Touchstone Blog Archive
Tuesday, March 1, 2011
A Few From Font: Bay Area Climbers in France
The forests around the French town of Fontainebleau are home to arguably some of the best boulders in Europe, if not the world. Thousands of sandstone blocks with mostly sandy landings litter the forest, making it a prime spot for traveling boulderers. The spring and fall season, read right now, are the best times to go and a few Berkeley locals headed out there to check out the blocks.
Monica Aranda, Justin Alarcon, and Scott Chandler flew out to France together to sample the wine, the chocolate, and most importantly the blocs. By staying in a gite, the small houses near the boulders, and sharing the expenses of a car, the three climbers were able to head out there for a month. They met up with other bay climbers- Ingar, Nora, Beth, Randy, and the ever popular Nevada boulderers Noah and Siemay. The crew is having a blast out there crushing the sloping holds. Check out some of the videos that Scott made of the climbing.
Randy Puro has got more hops than a brewery. Here he is jumping on L'Ange Naif, a classic Dyno at 95.2
Justin Alarcon, Ironworks desk staff hero, climbing the highball Big Jim at Petit Bois. Justin's been complaining of "wet skin"- whatever that means. Watching Alarcon on this highball made my palms sweat a little.
Here's some more footage of wet tips Alarcon climbing Onde de choc at Apremont. It's hard not to be jealous.
Monica Aranda, Justin Alarcon, and Scott Chandler flew out to France together to sample the wine, the chocolate, and most importantly the blocs. By staying in a gite, the small houses near the boulders, and sharing the expenses of a car, the three climbers were able to head out there for a month. They met up with other bay climbers- Ingar, Nora, Beth, Randy, and the ever popular Nevada boulderers Noah and Siemay. The crew is having a blast out there crushing the sloping holds. Check out some of the videos that Scott made of the climbing.
Randy Puro has got more hops than a brewery. Here he is jumping on L'Ange Naif, a classic Dyno at 95.2
L'Ange Naif from scott chandler on Vimeo.
Justin Alarcon, Ironworks desk staff hero, climbing the highball Big Jim at Petit Bois. Justin's been complaining of "wet skin"- whatever that means. Watching Alarcon on this highball made my palms sweat a little.
Big Jim from scott chandler on Vimeo.
Here's some more footage of wet tips Alarcon climbing Onde de choc at Apremont. It's hard not to be jealous.
Onde de choc from scott chandler on Vimeo.
Labels: Font, Justin Alarcon, Monica Aranda, Scott Chandler
¶ Tuesday, March 01, 2011 0 Comments
Friday, January 28, 2011
Castle Rock Bouldering: How to Mantle
In the hills just south of San Jose are a cluster of sandstone boulders. When the winter days are cold, the friction on these rounded Font like blobs becomes amazing. For those looking to do some weekend bouldering near the bay area, Castle Rock is a great option.
One of the most important skills required at Castle Rock is the mantle, or pressing out the top of a boulder. The rounded rocks don't have big jugs at the top, instead they have precarious mantles. Check out this instructional video on how to mantle.
A frequent member of the Berkeley Ironworks crew, Michele Lombardo Goodhew climbs at Castle Rock State Park-. Here's a video of her crushing The Lost Keys Traverse(V6). Check out the smooth moves she executes through the crux and through the hard mantle finish.
A single hueco followed by a series of bad slopers below the Magoo Boulders was a long term John "Yabo" Yabolonski problem until a few years ago when Santa Cruz local, Chris Sharma dispatched the first ascent of "Ecoterrorist" (V10/11). Here's some footage of Scott Chandler hiking the problem. Watch the way he tops out the difficult problem.
Below Indian Rock are a number of less developed and very good boulders. There's good information about them on a Supertopo Thread. There's some awesome new mantle problems down the hill. Get out there and check them out.
One of the most important skills required at Castle Rock is the mantle, or pressing out the top of a boulder. The rounded rocks don't have big jugs at the top, instead they have precarious mantles. Check out this instructional video on how to mantle.
How to Use the Mantle Technique in Rock Climbing: Intermediate Rock Climbing Tip - Courtesy of Trails.com
A frequent member of the Berkeley Ironworks crew, Michele Lombardo Goodhew climbs at Castle Rock State Park-. Here's a video of her crushing The Lost Keys Traverse(V6). Check out the smooth moves she executes through the crux and through the hard mantle finish.
A single hueco followed by a series of bad slopers below the Magoo Boulders was a long term John "Yabo" Yabolonski problem until a few years ago when Santa Cruz local, Chris Sharma dispatched the first ascent of "Ecoterrorist" (V10/11). Here's some footage of Scott Chandler hiking the problem. Watch the way he tops out the difficult problem.
Ecoterrorist [v10] from scott chandler on Vimeo.
Below Indian Rock are a number of less developed and very good boulders. There's good information about them on a Supertopo Thread. There's some awesome new mantle problems down the hill. Get out there and check them out.
Labels: Castle Rock State Park, Michele Goodhew, Scott Chandler
¶ Friday, January 28, 2011 0 Comments
Tuesday, October 26, 2010
Rocktober In Yosemite
Conditions were excellent in Yosemite today. The rock dried out from the rain and the cold crisp weather was awesome. While some Touchstone staff members have been busy getting benighted on the Sentinel, other bay area climbers have been hitting the boulders around the Valley. Check out the video that Touchstone hardman Scott Chandler made of some classic Yosemite climbs.
Rocktober 2010 from scott chandler on Vimeo.
Labels: Scott Chandler, Yosemite bouldering
¶ Tuesday, October 26, 2010 0 Comments
Saturday, February 13, 2010
Yosemite Slab Climbing
The boulders in Yosemite have some classic slab problems. Included in the footwork circuit are Initial Friction (V1), Elegant Gypsy (V7), Blue Suede Shoes (V5), and Red Suede Shoes (v5) at the Camp 4 boulders, Full Sail (V7) at the Cathedral Boulders, Avocado (V9/10) at the Curry Boulders. One of the harder and more classic lines is Kumba (V8) in the boulders above King Cobra. Most of the crowds are at the Buttermilks and Tablelands of Bishop this weekend. The boulders behind Camp 4 are dry and sticky as ever. Blue Suede Shoes "feels like 5.10" according to an El Portal Local. For those that can hike the "easy" slab of Blue Suede Shoes- they can work on the harder slab of Kumba. Below is a video of Bay Area Hardman boulderer and avid first ascentionist Scott Chandler hiking the difficult moves while casually commenting on the weather.
Kumba from scott chandler on Vimeo.
Labels: Kumba, Scott Chandler, slab climbing
¶ Saturday, February 13, 2010 0 Comments
Saturday, December 19, 2009
Eco Terrorist
A single hueco followed by a series of bad slopers at Castle Rock State Park, was a long term John "Yabo" Yabolonski problem until a few years ago when Santa Cruz local, Chris Sharma dispatched the first ascent of "Ecoterrorist" (V10/11). For those who need a little bit of pysche to get out after all those holiday dinners, here's a video of Scott Chandler, an Ironworks climber, hiking the problem. Check out the excellent spotting skills of Great Western Power Company's Monica.
Ecoterrorist [v10] from scott chandler on Vimeo.
Labels: Castle Rosk State Park, Eco Terrorist, Scott Chandler
¶ Saturday, December 19, 2009 0 Comments
