed and very good boulders. There's good information about them on a Supertopo Thread. There's some awesome new mantle problems down the hill. Get out there and check them out.
Make sure to voice your opinion about the state park closures- help keep Castle Rock open!
Labels: Access Fund, Al Liu, Castle Rock State Park
¶ Sunday, May 22, 2011 2 Comments
Memorial for Bay Area Climbing Fixture Jason Dunbar
The Touchstone community lost a valued member last week. Jason Dunbar, a 34 year old climber of twenty years and a fixture in the bay area climbing community, suffered a heart attack while hiking on the trails of Yosemite.
A passionate and talented cook, Jason worked as a Sous Chef at Millennium Restaurant in SF, where he created the menu along with Eric Tucker. The gourmet vegetarian restaurant feeds people delicious food that keeps the environment in mind in the making. "He was honest and full of life-someone who believed that if he was going to do something, it was going to be done right and with all of his endless energy and integrity," said Allison Bagby.
Jason loved Yosemite and spent a significant amount of time in the valley, where once a week for the past three years he took day trips to boulder or to hike looking for new rocks on rainy days.
Jason's memorial service will be held on Friday, May 27th at 2PM at Lafayette Orinda Presbyterian Church, 49 Knox Dr., Lafayette.
In lieu of flowers, Jason’s family and friends are asking you to contribution to The Access Fund; an organization dedicated to protecting the environment at America's rock climbing sites.You can make a memorial donation to Jason's Access Fund Site
A passionate and talented cook, Jason worked as a Sous Chef at Millennium Restaurant in SF, where he created the menu along with Eric Tucker. The gourmet vegetarian restaurant feeds people delicious food that keeps the environment in mind in the making. "He was honest and full of life-someone who believed that if he was going to do something, it was going to be done right and with all of his endless energy and integrity," said Allison Bagby.
Jason loved Yosemite and spent a significant amount of time in the valley, where once a week for the past three years he took day trips to boulder or to hike looking for new rocks on rainy days.
Jason's memorial service will be held on Friday, May 27th at 2PM at Lafayette Orinda Presbyterian Church, 49 Knox Dr., Lafayette.
In lieu of flowers, Jason’s family and friends are asking you to contribution to The Access Fund; an organization dedicated to protecting the environment at America's rock climbing sites.You can make a memorial donation to Jason's Access Fund Site
Labels: Access Fund, Jason Dunbar, Millenium Restaurant
¶ Sunday, May 22, 2011 2 Comments
Friday, April 15, 2011
Jailhouse Awarded Conservation Grant
Last week, Jailhouse received a grant from the Conservation Alliance. Check out the details of the grant from the Access Fund.
April 6, 2011. Boulder, CO – The Access Fund, the national advocacy organization that keeps climbing areas open and conserves the climbing environment, is excited to announce that it has been awarded a grant from the Conservation Alliance to secure permanent public access to and long-term conservation of Jailhouse Rock climbing area near Sonora, California.
The Access Fund and local climbers began working with the landowners in August of last year when they learned that future access to this popular climbing area was at risk by a quickly approaching subdivision. It became clear that the Access Fund needed to launch a fundraising campaign to secure permanent access and conservation of the cliff line – the Unlock Jailhouse campaign was launched in November of last year. The Conservation Alliance grant brings a successful end to this fundraising effort.
Thanks to support from the climbing community and the Conservation Alliance, the Access Fund exceeded its fundraising goal, with $75,000 raised to secure a permanent access and conservation easement to the property. The funds will also allow the Access Fund and local volunteers to improve facilities and access, and create a long-term stewardship fund for the property.
The existing parking area and access trail will remain open for the immediate future. The Access Fund will be working with local climbers and the landowners this summer to install a new gate, parking area, trailhead, and toilet facilities, at which point the old access route will be restored to natural conditions and closed. Stay tuned for updated access information, including the code and important conditions of access, www.accessfund.org/jailhouse.
The Access Fund would like to extend a heartfelt thanks to the Conservation Alliance and all of the individual donors and companies who generously opened their wallets to make this climbing access and conservation victory possible.
About the Access Fund
Celebrating its 20th anniversary, the Access Fund is the national advocacy organization that keeps climbing areas open and conserves the climbing environment. The Access Fund supports and represents over 2.3 million climbers nationwide in all forms of climbing: rock climbing, ice climbing, mountaineering, and bouldering. Five core programs support the mission on national and local levels: climbing management policy, stewardship and conservation, local support and mobilization, land acquisition and protection, and education. For more information visit www.accessfund.org.
About the Conservation Alliance
The Conservation Alliance is a group of outdoor industry companies that disburses its collective annual membership dues to grassroots environmental organizations. It directs funding to community-based campaigns to protect threatened wild habitat, preferably where outdoor enthusiasts recreate. The Alliance was founded in 1989 by industry leaders REI, Patagonia, The North Face, and Kelty, who shared the goal of increasing outdoor industry support for conservation efforts.
April 6, 2011. Boulder, CO – The Access Fund, the national advocacy organization that keeps climbing areas open and conserves the climbing environment, is excited to announce that it has been awarded a grant from the Conservation Alliance to secure permanent public access to and long-term conservation of Jailhouse Rock climbing area near Sonora, California.
The Access Fund and local climbers began working with the landowners in August of last year when they learned that future access to this popular climbing area was at risk by a quickly approaching subdivision. It became clear that the Access Fund needed to launch a fundraising campaign to secure permanent access and conservation of the cliff line – the Unlock Jailhouse campaign was launched in November of last year. The Conservation Alliance grant brings a successful end to this fundraising effort.
Thanks to support from the climbing community and the Conservation Alliance, the Access Fund exceeded its fundraising goal, with $75,000 raised to secure a permanent access and conservation easement to the property. The funds will also allow the Access Fund and local volunteers to improve facilities and access, and create a long-term stewardship fund for the property.
The existing parking area and access trail will remain open for the immediate future. The Access Fund will be working with local climbers and the landowners this summer to install a new gate, parking area, trailhead, and toilet facilities, at which point the old access route will be restored to natural conditions and closed. Stay tuned for updated access information, including the code and important conditions of access, www.accessfund.org/jailhouse.
The Access Fund would like to extend a heartfelt thanks to the Conservation Alliance and all of the individual donors and companies who generously opened their wallets to make this climbing access and conservation victory possible.
About the Access Fund
Celebrating its 20th anniversary, the Access Fund is the national advocacy organization that keeps climbing areas open and conserves the climbing environment. The Access Fund supports and represents over 2.3 million climbers nationwide in all forms of climbing: rock climbing, ice climbing, mountaineering, and bouldering. Five core programs support the mission on national and local levels: climbing management policy, stewardship and conservation, local support and mobilization, land acquisition and protection, and education. For more information visit www.accessfund.org.
About the Conservation Alliance
The Conservation Alliance is a group of outdoor industry companies that disburses its collective annual membership dues to grassroots environmental organizations. It directs funding to community-based campaigns to protect threatened wild habitat, preferably where outdoor enthusiasts recreate. The Alliance was founded in 1989 by industry leaders REI, Patagonia, The North Face, and Kelty, who shared the goal of increasing outdoor industry support for conservation efforts.
Labels: Access Fund, conservation alliance, Jailhouse
¶ Friday, April 15, 2011 0 Comments
Friday, February 25, 2011
Jailhouse Unlocked!
The Access Fund just released news about the current state of affairs of the Unlock Jailhouse Fund-raising campaign. Not only has $49,000 been raised for Jailhouse, but Touchstone has worked with Craig McClenahan and Fixe hardware to replace all the old bolts, draws, and anchors for the crag.
Check out the press release from the Access Fund.
February 25, 2011. Boulder, CO – The Access Fund, the national advocacy organization that keeps climbing areas open and conserves the climbing environment, is thrilled to announce the completion of the initial fundraising phase for Jailhouse Rock. In just over two months, climbers and conservationists from California and beyond have raised over $49,000—exceeding our initial fundraising goal.
In November of last year, the Access Fund announced that a permanent access easement and conservation easement had been secured to Jailhouse Rock near Sonora, California through the Access Fund Land Conservation Campaign. However more help was needed from the climbing community to raise funds to create a new access point, trailhead, parking facilities, and ensure long-term conservation.
Since the initial fundraising phase, the landowners have requested toilet facilities for Jailhouse Rock, and with input from the climbing community Access Fund is exploring the best option for these facilities. Access Fund has applied for a grant from a conservation foundation to cover a portion of the toilet facility costs. The application is pending. Stay tuned to www.accessfund.org/jailhouse for updates.
The Access Fund would like to extend a heartfelt thanks to everyone who generously opened their wallets to make this victory happen. A special thanks to Tom Addison for his fundraising leadership, Planet Granite and Touchstone Climbing and Fitness, as well as all of our corporate partners who donated raffle items. “We are so impressed by the spirit and generosity of the community coming together to protect a threatened crag,” says Access Director Joe Sambataro. Individual donations for Jailhouse Rock will still be accepted and put toward long-term stewardship of the area.
The existing parking area and access trail will remain open for the immediate future. The Access Fund will be working with local climbers and the landowners this year to install a new gate, parking area, and trailhead, at which point the old access route will be restored to natural conditions and closed. At that time, climbers will need a gate code to access the cliffs, since the area is leased for grazing horses. Stay tuned for updated access information, including the code and important conditions of access, www.accessfund.org/jailhouse.
Check out the press release from the Access Fund.
February 25, 2011. Boulder, CO – The Access Fund, the national advocacy organization that keeps climbing areas open and conserves the climbing environment, is thrilled to announce the completion of the initial fundraising phase for Jailhouse Rock. In just over two months, climbers and conservationists from California and beyond have raised over $49,000—exceeding our initial fundraising goal.
In November of last year, the Access Fund announced that a permanent access easement and conservation easement had been secured to Jailhouse Rock near Sonora, California through the Access Fund Land Conservation Campaign. However more help was needed from the climbing community to raise funds to create a new access point, trailhead, parking facilities, and ensure long-term conservation.
Since the initial fundraising phase, the landowners have requested toilet facilities for Jailhouse Rock, and with input from the climbing community Access Fund is exploring the best option for these facilities. Access Fund has applied for a grant from a conservation foundation to cover a portion of the toilet facility costs. The application is pending. Stay tuned to www.accessfund.org/jailhouse for updates.
The Access Fund would like to extend a heartfelt thanks to everyone who generously opened their wallets to make this victory happen. A special thanks to Tom Addison for his fundraising leadership, Planet Granite and Touchstone Climbing and Fitness, as well as all of our corporate partners who donated raffle items. “We are so impressed by the spirit and generosity of the community coming together to protect a threatened crag,” says Access Director Joe Sambataro. Individual donations for Jailhouse Rock will still be accepted and put toward long-term stewardship of the area.
The existing parking area and access trail will remain open for the immediate future. The Access Fund will be working with local climbers and the landowners this year to install a new gate, parking area, and trailhead, at which point the old access route will be restored to natural conditions and closed. At that time, climbers will need a gate code to access the cliffs, since the area is leased for grazing horses. Stay tuned for updated access information, including the code and important conditions of access, www.accessfund.org/jailhouse.
Labels: Access Fund, Craig McClenahan, Fixe Hardware, Jailhouse
¶ Friday, February 25, 2011 0 Comments
Friday, January 21, 2011
NPS Releases New Bolt Policy Proposal
The Access Fund released news about the National Park Services Bolt and Fixed Anchor Policy proposal. Below is a draft of the Access Fund's press release as well as NPS's climbing specific proposal. Check out the changes, and stay tuned to the Access Fund to voice your opinion on NPS's changes.
Access Fund Press Release:
After years of anticipation and direct advocacy by the Access Fund, the National Park Service has released an updated draft of its wilderness management policies in order to provide accountability, consistency, and continuity in its wilderness stewardship program. The update covers a wide range of topics including the long-waited-for provisions specific to climbing fixed anchors. Iconic climbing areas in the U.S.—including as Yosemite, Zion, Black Canyon, and Rocky Mountain national parks—would be governed by this new policy.
The proposed policy acknowledges that climbing is a legitimate and appropriate use of wilderness and that each park with significant wilderness climbing activities must prepare a climbing management plan. However, the policy calls for climbing to be restricted or prohibited if unacceptable impacts to wilderness resources or character occur.
This proposed policy recognizes that the occasional placement of a fixed anchor for belay, rappel, or protection purposes does not necessarily impair wilderness, but it requires prior authorization for the placement of new fixed anchors (replacements or removals may also require park approval). The requirements and process for authorization are to be laid out in each park’s climbing management plan.
The practical outcome of this proposed policy is that climbers would need a permit or some other authorization prior to the hand-placement of new bolts in any national park wilderness area. Most parks currently require no such prior-approval. The public will have 60 days to comment on this proposed policy revision. The Access Fund is currently analyzing the policy and working on an advocacy strategy. Stay tuned to Access Fund E-news for our position statement and an action alert for climber comments
NPS's policy proposal
7.2 Climbing
For the purpose of this Order, climbing is defined to include rock climbing, snow and ice climbing,mountaineering, canyoneering and caving, where climbing equipment, such as ropes and fixed or removable anchors, is generally used to support an ascent or descent. Climbing is in many cases a legitimate and appropriate use of wilderness. However, any climbing use or related activity must be restricted or prohibited when its occurrence, continuation or expansion would result in unacceptable impacts or impairment to wilderness resources or character, or interfere significantly with the experience
of other park visitors. The criteria under which a superintendent will make closure or restriction determination are listed in 36 CFR 1.5.
If significant climbing activities occur in wilderness, a climbing management plan must be prepared or be included as part of the park's wilderness stewardship plan or another activity level plan. Plans will be developed with the aid of public involvement and collaboration and will include public review and comment.
The occasional placement of a fixed anchor for belay, rappel or protecti on purposes does not necessarily impair the future enjoyment of wilderness or violate the Wilderness Act. However, climbing practices with the least adverse impact on wilderness resources and character will always be the preferred choice. "Clean climbing" techniques should be the norm in wilderness. This involves the use of temporary equipment and anchors that can be placed and removed without altering the environment (e.g. slings, cams, nuts, chocks, and stoppers). The use of motorized equipment (e.g. power drills) is prohibited (36 CFR 2.12). Practices such as gluing or chipping holds, and damaging or removing vegetation on or at the base of climbing routes are prohibited (36 CFR 2.1).
Climbers are encouraged to adopt Leave No Trace principals and practices, to include packing out human waste when on or in the vicinity of climbing routes.
Proposals for the placement of fixed anchors or fixed equipment for the purpose of facilitating future rescue operations should be evaluated through minimum requirements analysis.
Fixed anchors or fixed equipment may be appropriate, but should be rare in wilderness.
o Authorization will be required for the placement of new fixed anchors or fixed equipment.
o Authorization may be required for the replacement of existing fixed anchors or fixed
equipment.
o Authorization may be required for the removal of existing fixed anchors or fixed equipment.
The requirements for authorization, and the process to be followed, will be effected through an approved climbing management plan.
Management strategies to control, and in some cases reduce, proliferation of fixed anchors in wilderness must be developed and articulated in a park climbing management plan.
The establishment of bolt-intensive face climbs, such as “sport climbs,” is considered incompatible with wilderness preservation and management due to the concentration of human activity which they support, and the types and level of impacts associated with the development of such routes.
Wilderness climbing education and impact monitoring will be important components in climbing management programs.
Access Fund Press Release:
After years of anticipation and direct advocacy by the Access Fund, the National Park Service has released an updated draft of its wilderness management policies in order to provide accountability, consistency, and continuity in its wilderness stewardship program. The update covers a wide range of topics including the long-waited-for provisions specific to climbing fixed anchors. Iconic climbing areas in the U.S.—including as Yosemite, Zion, Black Canyon, and Rocky Mountain national parks—would be governed by this new policy.
The proposed policy acknowledges that climbing is a legitimate and appropriate use of wilderness and that each park with significant wilderness climbing activities must prepare a climbing management plan. However, the policy calls for climbing to be restricted or prohibited if unacceptable impacts to wilderness resources or character occur.
This proposed policy recognizes that the occasional placement of a fixed anchor for belay, rappel, or protection purposes does not necessarily impair wilderness, but it requires prior authorization for the placement of new fixed anchors (replacements or removals may also require park approval). The requirements and process for authorization are to be laid out in each park’s climbing management plan.
The practical outcome of this proposed policy is that climbers would need a permit or some other authorization prior to the hand-placement of new bolts in any national park wilderness area. Most parks currently require no such prior-approval. The public will have 60 days to comment on this proposed policy revision. The Access Fund is currently analyzing the policy and working on an advocacy strategy. Stay tuned to Access Fund E-news for our position statement and an action alert for climber comments
NPS's policy proposal
7.2 Climbing
For the purpose of this Order, climbing is defined to include rock climbing, snow and ice climbing,mountaineering, canyoneering and caving, where climbing equipment, such as ropes and fixed or removable anchors, is generally used to support an ascent or descent. Climbing is in many cases a legitimate and appropriate use of wilderness. However, any climbing use or related activity must be restricted or prohibited when its occurrence, continuation or expansion would result in unacceptable impacts or impairment to wilderness resources or character, or interfere significantly with the experience
of other park visitors. The criteria under which a superintendent will make closure or restriction determination are listed in 36 CFR 1.5.
If significant climbing activities occur in wilderness, a climbing management plan must be prepared or be included as part of the park's wilderness stewardship plan or another activity level plan. Plans will be developed with the aid of public involvement and collaboration and will include public review and comment.
The occasional placement of a fixed anchor for belay, rappel or protecti on purposes does not necessarily impair the future enjoyment of wilderness or violate the Wilderness Act. However, climbing practices with the least adverse impact on wilderness resources and character will always be the preferred choice. "Clean climbing" techniques should be the norm in wilderness. This involves the use of temporary equipment and anchors that can be placed and removed without altering the environment (e.g. slings, cams, nuts, chocks, and stoppers). The use of motorized equipment (e.g. power drills) is prohibited (36 CFR 2.12). Practices such as gluing or chipping holds, and damaging or removing vegetation on or at the base of climbing routes are prohibited (36 CFR 2.1).
Climbers are encouraged to adopt Leave No Trace principals and practices, to include packing out human waste when on or in the vicinity of climbing routes.
Proposals for the placement of fixed anchors or fixed equipment for the purpose of facilitating future rescue operations should be evaluated through minimum requirements analysis.
Fixed anchors or fixed equipment may be appropriate, but should be rare in wilderness.
o Authorization will be required for the placement of new fixed anchors or fixed equipment.
o Authorization may be required for the replacement of existing fixed anchors or fixed
equipment.
o Authorization may be required for the removal of existing fixed anchors or fixed equipment.
The requirements for authorization, and the process to be followed, will be effected through an approved climbing management plan.
Management strategies to control, and in some cases reduce, proliferation of fixed anchors in wilderness must be developed and articulated in a park climbing management plan.
The establishment of bolt-intensive face climbs, such as “sport climbs,” is considered incompatible with wilderness preservation and management due to the concentration of human activity which they support, and the types and level of impacts associated with the development of such routes.
Wilderness climbing education and impact monitoring will be important components in climbing management programs.
Labels: Access Fund, bolt policy, NPS
¶ Friday, January 21, 2011 0 Comments
Sunday, January 9, 2011
Local Climber Receives the Berbie Leadership Award
On January 5, 2011 The Access Fund recognized the 2010 winners of the Sharp End Awards. El Cerrito climber Tom Addison, a 48 year old environmental lobbyist, was awarded the Bebie Leadership award for his outstanding efforts in protecting Jailhouse Rock in Sonora.
The Bebie Leadership Award honors America's activists who help preserve climbing access and the environment. Since the early 1990s, Addison worked with multiple owners, the county, and the climbing community to ensure permanent access and a permanent easement to the crag. Addison is currently working to help build a new parking lot, trail, and start a fund to ensure permanent access to Jailhouse. Please support Tom and the Unlock Jailhouse Fund.
Tom Addison, the Warden, at Jailhouse Rock.
There will be a number of upcoming fundraisers as well as online auction to support the crag. Touchstone is a big supporter of the Unlock Jailhouse foundation.
Congratulations to Tom for his continued support of great issues in the climbing community.
The Bebie Leadership Award honors America's activists who help preserve climbing access and the environment. Since the early 1990s, Addison worked with multiple owners, the county, and the climbing community to ensure permanent access and a permanent easement to the crag. Addison is currently working to help build a new parking lot, trail, and start a fund to ensure permanent access to Jailhouse. Please support Tom and the Unlock Jailhouse Fund.
Tom Addison, the Warden, at Jailhouse Rock.
There will be a number of upcoming fundraisers as well as online auction to support the crag. Touchstone is a big supporter of the Unlock Jailhouse foundation.
Congratulations to Tom for his continued support of great issues in the climbing community.
Labels: Access Fund, Tom Addison, Unlock Jailhouse
¶ Sunday, January 09, 2011 0 Comments
Friday, November 19, 2010
Columns of Hope: How Recycling Ropes Can Help
On October 28th, The Columns of Hope, by April Lemly, showed as part of the Surviving and Thriving Exhibit at a gallery on San Francisco’s Minna street. The benefit art show helped two Bay area organizations, San Francisco Women Against Rape (SFWAR) and Women Inc. The organizations support female survivors of domestic violence and sexual assault. Touchstone climbing gyms donated a number of 100-150 foot ropes, which Lemly hung from the rigging of the room, placed clothespins on, and attached notes to the hanging ropes. The interactive exhibit encouraged viewers to place note cards on the ropes with an emphasis on the “pay it forward” aspect of the piece. The ropes represented struggle, hope, and ultimately freedom.
The exhibit was designed specifically for the space, though Lemly hopes that it will be installed elsewhere. The entire exhibit was recycled, thanks to Touchstone’s donation. “It was really lovely to see this rope that has such a short lifespan really, have a completely different role,” wrote Lemly in a note to Touchstone.
Recycling ropes have helped a number of organizations. For the month of December, the Access Fund will be collecting old ropes and donating $10 to a local access for each rope they collect. Drop off your old ropes at any Touchstone gym. Help art projects like the Columns of Hope, and help access at your local crag.
The exhibit was designed specifically for the space, though Lemly hopes that it will be installed elsewhere. The entire exhibit was recycled, thanks to Touchstone’s donation. “It was really lovely to see this rope that has such a short lifespan really, have a completely different role,” wrote Lemly in a note to Touchstone.
Recycling ropes have helped a number of organizations. For the month of December, the Access Fund will be collecting old ropes and donating $10 to a local access for each rope they collect. Drop off your old ropes at any Touchstone gym. Help art projects like the Columns of Hope, and help access at your local crag.
Labels: Access Fund, recycling ropes, SFWAR
¶ Friday, November 19, 2010 0 Comments
Thursday, November 18, 2010
Unlock Jailhouse: Help Ensure One of California's Best Sport Crags Stays Open
This morning, November 17th, the Access Fund and the private owners of the overhanging basalt of Jailhouse in Sonora came to an agreement allowing climbers permanent access. The crag, which boasts nearly 100 routes 5.11d and harder, has the highest concentration of difficult sport climb on a single cliff in America. The world renown crag has been kept private since its discovery in agreement with the land owners about access. The Access Fund worked with the owners to secure permanent access to the cliff for climbers.
Along with the access, there will be improvements needed to the trail and parking lot to the cliff. The Access Fund is asking for support from the climbing community. Please give to the Unlock Jailhouse fund today!
Below is the Access Fund's announcement:
The Access Fund is pleased to announce permanent access has been secured to Jailhouse Rock near Sonora, California through the Access Fund Land Conservation Campaign. However more help is needed from the climbing community for long-term conservation.
While private landowners have historically allowed climbing at Jailhouse (named after a nearby state penitentiary), a recently approved subdivision which included the trailhead and initial approach trail threatened future access. Plans to further subdivide the land adjacent to Jailhouse in the coming years could have blocked access even further, since the trail would need to cross multiple new lots purchased by private landowners who may be less inclined to grant public access.
With the future access to Jailhouse at risk by a quickly approaching subdivision, local climber and long-time access supporter Tom Addison contacted the Access Fund and the landowner for help. After several months of working with the landowners, the Access Fund reached an agreement to protect Jailhouse Rock through a complex conservation development partnership. A short-term $100,000 Access Fund Land Conservation Campaign loan will secure a conservation and access easement, ensuring permanent protection and access to Jailhouse Rock. Local climber and investor Steve Russell is giving his support by providing short-term capital to the Land Conservation Campaign for this project. However the Access Fund will need donor support for the access implementation and long-term conservation phase.
Jailhouse Rock boasts up to 200 feet of overhanging amphitheater on the western face of a basalt lava flow known locally as Table Rock. “For 12+ and harder routes, Jailhouse offers arguably the best winter stamina sport climbing in the West,” states Tom Addison, who has been climbing at Jailhouse Rock and maintaining positive relations with landowners since 1990.
Jailhouse Rock is a major resource for the Bay Area, Yosemite, and Sacramento climbing communities during the fall, winter, and spring months when other sport crags are covered in snow. “Jailhouse has been formative in my climbing,” says pro athlete Alex Honnold. “It has one of the best concentrations of hard routes in the country, as well as one of the best climates. You can climb there any day between September and June without even having to check the weather. It's an amazing crag.”
Although popular, climbers had previously kept a “no guidebook, no publicity” policy at the request of the private landowners. While this will no longer be a stringent policy, climbers are asked to respect the fact that Jailhouse is still on private land. While the Access Fund has secured a conservation easement to protect climbing access, it is more important than ever to maintain a good relationship with the landowners.
The work is far from over
Although Jailhouse is now technically protected under a conservation easement, the current approach trail still crosses private land, which is up for sale. And the historical parking area is also subject to break-ins and misuse by non-climbers looking to access Tulloch Lake for partying or swimming.
The Access Fund has secured a route to the cliffs through a different access point, but it still needs your donations to secure the funding needed to build a new parking area with trailhead facilities, pay for the construction of a security gate, as well as cover legal, surveying, and other transactional costs.
Please give to the Unlock Jailhouse fund today (www.accessfund.org/jailhouse)! The Access Fund needs to raise $40,000 in the next 12 months to cover the expenses necessary to provide the new access point and protect and steward Jailhouse forever.
Access details
The existing parking area and access trail will remain open for the immediate future. Once the new gate, parking area, and trailhead are funded and built, the old access route will be restored to natural conditions and closed. At that time, climbers will need a gate code to access the cliffs, since the area is leased for grazing horses. Stay tuned for updated access information, including the code and important conditions of access, www.accessfund.org.
Special thanks to the landowners, Marta and Steve Weinstein, who have graciously allowed climbing at Jailhouse for the last 12 years and will continue to own the property and work with climbers to ensure that Jailhouse Rock remains in its current and natural state. Without the local expertise, passion, and dedication of local climbers Tom Addison, Brian Poulsen, and Access Fund Regional Coordinator Paul Minault, this victory for the climbing community would not have been possible.
Along with the access, there will be improvements needed to the trail and parking lot to the cliff. The Access Fund is asking for support from the climbing community. Please give to the Unlock Jailhouse fund today!
Below is the Access Fund's announcement:
The Access Fund is pleased to announce permanent access has been secured to Jailhouse Rock near Sonora, California through the Access Fund Land Conservation Campaign. However more help is needed from the climbing community for long-term conservation.
While private landowners have historically allowed climbing at Jailhouse (named after a nearby state penitentiary), a recently approved subdivision which included the trailhead and initial approach trail threatened future access. Plans to further subdivide the land adjacent to Jailhouse in the coming years could have blocked access even further, since the trail would need to cross multiple new lots purchased by private landowners who may be less inclined to grant public access.
With the future access to Jailhouse at risk by a quickly approaching subdivision, local climber and long-time access supporter Tom Addison contacted the Access Fund and the landowner for help. After several months of working with the landowners, the Access Fund reached an agreement to protect Jailhouse Rock through a complex conservation development partnership. A short-term $100,000 Access Fund Land Conservation Campaign loan will secure a conservation and access easement, ensuring permanent protection and access to Jailhouse Rock. Local climber and investor Steve Russell is giving his support by providing short-term capital to the Land Conservation Campaign for this project. However the Access Fund will need donor support for the access implementation and long-term conservation phase.
Jailhouse Rock boasts up to 200 feet of overhanging amphitheater on the western face of a basalt lava flow known locally as Table Rock. “For 12+ and harder routes, Jailhouse offers arguably the best winter stamina sport climbing in the West,” states Tom Addison, who has been climbing at Jailhouse Rock and maintaining positive relations with landowners since 1990.
Jailhouse Rock is a major resource for the Bay Area, Yosemite, and Sacramento climbing communities during the fall, winter, and spring months when other sport crags are covered in snow. “Jailhouse has been formative in my climbing,” says pro athlete Alex Honnold. “It has one of the best concentrations of hard routes in the country, as well as one of the best climates. You can climb there any day between September and June without even having to check the weather. It's an amazing crag.”
Although popular, climbers had previously kept a “no guidebook, no publicity” policy at the request of the private landowners. While this will no longer be a stringent policy, climbers are asked to respect the fact that Jailhouse is still on private land. While the Access Fund has secured a conservation easement to protect climbing access, it is more important than ever to maintain a good relationship with the landowners.
The work is far from over
Although Jailhouse is now technically protected under a conservation easement, the current approach trail still crosses private land, which is up for sale. And the historical parking area is also subject to break-ins and misuse by non-climbers looking to access Tulloch Lake for partying or swimming.
The Access Fund has secured a route to the cliffs through a different access point, but it still needs your donations to secure the funding needed to build a new parking area with trailhead facilities, pay for the construction of a security gate, as well as cover legal, surveying, and other transactional costs.
Please give to the Unlock Jailhouse fund today (www.accessfund.org/jailhouse)! The Access Fund needs to raise $40,000 in the next 12 months to cover the expenses necessary to provide the new access point and protect and steward Jailhouse forever.
Access details
The existing parking area and access trail will remain open for the immediate future. Once the new gate, parking area, and trailhead are funded and built, the old access route will be restored to natural conditions and closed. At that time, climbers will need a gate code to access the cliffs, since the area is leased for grazing horses. Stay tuned for updated access information, including the code and important conditions of access, www.accessfund.org.
Special thanks to the landowners, Marta and Steve Weinstein, who have graciously allowed climbing at Jailhouse for the last 12 years and will continue to own the property and work with climbers to ensure that Jailhouse Rock remains in its current and natural state. Without the local expertise, passion, and dedication of local climbers Tom Addison, Brian Poulsen, and Access Fund Regional Coordinator Paul Minault, this victory for the climbing community would not have been possible.
Labels: Access Fund, Jailhouse, Tom Addison
¶ Thursday, November 18, 2010 0 Comments
Monday, July 19, 2010
Treading Lightly- How to Minimize Impact
While climbers generally are a low-impact user group of the nation's parks and private lands, they do create trash, erosion, and negatively affect the pristine climbing areas. The best way to avoid trashing all the great climbing areas in California, from Mortar Rock to Yosemite National Park, is to minimize your impact. The Access Fund recently put together a great list of how to tread lightly and keep access secured in sensitive climbing areas. Help keep climbing areas clean.
Stay on established trails – Even if the trail is not the most direct line to the base of a route or boulder, avoid the temptation to blaze your own path. Hiking off trail promotes erosion and destroys vegetation.
Keep a low profile We know that route you’re working requires a lot of moxie, but yelling, swearing, screaming beta at your partner, and even playing music at the crag can seriously disrupt those around you, including the landowner.
Clean up excess chalk – Chalk is a necessary part of climbing, but it also creates visual evidence of climber impact. Clean up spills and brush off tick marks after each session.
Respect closures – Respecting the wildlife (e.g., nesting birds) and cultural resource (e.g., petroglyphs) closures will help ensure that they don’t turn into unreasonable closures. Visit www.status.accessfund.org
for an updated list of closures and restrictions across the country.
Keep tabs on your dog – Dogs at the crag can have a serious impact on climbing access due to their ability to disturb the peace of those around them, including that of the landowner. Consider leaving Fido at home. If you must bring your dog to the crag, keep it with you at all times, control its barking, and clean up after it.
Pack it out – Don’t trash the crag. Carry an extra plastic bag and pack out your own trash (yes, even climbing tape counts). Human waste counts too—do your business away from cliffs, boulders, trails, and water sources and pack it out. For AF member discounts on Restop bags, visit www.accessfund.org/memberdiscounts.
Pad and tread lightly – We know you’re focused on sending that sweet boulder problem, but remember to think about the life on the ground around you. Avoid trampling or throwing crash pads on vegetation.
Educate others KINDLY – If you see someone hiking off trail, blaring music, or throwing trash on the ground, kindly let them know that their actions could threaten access for everyone. In many cases people simply don’t
recognize that their actions might negatively impact the environment or access to the area.
Stay on established trails – Even if the trail is not the most direct line to the base of a route or boulder, avoid the temptation to blaze your own path. Hiking off trail promotes erosion and destroys vegetation.
Keep a low profile We know that route you’re working requires a lot of moxie, but yelling, swearing, screaming beta at your partner, and even playing music at the crag can seriously disrupt those around you, including the landowner.
Clean up excess chalk – Chalk is a necessary part of climbing, but it also creates visual evidence of climber impact. Clean up spills and brush off tick marks after each session.
Respect closures – Respecting the wildlife (e.g., nesting birds) and cultural resource (e.g., petroglyphs) closures will help ensure that they don’t turn into unreasonable closures. Visit www.status.accessfund.org
for an updated list of closures and restrictions across the country.
Keep tabs on your dog – Dogs at the crag can have a serious impact on climbing access due to their ability to disturb the peace of those around them, including that of the landowner. Consider leaving Fido at home. If you must bring your dog to the crag, keep it with you at all times, control its barking, and clean up after it.
Pack it out – Don’t trash the crag. Carry an extra plastic bag and pack out your own trash (yes, even climbing tape counts). Human waste counts too—do your business away from cliffs, boulders, trails, and water sources and pack it out. For AF member discounts on Restop bags, visit www.accessfund.org/memberdiscounts.
Pad and tread lightly – We know you’re focused on sending that sweet boulder problem, but remember to think about the life on the ground around you. Avoid trampling or throwing crash pads on vegetation.
Educate others KINDLY – If you see someone hiking off trail, blaring music, or throwing trash on the ground, kindly let them know that their actions could threaten access for everyone. In many cases people simply don’t
recognize that their actions might negatively impact the environment or access to the area.
Labels: Access Fund, crag access, trail erosion
¶ Monday, July 19, 2010 0 Comments
Tuesday, June 15, 2010
Yosemite Access: Voice Your Opinion on the Merced River Plan
Access to National Parks, specifically climbing access to Yosemite, has been a delicate subject for years. One of the biggest concerns within the past year was the Merced River Plan.
In January, the Access Fund petitioned for help to protect climbing in accordance with Yosemite National Park's latest Merced River Plan (MRP), which looked like it could limit access to a number of climbing areas- anything within 1/4 mile of either side of the Merced. According to the Access Fund, the plan will also affect locations, "just outside the river corridor, which brings into play all climbing in Yosemite Valley including El Capitan and even Half Dome."
The Access Fund continued their report stating, "The park recently announced in its “Outstanding Remarkable Value” report that it recognizes the recreational significance of Yosemite Valley, and specifically acknowledges climbing as an active pursuit that draws people from around the world. This is important because climbing as an activity is now more likely to be “protected and enhanced” rather than restricted."
The Park will hold public workshops and roundtables on their draft “Outstanding Remarkable Value” report, which will include discussions with Yosemite planners and user capacity experts.
On June 28, from 5-8 pm at the San Ramon City Council Chamber,
2228 Camino Ramon, San Ramon, CA, there will be a meeting to discuss the plan. Touchstone Members, Bay area climbers, and any Yosemite user are encouraged to attend the meeting and make their voice heard. Help keep access to Yosemite open!
For more information, email Jason@accessfund.org
In January, the Access Fund petitioned for help to protect climbing in accordance with Yosemite National Park's latest Merced River Plan (MRP), which looked like it could limit access to a number of climbing areas- anything within 1/4 mile of either side of the Merced. According to the Access Fund, the plan will also affect locations, "just outside the river corridor, which brings into play all climbing in Yosemite Valley including El Capitan and even Half Dome."
The Access Fund continued their report stating, "The park recently announced in its “Outstanding Remarkable Value” report that it recognizes the recreational significance of Yosemite Valley, and specifically acknowledges climbing as an active pursuit that draws people from around the world. This is important because climbing as an activity is now more likely to be “protected and enhanced” rather than restricted."
The Park will hold public workshops and roundtables on their draft “Outstanding Remarkable Value” report, which will include discussions with Yosemite planners and user capacity experts.
On June 28, from 5-8 pm at the San Ramon City Council Chamber,
2228 Camino Ramon, San Ramon, CA, there will be a meeting to discuss the plan. Touchstone Members, Bay area climbers, and any Yosemite user are encouraged to attend the meeting and make their voice heard. Help keep access to Yosemite open!
For more information, email Jason@accessfund.org
Labels: Access Fund, Merced River Plan, Yosemite Access
¶ Tuesday, June 15, 2010 0 Comments
Friday, April 16, 2010
Save Red Rocks
The Access Fund recently posted an article on their website about a threat to climber access at Red Rocks, the climbing area outside Las Vegas Nevada.
An upcoming zoning exception could turn the few acres left between the grid of Las Vegas and Red Rocks into a housing development, forever changing the views from your favorite multi-pitch Red Rock climbs. In 2002, the Access Fund helped defeat a proposal to build 8,400 homes—including a school, golf course and businesses—on Blue Diamond Hill across the road from the world class climbing at Red Rocks. Now the notorious Rhodes Development (responsible for the ugly tract homes creeping towards Red Rocks) is close to receiving county approval that could lead to a 1,700-acre McMansion project. This is the kind of housing development eyesore that Blue Diamond residents and Red Rocks visitors have opposed for years.
On April 21, Clark County will vote on an exception to a local ordinance that prevents developments of more than two homes per acre on the land within the Red Rock Overlay District. If this zoning exception is granted, the development on Blue Diamond Hill could go forward, and the few acres left between the grid of Las Vegas and Red Rocks will be filled with million-dollar homes.
Some critics think that this effort to ease zoning restrictions is just a ploy to raise property values and thus enable the Rhodes Development to milk taxpayers for more money if the federal government is forced to buy the property to protect scenic values at Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. The Access Fund is working with local Las Vegas climbers and conservation groups to again defeat this proposal. To get more information, contact the Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and Save Red Rock Canyon.
Sign the Petition:
An upcoming zoning exception could turn the few acres left between the grid of Las Vegas and Red Rocks into a housing development, forever changing the views from your favorite multi-pitch Red Rock climbs. In 2002, the Access Fund helped defeat a proposal to build 8,400 homes—including a school, golf course and businesses—on Blue Diamond Hill across the road from the world class climbing at Red Rocks. Now the notorious Rhodes Development (responsible for the ugly tract homes creeping towards Red Rocks) is close to receiving county approval that could lead to a 1,700-acre McMansion project. This is the kind of housing development eyesore that Blue Diamond residents and Red Rocks visitors have opposed for years.
On April 21, Clark County will vote on an exception to a local ordinance that prevents developments of more than two homes per acre on the land within the Red Rock Overlay District. If this zoning exception is granted, the development on Blue Diamond Hill could go forward, and the few acres left between the grid of Las Vegas and Red Rocks will be filled with million-dollar homes.
Some critics think that this effort to ease zoning restrictions is just a ploy to raise property values and thus enable the Rhodes Development to milk taxpayers for more money if the federal government is forced to buy the property to protect scenic values at Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. The Access Fund is working with local Las Vegas climbers and conservation groups to again defeat this proposal. To get more information, contact the Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and Save Red Rock Canyon.
Sign the Petition:
Labels: Access Fund, Blue Diamond Development, Red Rocks
¶ Friday, April 16, 2010 0 Comments
Friday, January 29, 2010
Yosemite Restrictions- Climbing Access and Hiking Permits
The Access Fund, an organization that helps to protect crag and climbing area access, released a statement regarding the future Merced River Plan, which will affect significant amounts of climbing in Yosemite National Park.
"We need your help to influence the latest Merced River Plan, which could restrict climbing access and camping in Yosemite Valley, depending on how the Park prepares its new revised user capacity program. At issue is access to iconic climbs including those found on The Rostrum, Cookie Cliff, and Middle Cathedral Rock (everything ¼ mile on either side of the river). This plan will also affect all travel through the management area to locations just outside the river corridor, which brings into play all climbing in Yosemite Valley including El Capitan and even Half Dome. Another consequence of this litigation is the increased likelihood that camping will become even more scarce while the number of lodging units remains largely unchanged.
Please write Yosemite National Park by February 4 and support the preservation of climbing access in the Valley! With our easy-to-use letter writing tool, it only takes two minutes to make your voice heard.
Thanks for your support
Your Friends at the Access Fund"
The Merced River and Liberty Bell
Also, the National Park Service has issued a notice requiring permits for weekend Half Dome hikers. This permit system affects hikers mostly as NPS stated, "Rock climbers who reach the top of Half Dome without entering the subdome area can descend on the Half Dome Trail without a permit." Those who top out Snake Dike or the Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome will not require a permit.
Read the comments Jesse McGahey, The Yosemite Climbing Ranger and Liason, made regarding the permit system on Supertopo.com.
Half Dome Hiking Permits
Permits to hike to the top of Half Dome are now required on Fridays, Saturdays, Sundays, and federal holidays when the cables are up. This is an interim measure to increase safety along the cables while the park develops a long-term plan to manage use on the Half Dome Trail.
Beginning in 2010, all people using the Half Dome Trail above the subdome must have a permit in possession on Fridays, Saturdays, Sundays, and federal holidays when the cables are up. A maximum of 400 permits will be issued each of these days. (Before the permit system, fewer than 400 people used this trail on weekdays, while about 800 people used this trail on weekends and holidays, on average.)
In 2010, permits are available up to about four months in advance to one week in advance only through the National Recreation Reservation Service. Permits are not available in the park or on a first-come, first-served basis. Demand for permits will be very high; availability may last only a matter of minutes on the first day permits become available.
Note: Backpackers with an appropriate wilderness permit can receive a Half Dome permit when they pick up their wilderness permit with no additional reservation required. Rock climbers who reach the top of Half Dome without entering the subdome area can descend on the Half Dome Trail without a permit.
The Half Dome Cables are usually in place and available for use the third Friday in May, conditions permitting. The last day to use them usually is Columbus Day Monday. We can not guarantee the cables will be available on any given date. If you choose to get a permit for dates in May or October, there is an increased chance the cables will not be in place.
If you are unable to hike Half Dome for any reason (including weather, cables not available, illness, etc.) on the day you have a permit, we will not be able to provide a permit for a different date.
"We need your help to influence the latest Merced River Plan, which could restrict climbing access and camping in Yosemite Valley, depending on how the Park prepares its new revised user capacity program. At issue is access to iconic climbs including those found on The Rostrum, Cookie Cliff, and Middle Cathedral Rock (everything ¼ mile on either side of the river). This plan will also affect all travel through the management area to locations just outside the river corridor, which brings into play all climbing in Yosemite Valley including El Capitan and even Half Dome. Another consequence of this litigation is the increased likelihood that camping will become even more scarce while the number of lodging units remains largely unchanged.
Please write Yosemite National Park by February 4 and support the preservation of climbing access in the Valley! With our easy-to-use letter writing tool, it only takes two minutes to make your voice heard.
Thanks for your support
Your Friends at the Access Fund"
The Merced River and Liberty Bell
Also, the National Park Service has issued a notice requiring permits for weekend Half Dome hikers. This permit system affects hikers mostly as NPS stated, "Rock climbers who reach the top of Half Dome without entering the subdome area can descend on the Half Dome Trail without a permit." Those who top out Snake Dike or the Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome will not require a permit.
Read the comments Jesse McGahey, The Yosemite Climbing Ranger and Liason, made regarding the permit system on Supertopo.com.
Half Dome Hiking Permits
Permits to hike to the top of Half Dome are now required on Fridays, Saturdays, Sundays, and federal holidays when the cables are up. This is an interim measure to increase safety along the cables while the park develops a long-term plan to manage use on the Half Dome Trail.
Beginning in 2010, all people using the Half Dome Trail above the subdome must have a permit in possession on Fridays, Saturdays, Sundays, and federal holidays when the cables are up. A maximum of 400 permits will be issued each of these days. (Before the permit system, fewer than 400 people used this trail on weekdays, while about 800 people used this trail on weekends and holidays, on average.)
In 2010, permits are available up to about four months in advance to one week in advance only through the National Recreation Reservation Service. Permits are not available in the park or on a first-come, first-served basis. Demand for permits will be very high; availability may last only a matter of minutes on the first day permits become available.
Note: Backpackers with an appropriate wilderness permit can receive a Half Dome permit when they pick up their wilderness permit with no additional reservation required. Rock climbers who reach the top of Half Dome without entering the subdome area can descend on the Half Dome Trail without a permit.
The Half Dome Cables are usually in place and available for use the third Friday in May, conditions permitting. The last day to use them usually is Columbus Day Monday. We can not guarantee the cables will be available on any given date. If you choose to get a permit for dates in May or October, there is an increased chance the cables will not be in place.
If you are unable to hike Half Dome for any reason (including weather, cables not available, illness, etc.) on the day you have a permit, we will not be able to provide a permit for a different date.
Labels: Access Fund, NPS, Yosemite Access
¶ Friday, January 29, 2010 0 Comments
Monday, December 21, 2009
Blind on the Naked Edge
Erik Weihenmayer climbed Eldorado Canyon's Naked Edge, a difficult 5.11 face and crack route in Boulder Colorado, earlier this year to help support the Access Fund. Erik is an accomplished climber despite his handicaps. He offers some great insight into climbing without sight. Check out this inspiring video.
Labels: Access Fund, Erik Weihenmayer, Naked Edge
¶ Monday, December 21, 2009 0 Comments
Thursday, December 10, 2009
Save The Future of Climbing: Access Fund Drive
The Access Fund Membership driving is going on at all the Touchstone Gyms until December 18th. The AF is giving everyone a discounted membership rate of $25. On top of that if you sign up at a Touchstone gym before the end of this you will be entered into a raffle to win get prizes including: a free pair of La Sportiva Shoes, free month membership to Touchstone climbing gyms (3 of these will be raffled off), Vaude daypacks, and Access Fund t-shirts!.
The Access Fund has helped Climbing in numerous ways including help save Yosemite's Camp 4, and getting it into the National Historic Registry. The Access Fund in partnership with local organizations constructed a pit toilet at the Buttermilks in Bishop. The organization helped keep the State parks open, supported the Yosemite Facelift, and help organized 20 different Adopt-a-Crag's in the nation.
The Access Fund is a national advocacy organization that keeps US climbing areas open and conserves the climbing environment. Founded in 1991, the Access fund supports and represents 1.6 million climbers nationwide in all forms of climbing. For more information check out the Access Fund homepage or the Boulder Project.
The Access Fund has helped Climbing in numerous ways including help save Yosemite's Camp 4, and getting it into the National Historic Registry. The Access Fund in partnership with local organizations constructed a pit toilet at the Buttermilks in Bishop. The organization helped keep the State parks open, supported the Yosemite Facelift, and help organized 20 different Adopt-a-Crag's in the nation.
The Access Fund is a national advocacy organization that keeps US climbing areas open and conserves the climbing environment. Founded in 1991, the Access fund supports and represents 1.6 million climbers nationwide in all forms of climbing. For more information check out the Access Fund homepage or the Boulder Project.
Labels: Access Fund, Boulder Project, Touchstone Gym Raffle
¶ Thursday, December 10, 2009 0 Comments
