Touchstone Blog Archive
Friday, August 12, 2011
Technique for Slab Climbing
Technique is for the weak. At least that's what it seems like seeing the strong boulders in the steep parts of the gym. Unfortunately, big muscles and an ability to campus won't get you up hard routes- precise footwork and an ability to climb well will get you much farther. One of the best ways to improve your footwork is to slab climb. While climbing lower angle rocks isn't in vogue, it can be really really fun. Take the time to learn proper technique and the big muscles will shoot you to rock super stardom.
Position your body
You want as much downward pressure on the balls of your feet as you can. If you lean in to far and hug the rock, you'll probably cheese grater right down. Keep your butt out and your hands in front of you. It's a calf burning way to climb so make sure you have comfy shoes and toned legs.
Smear your feet
A smear is when you use the friction between your shoes and the rock to hold you in place. Get as much weight onto your foot as possible. Look for tiny edges, ripples and other dimples in the rock.
Mason Earle, a slab ninja, on a first ascent in the Needles.
Move Confidently
Moving well on slab routes requires stepping up. Usually the moves aren't physically taxing but require a greater sense of balance. Place your foot on a hold and commit to the process. You'll do much better if you're relaxed and moving well.
Wear good shoes
Stiffer shoes work much better on slabs. Make sure your soles are clean. Slab climbing requires really strong feet so be aware that your feet may get a little worked after some intense slab climbing.
How to Climb Low Angle Rock Walls Outdoors
There's lots of great places to go get your slab climb on. Try the Dike Route (5.9) in Tuolumne, FreeBlast (5.11b) in Yosemite, Initial Friction (v1), Blue Suede Shoes (v5) in the Camp 4 boulders, or any of the hundreds of slab routes in Squamish. At Ironworks, there's a great slab in the back of the gym as well as a wall in the front.
Now go get your slab on!
Position your body
You want as much downward pressure on the balls of your feet as you can. If you lean in to far and hug the rock, you'll probably cheese grater right down. Keep your butt out and your hands in front of you. It's a calf burning way to climb so make sure you have comfy shoes and toned legs.
Smear your feet
A smear is when you use the friction between your shoes and the rock to hold you in place. Get as much weight onto your foot as possible. Look for tiny edges, ripples and other dimples in the rock.
Mason Earle, a slab ninja, on a first ascent in the Needles.
Move Confidently
Moving well on slab routes requires stepping up. Usually the moves aren't physically taxing but require a greater sense of balance. Place your foot on a hold and commit to the process. You'll do much better if you're relaxed and moving well.
Wear good shoes
Stiffer shoes work much better on slabs. Make sure your soles are clean. Slab climbing requires really strong feet so be aware that your feet may get a little worked after some intense slab climbing.
How to Climb Low Angle Rock Walls Outdoors
There's lots of great places to go get your slab climb on. Try the Dike Route (5.9) in Tuolumne, FreeBlast (5.11b) in Yosemite, Initial Friction (v1), Blue Suede Shoes (v5) in the Camp 4 boulders, or any of the hundreds of slab routes in Squamish. At Ironworks, there's a great slab in the back of the gym as well as a wall in the front.
Now go get your slab on!
Labels: climbing technique, Mason Earle, slab climbing
¶ Friday, August 12, 2011 0 Comments
Saturday, February 13, 2010
Yosemite Slab Climbing
The boulders in Yosemite have some classic slab problems. Included in the footwork circuit are Initial Friction (V1), Elegant Gypsy (V7), Blue Suede Shoes (V5), and Red Suede Shoes (v5) at the Camp 4 boulders, Full Sail (V7) at the Cathedral Boulders, Avocado (V9/10) at the Curry Boulders. One of the harder and more classic lines is Kumba (V8) in the boulders above King Cobra. Most of the crowds are at the Buttermilks and Tablelands of Bishop this weekend. The boulders behind Camp 4 are dry and sticky as ever. Blue Suede Shoes "feels like 5.10" according to an El Portal Local. For those that can hike the "easy" slab of Blue Suede Shoes- they can work on the harder slab of Kumba. Below is a video of Bay Area Hardman boulderer and avid first ascentionist Scott Chandler hiking the difficult moves while casually commenting on the weather.
Kumba from scott chandler on Vimeo.
Labels: Kumba, Scott Chandler, slab climbing
¶ Saturday, February 13, 2010 0 Comments
