Touchstone Blog Archive
Thursday, November 10, 2011
  Jailhouse Adopt-A-Crag
On November 12th, the Access Fund is hosting a workday at Jailhouse near Sonora, CA. Over 200 tons of gravel will be laid for a new parking area and road, new fences and gates will be made and the access trail will be improved. The Access Fund is helping to sponsor this Adopt-A-Crag event. Climbers around the bay area will be heading out to help.



Mountain Hardware, Prana, MadRock and more have generously donated everything from deluxe packs to a sleeping bag to lots of chalkbags, hats, T-shirts, yoga mat, and a whole lot more stuff. Climbers volunteering will be eligible for some of this great stuff!

Also, as of that day, the access to the crag will change. New access will be through a gate off O'Byrnes Ferry Road, which will be locked. To get in through the gate, you'll need the combination. That will be posted here:

Jailhouse Access Fund

The terms of the new easement require that climbers follow a few guidelines- No dogs, music, fires or camping are allowed. Also, per the owner's request, please don't park outside of the new access gate. Until Nov. 12th, park by the bridge and approach the cliff by the old traditional hike up the steep hill.

Stop by Jailhouse on November 12th to help out at one of the US's and Bay Area's premiere sport climbing crags.

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Thursday, October 20, 2011
  Jailhouse Adopt-A-Crag
On November 12th, the Access Fund is hosting a workday at Jailhouse near Sonora, CA. Over 200 tons of gravel will be laid for a new parking area and road, new fences and gates will be made and the access trail will be improved. The Access Fund is helping to sponsor this Adopt-A-Crag event. Climbers around the bay area will be heading out to help.



Also, as of that day, the access to the crag will change. New access will be through a gate off O'Byrnes Ferry Road, which will be locked. To get in through the gate, you'll need the combination. That will be posted here:

Jailhouse Access Fund

The terms of the new easement require that climbers follow a few guidelines- No dogs, music, fires or camping are allowed. Also, per the owner's request, please don't park outside of the new access gate. Until Nov. 12th, park by the bridge and approach the cliff by the old traditional hike up the steep hill.

Stop by Jailhouse on November 12th to help out at one of the US's and Bar Area's premiere sport climbing crags.

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Friday, April 15, 2011
  Jailhouse Awarded Conservation Grant
Last week, Jailhouse received a grant from the Conservation Alliance. Check out the details of the grant from the Access Fund.

April 6, 2011. Boulder, CO – The Access Fund, the national advocacy organization that keeps climbing areas open and conserves the climbing environment, is excited to announce that it has been awarded a grant from the Conservation Alliance to secure permanent public access to and long-term conservation of Jailhouse Rock climbing area near Sonora, California.

The Access Fund and local climbers began working with the landowners in August of last year when they learned that future access to this popular climbing area was at risk by a quickly approaching subdivision. It became clear that the Access Fund needed to launch a fundraising campaign to secure permanent access and conservation of the cliff line – the Unlock Jailhouse campaign was launched in November of last year. The Conservation Alliance grant brings a successful end to this fundraising effort.



Thanks to support from the climbing community and the Conservation Alliance, the Access Fund exceeded its fundraising goal, with $75,000 raised to secure a permanent access and conservation easement to the property. The funds will also allow the Access Fund and local volunteers to improve facilities and access, and create a long-term stewardship fund for the property.

The existing parking area and access trail will remain open for the immediate future. The Access Fund will be working with local climbers and the landowners this summer to install a new gate, parking area, trailhead, and toilet facilities, at which point the old access route will be restored to natural conditions and closed. Stay tuned for updated access information, including the code and important conditions of access, www.accessfund.org/jailhouse.

The Access Fund would like to extend a heartfelt thanks to the Conservation Alliance and all of the individual donors and companies who generously opened their wallets to make this climbing access and conservation victory possible.

About the Access Fund
Celebrating its 20th anniversary, the Access Fund is the national advocacy organization that keeps climbing areas open and conserves the climbing environment. The Access Fund supports and represents over 2.3 million climbers nationwide in all forms of climbing: rock climbing, ice climbing, mountaineering, and bouldering. Five core programs support the mission on national and local levels: climbing management policy, stewardship and conservation, local support and mobilization, land acquisition and protection, and education. For more information visit www.accessfund.org.

About the Conservation Alliance
The Conservation Alliance is a group of outdoor industry companies that disburses its collective annual membership dues to grassroots environmental organizations. It directs funding to community-based campaigns to protect threatened wild habitat, preferably where outdoor enthusiasts recreate. The Alliance was founded in 1989 by industry leaders REI, Patagonia, The North Face, and Kelty, who shared the goal of increasing outdoor industry support for conservation efforts.

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Wednesday, April 13, 2011
  Denise Miller: The Tenacious Teacher
Denise Miller, a 36 year old school teacher in Forest Hill outside of Auburn, has been climbing for the past 9 years. A long time Sacramento Pipeworks climber, Miller’s tenacity is well known in the climbing community. With a strong work ethic, Miller has successfully climbed many difficult rock climbs in California.

“Friends of mine thought I’d be interested in climbing,” said Miller about her first time climbing at Sacramento Pipeworks. “I was hooked the first day I went. I thought of myself as pretty good at athletics. I got my butt kicked and got a membership.”


Denise on Electric Chair (5.12d) at Jailhouse Photo by Ben Ditto

Miller and her husband, Rick have traveled abroad to Kalymnos in Greece but spend a significant amount of time at Jailhouse, the steep sport climbing crag in Sonora. It’s so athletic and challenging. Some of our best friends are there. It feels like home there.”

Miller has become a permanent fixture at Jailhouse, climbing every weekend from September to June. “The style of climbing is so unique even though it’s beta intensive and hard to read. It’s really cool when you put something together.”

Miller has dispatched a number of difficult 5.12s at the crag as well Cell Block 5.13- and Fugitive 5.13-. Miller has been trying Alcatraz, a classic 13b at Jailhouse involving technical refrigerator wrestling. She’s progressed from hanging on every draw to two hangs on the route and solid redpoint burns. Denise likes projecting because of the mental aspects involved. “I like believing that you can do it- really pushing yourself and not knowing how far you can push yourself. It’s about overcoming all those mental challenges. There’s a few tears shed here and there but it’s great once you can link all the moves.”


Denise working her summer project Warp Factor 5.13a at Star Wall Donner Summit Photo from the Denise Miller collection

“I visual the moves daily. I’m a lil obsessive but it’s pretty fun,” said Miller about projecting. “I don’t climb for two days before going out there to make sure I’m not over training.” Talking about the core strength needed at the steep crag and getting stronger, Miller said, “It’s exciting to find a weakness because if you train it you climb so much better.”

One of Miller’s greatest strengths is her tenacity. Rock climbing is scary for many of us but Miller faces her fears well. She gets over her fears, “Just by taking falls, by facing phantom fears- the things I shouldn’t be afraid of. The more I fall the more comfortable I get out there.”

Miller has appeared in a recent issue of Rock and Ice, climbing Electric Chair a 5.12d at Jailhouse. Keep an eye out for her and her hard climbing husband at Sacramento Pipeworks and your local crag.

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Friday, February 25, 2011
  Jailhouse Unlocked!
The Access Fund just released news about the current state of affairs of the Unlock Jailhouse Fund-raising campaign. Not only has $49,000 been raised for Jailhouse, but Touchstone has worked with Craig McClenahan and Fixe hardware to replace all the old bolts, draws, and anchors for the crag.

Check out the press release from the Access Fund.



February 25, 2011. Boulder, CO – The Access Fund, the national advocacy organization that keeps climbing areas open and conserves the climbing environment, is thrilled to announce the completion of the initial fundraising phase for Jailhouse Rock. In just over two months, climbers and conservationists from California and beyond have raised over $49,000—exceeding our initial fundraising goal.

In November of last year, the Access Fund announced that a permanent access easement and conservation easement had been secured to Jailhouse Rock near Sonora, California through the Access Fund Land Conservation Campaign. However more help was needed from the climbing community to raise funds to create a new access point, trailhead, parking facilities, and ensure long-term conservation.

Since the initial fundraising phase, the landowners have requested toilet facilities for Jailhouse Rock, and with input from the climbing community Access Fund is exploring the best option for these facilities. Access Fund has applied for a grant from a conservation foundation to cover a portion of the toilet facility costs. The application is pending. Stay tuned to www.accessfund.org/jailhouse for updates.

The Access Fund would like to extend a heartfelt thanks to everyone who generously opened their wallets to make this victory happen. A special thanks to Tom Addison for his fundraising leadership, Planet Granite and Touchstone Climbing and Fitness, as well as all of our corporate partners who donated raffle items. “We are so impressed by the spirit and generosity of the community coming together to protect a threatened crag,” says Access Director Joe Sambataro. Individual donations for Jailhouse Rock will still be accepted and put toward long-term stewardship of the area.

The existing parking area and access trail will remain open for the immediate future. The Access Fund will be working with local climbers and the landowners this year to install a new gate, parking area, and trailhead, at which point the old access route will be restored to natural conditions and closed. At that time, climbers will need a gate code to access the cliffs, since the area is leased for grazing horses. Stay tuned for updated access information, including the code and important conditions of access, www.accessfund.org/jailhouse.

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Wednesday, December 15, 2010
  Donate Ropes and Unlock Jailhouse
The Access Fund is having a rope drive this season. For the month of December, the Access Fund will be collecting old ropes and donating $10 to help secure the access at Jailhouse Drop off your old ropes at any Touchstone gym.

Jailhouse Rock, a basalt sport cliff in Sonora, hosts some of the most difficult routes in the country with a large concentration of routes in the 5.13-5.14+ range. It attracts some of the best climbers in the world and is a local destination for many bay area weekend warriors.


James Lucas lost in the sea of basalt on Fugitive (5.13a)

Jailhouse is privately owned, but the Access Fund has just put together a deal that will let climbers get to and climb at the cliff forever. To close the deal, we need to raise $40K. A press release describing the situation is here:

Please help Unlock Jailhouse and donate your old ropes to your nearest Touchstone Gym!

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Thursday, November 18, 2010
  Unlock Jailhouse: Help Ensure One of California's Best Sport Crags Stays Open
This morning, November 17th, the Access Fund and the private owners of the overhanging basalt of Jailhouse in Sonora came to an agreement allowing climbers permanent access. The crag, which boasts nearly 100 routes 5.11d and harder, has the highest concentration of difficult sport climb on a single cliff in America. The world renown crag has been kept private since its discovery in agreement with the land owners about access. The Access Fund worked with the owners to secure permanent access to the cliff for climbers.

Along with the access, there will be improvements needed to the trail and parking lot to the cliff. The Access Fund is asking for support from the climbing community. Please give to the Unlock Jailhouse fund today!

Below is the Access Fund's announcement:



The Access Fund is pleased to announce permanent access has been secured to Jailhouse Rock near Sonora, California through the Access Fund Land Conservation Campaign. However more help is needed from the climbing community for long-term conservation.

While private landowners have historically allowed climbing at Jailhouse (named after a nearby state penitentiary), a recently approved subdivision which included the trailhead and initial approach trail threatened future access. Plans to further subdivide the land adjacent to Jailhouse in the coming years could have blocked access even further, since the trail would need to cross multiple new lots purchased by private landowners who may be less inclined to grant public access.

With the future access to Jailhouse at risk by a quickly approaching subdivision, local climber and long-time access supporter Tom Addison contacted the Access Fund and the landowner for help. After several months of working with the landowners, the Access Fund reached an agreement to protect Jailhouse Rock through a complex conservation development partnership. A short-term $100,000 Access Fund Land Conservation Campaign loan will secure a conservation and access easement, ensuring permanent protection and access to Jailhouse Rock. Local climber and investor Steve Russell is giving his support by providing short-term capital to the Land Conservation Campaign for this project. However the Access Fund will need donor support for the access implementation and long-term conservation phase.

Jailhouse Rock boasts up to 200 feet of overhanging amphitheater on the western face of a basalt lava flow known locally as Table Rock. “For 12+ and harder routes, Jailhouse offers arguably the best winter stamina sport climbing in the West,” states Tom Addison, who has been climbing at Jailhouse Rock and maintaining positive relations with landowners since 1990.

Jailhouse Rock is a major resource for the Bay Area, Yosemite, and Sacramento climbing communities during the fall, winter, and spring months when other sport crags are covered in snow. “Jailhouse has been formative in my climbing,” says pro athlete Alex Honnold. “It has one of the best concentrations of hard routes in the country, as well as one of the best climates. You can climb there any day between September and June without even having to check the weather. It's an amazing crag.”

Although popular, climbers had previously kept a “no guidebook, no publicity” policy at the request of the private landowners. While this will no longer be a stringent policy, climbers are asked to respect the fact that Jailhouse is still on private land. While the Access Fund has secured a conservation easement to protect climbing access, it is more important than ever to maintain a good relationship with the landowners.

The work is far from over
Although Jailhouse is now technically protected under a conservation easement, the current approach trail still crosses private land, which is up for sale. And the historical parking area is also subject to break-ins and misuse by non-climbers looking to access Tulloch Lake for partying or swimming.

The Access Fund has secured a route to the cliffs through a different access point, but it still needs your donations to secure the funding needed to build a new parking area with trailhead facilities, pay for the construction of a security gate, as well as cover legal, surveying, and other transactional costs.

Please give to the Unlock Jailhouse fund today (www.accessfund.org/jailhouse)! The Access Fund needs to raise $40,000 in the next 12 months to cover the expenses necessary to provide the new access point and protect and steward Jailhouse forever.

Access details
The existing parking area and access trail will remain open for the immediate future. Once the new gate, parking area, and trailhead are funded and built, the old access route will be restored to natural conditions and closed. At that time, climbers will need a gate code to access the cliffs, since the area is leased for grazing horses. Stay tuned for updated access information, including the code and important conditions of access, www.accessfund.org.

Special thanks to the landowners, Marta and Steve Weinstein, who have graciously allowed climbing at Jailhouse for the last 12 years and will continue to own the property and work with climbers to ensure that Jailhouse Rock remains in its current and natural state. Without the local expertise, passion, and dedication of local climbers Tom Addison, Brian Poulsen, and Access Fund Regional Coordinator Paul Minault, this victory for the climbing community would not have been possible.

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