Touchstone Blog Archive
Wednesday, June 29, 2011
Leavenworthless- Trip Report
Recently Becky Trafecanty, a bad ass Berkeley climber/nurse, and Justin Alarcon, the guy with the matted hair and cut off jeans at Berkeley Ironworks front desk, returned from a trip to Northwest. “Neither of us had been (to Leavenworth/Goldbar) before, which was part of the allure,” said Justin. “We'd also heard about great quality rock, free camping, and it seemed a safer bet for dry weather than Squamish for a relatively short trip.” The majority of their ten day trip was spent in Leavenworth but they also checked out Gold Bar for three days.
Jessica Campbell on The Cattleguard Arete V8
Around 1860, Loggers established the central Washington town of Leavenworth in the middle of the Gold Rush, making a strip of businesses out of the saloons and brothels. As the need for lumber decreased, the economy declined, and the boom town slowly became skeletal and desolate. While Leavenworth's fruit industry made significant contributions to the economy with the hills of pear, apple, and cherry trees, the town needed more. In the 1960's Leavenworth locals made a last ditch effort to bring business, adopting a Bavarian theme. Now the town boasts status as Washington's second most popular tourist attraction with a strip of restaurants and gift shops all built like a village in the Swiss Alps. The alpine setting of the area also attracts many adventurous Washingtonians.
Keri Carlton on the Skyline Boulders at Steven's Passs
A half dozen rafting outfits run daily trips down the white water of the Wenatchee and Tumwater, both of which feature excellent kayaking and raftin. Besides the boaters, Leavenworth attracts backpackers and hikers, who often make the twenty mile trek to view the Enchantments and the large trees, conifers which burst into glowing yellows and oranges in the autumn. After their outings on the river, their hikes on the rocky hillsides of Icicle Canyon, or listening the non-stop accordion waltz in the town green, the tourists often walk along the Bavarian fronted streets, stopping by the Munchen Haus and Kink Ludwig's to stuff themselves. Most people come to Leavenworth to eat and drink and they are fat and drunk. If you can escape the food, and look past the rafting, Leavenworth features some of the best bouldering in the North West.
Max Hasson on Scrambled Eggs (v8)
“The climbing is pretty varied for granite,” Justin said. “There were plenty of slopers, crimps, and pinches, even a few pockets. The rock varied from 'just okay' to amazing. The boulders are all really accessible too, like seconds to minutes off the road. Its kind of like a granite Joe's Valley in the Pacific Northwest.”
Kyle O'Meara on Hurly Burly V7 at the Metalocalypse Boulder
While classic problems on the Fridge Boulder, at Mad Meadows in Icicle Canyon, and a circuit around Swiftwater saw ascents as early as thirty years ago, the majority of the bouldering developed within the past decade. Just before the turn of the century, Cole Allen and Johnny Goicoechea rallied out to the east Cascades to establish a hoard of neo-classics including The Sail (v9), Mushashi (v9), Pimpsqueak (v9), and The Peephole (v10). They were joined by Kelly Sheridan, the author of a new extensive guide book, local poster boy Kyle O'Meara, and the uber-strong Joel Campbell. These boys diligently scrubbed the boulders, unearthing a series of slopers, crimps, and granite jugs. In between discovering new problems, they bouldered out many of the classic top rope problems in the area. Going ropeless on the Sword (v3), the butt puckering Ruminator (v6), and running afternoon laps on the Sleeping Lady (v2), a jug haul located directly above the raging Icicle River with death potential, became standard practice.
Thomasina Pidgeon on Answer man V6
Though the bouldering is fantastic- the highlight for Becky was the mini pony that pastured along Icicle Canyon Road. Becky named the little horse Clover . Yeah Mini Pony!
Check out the great video that Justin and Becky made of their trip. Way to Crush!
Jessica Campbell on The Cattleguard Arete V8
Around 1860, Loggers established the central Washington town of Leavenworth in the middle of the Gold Rush, making a strip of businesses out of the saloons and brothels. As the need for lumber decreased, the economy declined, and the boom town slowly became skeletal and desolate. While Leavenworth's fruit industry made significant contributions to the economy with the hills of pear, apple, and cherry trees, the town needed more. In the 1960's Leavenworth locals made a last ditch effort to bring business, adopting a Bavarian theme. Now the town boasts status as Washington's second most popular tourist attraction with a strip of restaurants and gift shops all built like a village in the Swiss Alps. The alpine setting of the area also attracts many adventurous Washingtonians.
Keri Carlton on the Skyline Boulders at Steven's Passs
A half dozen rafting outfits run daily trips down the white water of the Wenatchee and Tumwater, both of which feature excellent kayaking and raftin. Besides the boaters, Leavenworth attracts backpackers and hikers, who often make the twenty mile trek to view the Enchantments and the large trees, conifers which burst into glowing yellows and oranges in the autumn. After their outings on the river, their hikes on the rocky hillsides of Icicle Canyon, or listening the non-stop accordion waltz in the town green, the tourists often walk along the Bavarian fronted streets, stopping by the Munchen Haus and Kink Ludwig's to stuff themselves. Most people come to Leavenworth to eat and drink and they are fat and drunk. If you can escape the food, and look past the rafting, Leavenworth features some of the best bouldering in the North West.
Max Hasson on Scrambled Eggs (v8)
“The climbing is pretty varied for granite,” Justin said. “There were plenty of slopers, crimps, and pinches, even a few pockets. The rock varied from 'just okay' to amazing. The boulders are all really accessible too, like seconds to minutes off the road. Its kind of like a granite Joe's Valley in the Pacific Northwest.”
Kyle O'Meara on Hurly Burly V7 at the Metalocalypse Boulder
While classic problems on the Fridge Boulder, at Mad Meadows in Icicle Canyon, and a circuit around Swiftwater saw ascents as early as thirty years ago, the majority of the bouldering developed within the past decade. Just before the turn of the century, Cole Allen and Johnny Goicoechea rallied out to the east Cascades to establish a hoard of neo-classics including The Sail (v9), Mushashi (v9), Pimpsqueak (v9), and The Peephole (v10). They were joined by Kelly Sheridan, the author of a new extensive guide book, local poster boy Kyle O'Meara, and the uber-strong Joel Campbell. These boys diligently scrubbed the boulders, unearthing a series of slopers, crimps, and granite jugs. In between discovering new problems, they bouldered out many of the classic top rope problems in the area. Going ropeless on the Sword (v3), the butt puckering Ruminator (v6), and running afternoon laps on the Sleeping Lady (v2), a jug haul located directly above the raging Icicle River with death potential, became standard practice.
Thomasina Pidgeon on Answer man V6
Though the bouldering is fantastic- the highlight for Becky was the mini pony that pastured along Icicle Canyon Road. Becky named the little horse Clover . Yeah Mini Pony!
Check out the great video that Justin and Becky made of their trip. Way to Crush!
Labels: Becky Trafecanty, Justin Alarcon, Leavenworth
¶ Wednesday, June 29, 2011 1 Comments
Tuesday, March 1, 2011
A Few From Font: Bay Area Climbers in France
The forests around the French town of Fontainebleau are home to arguably some of the best boulders in Europe, if not the world. Thousands of sandstone blocks with mostly sandy landings litter the forest, making it a prime spot for traveling boulderers. The spring and fall season, read right now, are the best times to go and a few Berkeley locals headed out there to check out the blocks.
Monica Aranda, Justin Alarcon, and Scott Chandler flew out to France together to sample the wine, the chocolate, and most importantly the blocs. By staying in a gite, the small houses near the boulders, and sharing the expenses of a car, the three climbers were able to head out there for a month. They met up with other bay climbers- Ingar, Nora, Beth, Randy, and the ever popular Nevada boulderers Noah and Siemay. The crew is having a blast out there crushing the sloping holds. Check out some of the videos that Scott made of the climbing.
Randy Puro has got more hops than a brewery. Here he is jumping on L'Ange Naif, a classic Dyno at 95.2
Justin Alarcon, Ironworks desk staff hero, climbing the highball Big Jim at Petit Bois. Justin's been complaining of "wet skin"- whatever that means. Watching Alarcon on this highball made my palms sweat a little.
Here's some more footage of wet tips Alarcon climbing Onde de choc at Apremont. It's hard not to be jealous.
Monica Aranda, Justin Alarcon, and Scott Chandler flew out to France together to sample the wine, the chocolate, and most importantly the blocs. By staying in a gite, the small houses near the boulders, and sharing the expenses of a car, the three climbers were able to head out there for a month. They met up with other bay climbers- Ingar, Nora, Beth, Randy, and the ever popular Nevada boulderers Noah and Siemay. The crew is having a blast out there crushing the sloping holds. Check out some of the videos that Scott made of the climbing.
Randy Puro has got more hops than a brewery. Here he is jumping on L'Ange Naif, a classic Dyno at 95.2
L'Ange Naif from scott chandler on Vimeo.
Justin Alarcon, Ironworks desk staff hero, climbing the highball Big Jim at Petit Bois. Justin's been complaining of "wet skin"- whatever that means. Watching Alarcon on this highball made my palms sweat a little.
Big Jim from scott chandler on Vimeo.
Here's some more footage of wet tips Alarcon climbing Onde de choc at Apremont. It's hard not to be jealous.
Onde de choc from scott chandler on Vimeo.
Labels: Font, Justin Alarcon, Monica Aranda, Scott Chandler
¶ Tuesday, March 01, 2011 0 Comments
Tuesday, February 22, 2011
TRS Berkeley Ironworks Comp Date Changed
The Touchstone Rope Series Comp at Berkeley Ironworks recently changed to May 6th.
Justin Alarcon made this awesome video of the comp last year.
Get ready for the next comp at Diablo Rock Gym on April 15th. Get ready for some awesome routes!
Justin Alarcon made this awesome video of the comp last year.
TRS 4 Berkeley Ironworks from Princess on Vimeo.
Get ready for the next comp at Diablo Rock Gym on April 15th. Get ready for some awesome routes!
Labels: Berkeley Ironworks, Justin Alarcon, TRS 5
¶ Tuesday, February 22, 2011 0 Comments
Monday, January 31, 2011
Ironworks Desk Staffer Firing Off Tablelands Problems
The volcanic tablelands of Bishop California are a huge area of steep, juggy climbing. Off the radar from the normal Happy and Sads area are a dozen other locations that require a little bit of exploring to find. Becky Trafecanty made a recent video of gun toting hardman and Ironworks desk staffer, Justin Alarcon, firing off a couple more obscure classic tablelands problems.
The weather is great in Bishop right now. A recent storm dropped the temperatures. There's no snow and there's no crowds. Come out to Bishop!
The weather is great in Bishop right now. A recent storm dropped the temperatures. There's no snow and there's no crowds. Come out to Bishop!
Labels: Bishop, Justin Alarcon, volcanic tablelands
¶ Monday, January 31, 2011 1 Comments
Sunday, January 2, 2011
Ironworks Staff Bros Head to Boulders
Ryan Moon and Justin Alarcon, two of the classic characters working at the Berkeley Ironworks front desk, headed out to the boulders of Sonora for a "bro-date"- hipster lingo for when two "bros" hang out. They made a video of their day of climbing, chronicling the boulder problems they checked out, and the impressive driving send. Check out the video.
Man Date from Princess on Vimeo.
Labels: Justin Alarcon, Ryan Moon, Sonora bouldering
¶ Sunday, January 02, 2011 0 Comments
