Touchstone Blog Archive
Monday, December 19, 2011
Tips on Highballin
There are a lot of tall boulder problems out there. Problems on the Grandpa Peabody boulder at the Buttermilks, the problems at the Woodyard Arete in Yosemite, and other climbs in between all blur the line between bouldering and soloing.
John Sherman, the author of the second edition of Better Bouldering, put together a video with some useful tips on how to approach highballs.
Lyn Barraza, the manager at Berkeley Ironworks, climbed the highball Secrets of the Beehives at the Pollengrains. Lyn crushed through the bottom difficulties and then carefully climbed through the top sequence. Notice how she searches for the best possible sequence and isn't afraid to return to a rest jug. Lyn climbed this problem ground up and employs tactics similar to onsight climbing on a route.
Earlier this season, Sonnie Trotter made an ascent of the super highball Ambrosia on the Grandpa Peabody. The V11 boulder problem has a difficult start off the ground involving some hard crimps on razor blade holds. Rather than destroy his skin on the initial moves, Trotter used his rocket box to pull on mid way through the problem. He climbed through the next hard sequence and then jumped down. This rehearsal helped him for his send.
When Alex Honnold made his ascent of Ambrosia,he had toproped the top section a number of times. This allowed him to feel confident and move efficiently through the less difficult but scarier top sections. Inspecting the holds, breaking off loose rock, and chalking the rock helps a lot with confidence and moving well high off the ground.
Be careful when you're high balling. The large the fall, the more likely you are to injure yourself. Have lots of pads and spotters. Be comfortable on the grade of the problem you are trying and stay relaxed up there. A calm mind climbs significantly better than a worried one.
Stay safe and have fun!
John Sherman, the author of the second edition of Better Bouldering, put together a video with some useful tips on how to approach highballs.
Lyn Barraza, the manager at Berkeley Ironworks, climbed the highball Secrets of the Beehives at the Pollengrains. Lyn crushed through the bottom difficulties and then carefully climbed through the top sequence. Notice how she searches for the best possible sequence and isn't afraid to return to a rest jug. Lyn climbed this problem ground up and employs tactics similar to onsight climbing on a route.
Secrets of the Beehive [v6] from Paul B on Vimeo.
Earlier this season, Sonnie Trotter made an ascent of the super highball Ambrosia on the Grandpa Peabody. The V11 boulder problem has a difficult start off the ground involving some hard crimps on razor blade holds. Rather than destroy his skin on the initial moves, Trotter used his rocket box to pull on mid way through the problem. He climbed through the next hard sequence and then jumped down. This rehearsal helped him for his send.
When Alex Honnold made his ascent of Ambrosia,he had toproped the top section a number of times. This allowed him to feel confident and move efficiently through the less difficult but scarier top sections. Inspecting the holds, breaking off loose rock, and chalking the rock helps a lot with confidence and moving well high off the ground.
Be careful when you're high balling. The large the fall, the more likely you are to injure yourself. Have lots of pads and spotters. Be comfortable on the grade of the problem you are trying and stay relaxed up there. A calm mind climbs significantly better than a worried one.
Stay safe and have fun!
Labels: Alex Honnold, John Sherman, Lyn Barraza, Sonnie Trotter
¶ Monday, December 19, 2011 0 Comments
Sunday, December 4, 2011
Climbing on TV
As climbing becomes more and more popular, commercials and advertisements are starting to depict climbers. Often the footage can be pretty wild.
Sacramento climber Alex Honnold and former Ironworks staff member Katie Brown made this Citibank commercial, filming over a few days in Moab Utah. The spot used a paid voice over actor. Citibank has been airing this commercial during prime time hours on a number of channels.
Not to be outdone by Honnold's cameo, Chris Sharma has been in his own Italian ad. Sector watches filmed this piece in Spain. While the language is different, it's still a solid portrayal of rock climbing hitting the big time.
Doritos has their own view on rock climbing. This one may be the most accurate of the three. I've certainly had this happen a few times, but my belayer is usually reaching for a piece of pie.
Keep your eyes out for more and more climbing related advertisements from big companies. Citibank had a casting call for climbers and the people in them made solid money for their work.
Sacramento climber Alex Honnold and former Ironworks staff member Katie Brown made this Citibank commercial, filming over a few days in Moab Utah. The spot used a paid voice over actor. Citibank has been airing this commercial during prime time hours on a number of channels.
Not to be outdone by Honnold's cameo, Chris Sharma has been in his own Italian ad. Sector watches filmed this piece in Spain. While the language is different, it's still a solid portrayal of rock climbing hitting the big time.
Gravity from Michael Eggert - "Pixelphile" on Vimeo.
Doritos has their own view on rock climbing. This one may be the most accurate of the three. I've certainly had this happen a few times, but my belayer is usually reaching for a piece of pie.
Keep your eyes out for more and more climbing related advertisements from big companies. Citibank had a casting call for climbers and the people in them made solid money for their work.
Labels: Alex Honnold, Citibank, climbing advertisements
¶ Sunday, December 04, 2011 1 Comments
Sunday, November 6, 2011
Yosemite's Grand Prix: The Race for the Nose
Yosemite’s Grand Prix has kicked off again this fall. The race for the Nose speed record got jumped started again this past month when Hans Florine and Alex Honnold teamed up to race up the 3,000 foot granite formation.
The Nose of El Capitan
Florine and Honnold met at the base of Yosemite’s El Capitan at 9 am. By 11, Honnold had ripped off his shirt and the pair were speeding up the route. Florine led them smoothly to the Boot, the large boot like formation half way up the route. From there, Honnold took the lead.
Alex Honnold and Hans Florine at the base of El Capitan
In the past few weeks, the pair made a few trial runs up the route to accustom themselves to the route and learn how to climb well together. When asked what the most important part of team efficiency is, Florine responded “Trust.” The pair simul-climb significant portions of the route and have to trust each other not to slip or make a costly mistake, jeopardizing the record and their lives. A fall would be dangerous, especially considering the minimal gear they place between them.
“One #3 cam, one #2, then doubles on down from there,” said Florine of the paltry fourteen cams they brought with them. “Alex wants me to leave the #2 in the car/van.” They try to keep it reasonable though. “It's kind of a balance between running it out for speed and keeping it safe enough to feel comfortable,” said Honnold. “Safety first, fun second, speed third,” said Florine.
Florine going to Dolt
The fastest part of their climbing is simply their lack of idle time on the route. “I don't really move so fast,” said Honnold, “we're just efficient about transitions and strategy. We aren't actually moving all that fast. It's boring to watch.” The pair minimize the belay transitions and simply both move the entire time. They whittled their time from 4:37 on Oct 13th to 3:16 the next week. On November 1st, the pair tried once more.
Honnold racing up the Great Roof
They flirted with the record and were on track the entire way. By the last pitch, they were 7 minutes from the record. Honnold yarded up the bolt ladder. Florine had 4 minutes to finish the pitch. Florine scampered up, almost but not quite hitting the bolts perfectly. The speed bump cost a few seconds. Tom Evans, the man behind the camera at El Cap Bridge, and dozens of climbers bit their nails as they watched from the bridge. They waited for the signal that the pair had beaten the record.
Florine’s obsession with the Nose of El Capitan passion began in 1988, when he partnered with Mike Lopez to climb the center line on Yosemite’s prominent granite formation. Since then, the 47 year old Diablo Rock Gym manager has climbed the Nose 85 times and held the speed record on the route 6 times since 1990.
On the way to Camp 6
Compared to Hans’ 85 times on the route, Honnold has climbed the route, “Maybe 12 or 15 times? Maybe a few more?” Honnold, a 26 year old climber from Sacramento, sped up the Nose last summer and nabbed the solo speed record. Honnold climbed the route for the first time with his friend Josh, who he met at Pipeworks. “I was wrecked for days,” said Honnold of their 22 hour ascent. Honnold continued to speed climb. “I just like the smoothness and efficiency. Speed climbing always feels good because you're doing it so well.” A few summers ago, Honnold and Swiss Machine Ueli Steck attempted to break the Nose Speed record, logging sub 4 hour times.
Hans starting the last pitch
Unfortunately, the pair missed the record by a mere 45 seconds. But this was just a practice run for the team and not a “real” effort. “Given the style/method we are using I think that 2:17 is about as fast as it will go,” said Florine about the fastest possible time. Honnold believes the route can be down even faster. “I sorta think that the right people could maybe do it in sub 2 hours. I think that's nearing the limits of human abilities.” They both believe they can beat Sean Leary and Dean Potter’s 2010 time of 2:36:45 and are willing to put in the effort required.
Florine trains for the NIAD (Nose in a day) by climbing at the Touchstone gyms. “Usually jaunts over to GWPC, BIW, and MC to get in some crack climbing,” said Florine. He attributes his fast movement to his experience with gear placement, selection and knowing his body. Late nights laps in the gyms have helped him get closer to the record but it’s his dedication that has helped the most.
“I just think owning the record on The Nose is worth following a path for as long as I can. Perhaps I'll get the record, perhaps not, I am really loving giving it a go, regardless of the outcome.” Honnold added, “Some day I'd be psyched to be able to say "I once held the speed record on the Nose", but really, it's not that big a thing. If I ever break 2 hours, then I'll be impressed. . .”
The pair hope to climb the route again but Honnold has to leave for Poland in a few days and their ascent is weather dependent. Good luck to both climbers.
Thanks to Tom Evans, of the El Cap report for the photos.
1:59:59 Alex Honnold and Hans Florine- ????
2:36:45 Sean Leary and Dean Potter, 2010
2:43:33 Yuji Hirayama and Hans Florine, 2008
2:45:45 Alexander and Thomas Huber, 2007
2:48:50 Yuji Hirayama and Hans Florine, 2002
3:24:20 Timmy O’Neill and Dean Potter, 2001
3:57:37 Jim Herson and Hans Florine, 2001
3:59:35 Timmy O’Neill and Dean Potter, 2001
4:22:00 Peter Croft and Hans Florine, 1992
4:48:00 Dave Shultz and Peter Croft, 1991
6:01:00 Andres Puhvel and Hans Florine, 1991
6:40:00 Dave Schultz and Peter Croft, 1990
8:06:00 Steve Schneider and Hans Florine, 1990
The Nose of El Capitan
Florine and Honnold met at the base of Yosemite’s El Capitan at 9 am. By 11, Honnold had ripped off his shirt and the pair were speeding up the route. Florine led them smoothly to the Boot, the large boot like formation half way up the route. From there, Honnold took the lead.
Alex Honnold and Hans Florine at the base of El Capitan
In the past few weeks, the pair made a few trial runs up the route to accustom themselves to the route and learn how to climb well together. When asked what the most important part of team efficiency is, Florine responded “Trust.” The pair simul-climb significant portions of the route and have to trust each other not to slip or make a costly mistake, jeopardizing the record and their lives. A fall would be dangerous, especially considering the minimal gear they place between them.
“One #3 cam, one #2, then doubles on down from there,” said Florine of the paltry fourteen cams they brought with them. “Alex wants me to leave the #2 in the car/van.” They try to keep it reasonable though. “It's kind of a balance between running it out for speed and keeping it safe enough to feel comfortable,” said Honnold. “Safety first, fun second, speed third,” said Florine.
Florine going to Dolt
The fastest part of their climbing is simply their lack of idle time on the route. “I don't really move so fast,” said Honnold, “we're just efficient about transitions and strategy. We aren't actually moving all that fast. It's boring to watch.” The pair minimize the belay transitions and simply both move the entire time. They whittled their time from 4:37 on Oct 13th to 3:16 the next week. On November 1st, the pair tried once more.
Honnold racing up the Great Roof
They flirted with the record and were on track the entire way. By the last pitch, they were 7 minutes from the record. Honnold yarded up the bolt ladder. Florine had 4 minutes to finish the pitch. Florine scampered up, almost but not quite hitting the bolts perfectly. The speed bump cost a few seconds. Tom Evans, the man behind the camera at El Cap Bridge, and dozens of climbers bit their nails as they watched from the bridge. They waited for the signal that the pair had beaten the record.
Florine’s obsession with the Nose of El Capitan passion began in 1988, when he partnered with Mike Lopez to climb the center line on Yosemite’s prominent granite formation. Since then, the 47 year old Diablo Rock Gym manager has climbed the Nose 85 times and held the speed record on the route 6 times since 1990.
On the way to Camp 6
Compared to Hans’ 85 times on the route, Honnold has climbed the route, “Maybe 12 or 15 times? Maybe a few more?” Honnold, a 26 year old climber from Sacramento, sped up the Nose last summer and nabbed the solo speed record. Honnold climbed the route for the first time with his friend Josh, who he met at Pipeworks. “I was wrecked for days,” said Honnold of their 22 hour ascent. Honnold continued to speed climb. “I just like the smoothness and efficiency. Speed climbing always feels good because you're doing it so well.” A few summers ago, Honnold and Swiss Machine Ueli Steck attempted to break the Nose Speed record, logging sub 4 hour times.
Hans starting the last pitch
Unfortunately, the pair missed the record by a mere 45 seconds. But this was just a practice run for the team and not a “real” effort. “Given the style/method we are using I think that 2:17 is about as fast as it will go,” said Florine about the fastest possible time. Honnold believes the route can be down even faster. “I sorta think that the right people could maybe do it in sub 2 hours. I think that's nearing the limits of human abilities.” They both believe they can beat Sean Leary and Dean Potter’s 2010 time of 2:36:45 and are willing to put in the effort required.
Florine trains for the NIAD (Nose in a day) by climbing at the Touchstone gyms. “Usually jaunts over to GWPC, BIW, and MC to get in some crack climbing,” said Florine. He attributes his fast movement to his experience with gear placement, selection and knowing his body. Late nights laps in the gyms have helped him get closer to the record but it’s his dedication that has helped the most.
“I just think owning the record on The Nose is worth following a path for as long as I can. Perhaps I'll get the record, perhaps not, I am really loving giving it a go, regardless of the outcome.” Honnold added, “Some day I'd be psyched to be able to say "I once held the speed record on the Nose", but really, it's not that big a thing. If I ever break 2 hours, then I'll be impressed. . .”
The pair hope to climb the route again but Honnold has to leave for Poland in a few days and their ascent is weather dependent. Good luck to both climbers.
Thanks to Tom Evans, of the El Cap report for the photos.
1:59:59 Alex Honnold and Hans Florine- ????
2:36:45 Sean Leary and Dean Potter, 2010
2:43:33 Yuji Hirayama and Hans Florine, 2008
2:45:45 Alexander and Thomas Huber, 2007
2:48:50 Yuji Hirayama and Hans Florine, 2002
3:24:20 Timmy O’Neill and Dean Potter, 2001
3:57:37 Jim Herson and Hans Florine, 2001
3:59:35 Timmy O’Neill and Dean Potter, 2001
4:22:00 Peter Croft and Hans Florine, 1992
4:48:00 Dave Shultz and Peter Croft, 1991
6:01:00 Andres Puhvel and Hans Florine, 1991
6:40:00 Dave Schultz and Peter Croft, 1990
8:06:00 Steve Schneider and Hans Florine, 1990
Labels: Alex Honnold, Hans Florine, Tom Evans
¶ Sunday, November 06, 2011 0 Comments
Monday, October 3, 2011
Climbing on CBS's 60 Minutes
Sacramento native and long time Pipeworks climber, Alex Honnold was recently featured on 60 Minutes with Lara Logan. The show filmed Alex, a renown free soloist, climbing the Choinard-Herbert on Yosemite's Sentinel route with no rope. The 5.11 route proved to be little challenge for Alex "No Big Deal" Honnold.
Honnold at the top of the Sentinel after his ascent.
CBS posted the video online of Alex's climb.
The crew made a behind the scenes video. Of particular note, Touchstone blogger James Lucas worked as a production assistant on the film, carrying enormous loads of gear to the summit of Sentinel and "pretty much dragging Alex to the top of the climb."
60 Minutes Interviewer Lara Logan in El Portal
Additionally, CBS did an interview with the quirky Honnold. Check out the short here. Lara Logan asked Honnold a number of great questions. Check out the wild footage online.
Honnold at the top of the Sentinel after his ascent.
CBS posted the video online of Alex's climb.
The crew made a behind the scenes video. Of particular note, Touchstone blogger James Lucas worked as a production assistant on the film, carrying enormous loads of gear to the summit of Sentinel and "pretty much dragging Alex to the top of the climb."
60 Minutes Interviewer Lara Logan in El Portal
Additionally, CBS did an interview with the quirky Honnold. Check out the short here. Lara Logan asked Honnold a number of great questions. Check out the wild footage online.
Labels: 60 Minutes, Alex Honnold, James Lucas
¶ Monday, October 03, 2011 0 Comments
Friday, May 13, 2011
Climbing Through Anxiety
Rock climbing is scary. The fear of falling or failing on a difficult route or boulder problem can cause serious anxiety. Often before a difficult climb, my bladder becomes the size of a walnut. On a recent climb, I moved out out on relatively easy terrain but then got scared, over gripped, and ended up hanging. In an attempt to overcome my fear and become a better climber, I talked to a number of different climbers on the subject.
World renown free soloist and hard man rock climber, Alex Honnold told me, "Being scared doesn’t mean anything. Are you scared because you’re scared or because you’re in danger?" He emphasized that an emotional reaction to climbing had nothing to do with the actual climbing. Recently, he redpointed The Book of Hate, a 13d stem corner in Yosemite. He climbed poorly through the beginning section, over gripping and stabbing his feet erratically. When he got to a rest, he saw the difficult section ahead and didn't let his poor performance below affect him. "You just have to ignore it,” he said about the fear and anxiety of climbing, "just force yourself to do it."
Dave Macleod, an extreme British climber, wrote an excellent article about the fear of falling. Macleod talks about expanding your comfort zone- facing your fears and anxiety a little bit at a time to become more comfortable with the fear involved.
Here's a video of YOSAR member Scott Deputy pink-pointing (climbing on pre placed gear) Separate Reality. Notice how smooth he is on the send. He fought through his mental anxiety. The preplaced gear helped him avoid worrying about bad protection and focus on the movement.
This video of Chris Schulte shows the mental anguish he went through to finish his boulder problem in Font. In Chris's case, he wasn't so much afraid of falling as he was afraid of failing. When he gave up his fear he was able to send his project.
A few years ago, a young Yosemite park employee saw Dean Potter and asked him, "Dean you're a super rad free soloist, you've done some crazy base-soloing, and you never seem to get scared. How do you do it?" Did responded, "Well, you know when you're in your sleeping bag, it's cold out, and you really have to use the bathroom but you don't want to get up?" The climber nodded. "Well, I just get up and go."
My next trip out to my project, I underclinged through the initial difficulties. I was scared but this time I remembered what Alex had said, the way Chris relaxed to give up his anxiety, what Dean Potter does, and I just kept going. For more information about getting over fear in climbing check out Arno Ilgner's Warrior Way.
World renown free soloist and hard man rock climber, Alex Honnold told me, "Being scared doesn’t mean anything. Are you scared because you’re scared or because you’re in danger?" He emphasized that an emotional reaction to climbing had nothing to do with the actual climbing. Recently, he redpointed The Book of Hate, a 13d stem corner in Yosemite. He climbed poorly through the beginning section, over gripping and stabbing his feet erratically. When he got to a rest, he saw the difficult section ahead and didn't let his poor performance below affect him. "You just have to ignore it,” he said about the fear and anxiety of climbing, "just force yourself to do it."
Dave Macleod, an extreme British climber, wrote an excellent article about the fear of falling. Macleod talks about expanding your comfort zone- facing your fears and anxiety a little bit at a time to become more comfortable with the fear involved.
Here's a video of YOSAR member Scott Deputy pink-pointing (climbing on pre placed gear) Separate Reality. Notice how smooth he is on the send. He fought through his mental anxiety. The preplaced gear helped him avoid worrying about bad protection and focus on the movement.
Scott Deputy on Separate Reality from Mason Earle on Vimeo.
This video of Chris Schulte shows the mental anguish he went through to finish his boulder problem in Font. In Chris's case, he wasn't so much afraid of falling as he was afraid of failing. When he gave up his fear he was able to send his project.
BD athlete Chris Schulte bouldering in Fontainebleau from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.
A few years ago, a young Yosemite park employee saw Dean Potter and asked him, "Dean you're a super rad free soloist, you've done some crazy base-soloing, and you never seem to get scared. How do you do it?" Did responded, "Well, you know when you're in your sleeping bag, it's cold out, and you really have to use the bathroom but you don't want to get up?" The climber nodded. "Well, I just get up and go."
My next trip out to my project, I underclinged through the initial difficulties. I was scared but this time I remembered what Alex had said, the way Chris relaxed to give up his anxiety, what Dean Potter does, and I just kept going. For more information about getting over fear in climbing check out Arno Ilgner's Warrior Way.
Labels: Alex Honnold, Arno Ilgner, fear of climbing
¶ Friday, May 13, 2011 0 Comments
Wednesday, June 23, 2010
Solo Link-up Of Half Dome and El Capitan
Alex Honnold experiences serious road rage. "I can't wait until this turns into a real highway. I'm over this two-lane business," he said during an interview with the Touchstone Blog. "I followed some slow poke all the way out of Yosemite."
Alex Honnold is not used to moving slowly. Yesterday, Honnold was speeding, climbing first the Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome in 2 hours and 9 minutes and then the Nose of El Capitan in 5 hours 59 minutes.
Honnold is more used to the fast movement of cruising up giant granite walls than the stop and go of commuter traffic. "I'm losing it, I can't take it anymore. I reached a certain threshold and just can't deal with it anymore." The road to LA, where he was heading to visit his lady friend, was filled with traffic. The routes in Yosemite were far more open. He completed the Nose of El Capitan faster than he was able to drive from Yosemite to LA. Honnold slept at the base of Half Dome, climbed the route, hiked to the Nose, and then topped out El Capitan 11 hours after he started climbing.
Honnold racked up at the bridge of El Capitan. This was his first solo ascent of El Capitan. The night before he had read Hans Florine's Speed Climbing book and was excited to try some of the tricks he had learned.
Honnold bested Touchstone climber's Hans Florine previous solo speed record of the Nose and Half Dome. Florine has an extensive collection of records for all Yosemite Valley speed climbs at his website, Speed Climbing.com
Honnold climbed much of the routes ropeless. Here he is pictured above the Great Roof on the Nose on Pancake Flake's 11c section, a few thousand feet above the valley floor.
There's a forum thread on Supertopo about his climb as well as more images from the El Cap reporter, Tom "Ansel" Evans.
"Dude, I used a brush that I got from Pipeworks the other day. Make sure you put that in the blog. It's boars hair. Also say that I'm incredibly handsome and good looking," Honnold stated in his interview. That's when traffic cleared and Honnold was able to start speeding again. "I'm so excited! I almost up to 65! I got to go!"
Alex Honnold is not used to moving slowly. Yesterday, Honnold was speeding, climbing first the Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome in 2 hours and 9 minutes and then the Nose of El Capitan in 5 hours 59 minutes.
Honnold is more used to the fast movement of cruising up giant granite walls than the stop and go of commuter traffic. "I'm losing it, I can't take it anymore. I reached a certain threshold and just can't deal with it anymore." The road to LA, where he was heading to visit his lady friend, was filled with traffic. The routes in Yosemite were far more open. He completed the Nose of El Capitan faster than he was able to drive from Yosemite to LA. Honnold slept at the base of Half Dome, climbed the route, hiked to the Nose, and then topped out El Capitan 11 hours after he started climbing.
Honnold racked up at the bridge of El Capitan. This was his first solo ascent of El Capitan. The night before he had read Hans Florine's Speed Climbing book and was excited to try some of the tricks he had learned.
Honnold bested Touchstone climber's Hans Florine previous solo speed record of the Nose and Half Dome. Florine has an extensive collection of records for all Yosemite Valley speed climbs at his website, Speed Climbing.com
Honnold climbed much of the routes ropeless. Here he is pictured above the Great Roof on the Nose on Pancake Flake's 11c section, a few thousand feet above the valley floor.
There's a forum thread on Supertopo about his climb as well as more images from the El Cap reporter, Tom "Ansel" Evans.
"Dude, I used a brush that I got from Pipeworks the other day. Make sure you put that in the blog. It's boars hair. Also say that I'm incredibly handsome and good looking," Honnold stated in his interview. That's when traffic cleared and Honnold was able to start speeding again. "I'm so excited! I almost up to 65! I got to go!"
Labels: Alex Honnold, Hans Florine, The Nose
¶ Wednesday, June 23, 2010 3 Comments
Wednesday, February 24, 2010
Interview With An Athlete: Alex Honnold on Climbing with No Fear
Alex Honnold, a 24 year old from Sacramento California, has become a big name in rock climbing in the past three years with numerous free ascents of El Capitan, and ropeless climbs on the Regular Northwest Face of Halfdome (5.12) as well as Zion's Moonlight Buttress (5.12d). He began climbing at the gyms in Sacramento and Sacramento Pipeworks was one of his first sponsors. He still "loves" Pipeworks and gets in the gym from time to time, especially now that his mother has started climbing there as well. Honnold took some time out of his latest adventure- bouldering in Bishop's Buttermilks, to answer a few question about training for El Cap free climbing and how to keep a solid head through dangerous situations.
Alex Honnold Ropeless on The Rostrum (5.11c)
What's your training like? How do you train for El Capitan free routes?
My training is a little bit haphazard, I'm not really sure what the best way to train is. But I try different things.
I used to climb in the gym a lot more, when I was actually living in Sacramento. I would do 4x4s or multiple routes back to back, just random endurance training like that. I trained for Freerider [my first El Cap route] by doing 20 routes a night at the gym. Mostly 12s with a few 13s, and maybe a few 11s as I got totally worked. I guess it worked out well enough.
But honestly, I don't really know what I'm doing. I just like to climb a whole lot.
What are you doing these days?
Bishop has been fun this winter. I'm trying to build some power, in the hope that I won't always fall off of the hard moves on routes. I think I'm naturally more of an endurance climber, so I guess I'm just trying to train my weakness.
But after about 6 weeks of bouldering I'm starting to get kind of into it. It's so fun and chill. Super mellow. I see why so many people love to boulder. But I'm still fantasizing about walls. . .
You've soloed Yosemite's Regular Northwest Face of Halfdome (VI 5.12), Zion's Moonlight Buttress (V 5.12+) and climbed some serious highballs like the Buttermilks' Ambrosia and the Full Evilotioun. How do you manage your fear?
I don't think it's so much about managing my fear, as not getting fearful to begin with. With routes like Ambrosia and long solos you deal with all the uncertainty and fear before you start. You manage all that stuff on the ground. Then when you climb the route it's already taken care of. So while you're climbing, you don't get scared.
But sometimes when I'm onsight soloing or even just doing stuff on gear I'll get gripped for whatever reason. Then I just do what everybody else does, take some deep breaths and try to keep it together.
Alex topping out Ambrosia, a v10 highball or 5.14 freesolo
What can people do to climb better through heady situations?
I think the book The Rock Warriors way gives a lot of good advice on keeping your head together. One of the really useful things I think was to approach things mindfully. As in to be fully aware of what you're doing and why. So if something is dangerous, you evaluate it and decide whether or not you actually want to proceed. And if it seems to dangerous, you retreat with no doubts.
Alex Honnold Ropeless on The Rostrum (5.11c)
What's your training like? How do you train for El Capitan free routes?
My training is a little bit haphazard, I'm not really sure what the best way to train is. But I try different things.
I used to climb in the gym a lot more, when I was actually living in Sacramento. I would do 4x4s or multiple routes back to back, just random endurance training like that. I trained for Freerider [my first El Cap route] by doing 20 routes a night at the gym. Mostly 12s with a few 13s, and maybe a few 11s as I got totally worked. I guess it worked out well enough.
But honestly, I don't really know what I'm doing. I just like to climb a whole lot.
What are you doing these days?
Bishop has been fun this winter. I'm trying to build some power, in the hope that I won't always fall off of the hard moves on routes. I think I'm naturally more of an endurance climber, so I guess I'm just trying to train my weakness.
But after about 6 weeks of bouldering I'm starting to get kind of into it. It's so fun and chill. Super mellow. I see why so many people love to boulder. But I'm still fantasizing about walls. . .
You've soloed Yosemite's Regular Northwest Face of Halfdome (VI 5.12), Zion's Moonlight Buttress (V 5.12+) and climbed some serious highballs like the Buttermilks' Ambrosia and the Full Evilotioun. How do you manage your fear?
I don't think it's so much about managing my fear, as not getting fearful to begin with. With routes like Ambrosia and long solos you deal with all the uncertainty and fear before you start. You manage all that stuff on the ground. Then when you climb the route it's already taken care of. So while you're climbing, you don't get scared.
But sometimes when I'm onsight soloing or even just doing stuff on gear I'll get gripped for whatever reason. Then I just do what everybody else does, take some deep breaths and try to keep it together.
Alex topping out Ambrosia, a v10 highball or 5.14 freesolo
What can people do to climb better through heady situations?
I think the book The Rock Warriors way gives a lot of good advice on keeping your head together. One of the really useful things I think was to approach things mindfully. As in to be fully aware of what you're doing and why. So if something is dangerous, you evaluate it and decide whether or not you actually want to proceed. And if it seems to dangerous, you retreat with no doubts.
Labels: Alex Honnold, Ambrosia, free solo
¶ Wednesday, February 24, 2010 1 Comments
