Touchstone Blog Archive
Monday, July 25, 2011
Make the Most of Your Climbing Trip- Planning Tips
Summer is a great time for climbing trips. The alpine climbing in the Sierra, bouldering in Squamish, big wall climbing in Yosemite, traditional climbing in the Needles, and sport climbing in the far off regions of Rifle are all in great condition. Fill the car, grab a plane ticket and you're off to the climbing. Making big plans are easy. Making them happen are a little bit harder. Here's a great set of tips to make your climbing goals happen.
James Lucas trying a route on Yosemite's Killer Pillar
Be Realistic. Don't plan on sending your hardest route or problem on a trip. It's difficult to work projects on the road because of time, weather, and other mishaps. Set goals that you can easily achieve. Completing a route is way better than leaving behind a project.
Kim Groebner sending her boulder problem project in Bishop
When visiting a new area, whether it's indoor or outdoor, sample the climbing. Trying a lot of routes or boulder problems will help you get a lay of the land, learn what you want to project, and help you get the basic skills of an area. Start small and get in tune with the climbing.
Jens Holsten acclimatizing to the mountains in Alaska
Be flexible. The weather might not be ideal the entire time, there could be partner problems, or you may injure yourself. Having more than one goal will help in the case of foul weather. Steep rock will often stay drier in bad weather. Slab routes are great to climb when it's cold. If the weather is nothing like you planned, make the most of the situation and check out formations you want to climb in the future. A little knowledge about where the climb is and what it looks like will prepare you for a future ascent.
Jens Holsten on the Northwest Face of Half Dome.
Have fun. One of the most important parts of climbing is having a good time. Stay stress free- if you injure yourself and you'll recover faster. It will also make partner situations a little more relaxing.
Stop by your nearest Touchstone climbing gym, grab some chalk, bars, and a guidebook to your destination climbing area. Get out there and have fun.
James Lucas trying a route on Yosemite's Killer Pillar
Be Realistic. Don't plan on sending your hardest route or problem on a trip. It's difficult to work projects on the road because of time, weather, and other mishaps. Set goals that you can easily achieve. Completing a route is way better than leaving behind a project.
Kim Groebner sending her boulder problem project in Bishop
When visiting a new area, whether it's indoor or outdoor, sample the climbing. Trying a lot of routes or boulder problems will help you get a lay of the land, learn what you want to project, and help you get the basic skills of an area. Start small and get in tune with the climbing.
Jens Holsten acclimatizing to the mountains in Alaska
Be flexible. The weather might not be ideal the entire time, there could be partner problems, or you may injure yourself. Having more than one goal will help in the case of foul weather. Steep rock will often stay drier in bad weather. Slab routes are great to climb when it's cold. If the weather is nothing like you planned, make the most of the situation and check out formations you want to climb in the future. A little knowledge about where the climb is and what it looks like will prepare you for a future ascent.
Jens Holsten on the Northwest Face of Half Dome.
Have fun. One of the most important parts of climbing is having a good time. Stay stress free- if you injure yourself and you'll recover faster. It will also make partner situations a little more relaxing.
Stop by your nearest Touchstone climbing gym, grab some chalk, bars, and a guidebook to your destination climbing area. Get out there and have fun.
Labels: Climbing Tips, Jens Holsten
¶ Monday, July 25, 2011 0 Comments
Wednesday, September 1, 2010
How To Redpoint Better: Shaking Out the Nerves
John shook as he climbed into the crux of the granite route. The two small cams at his feet were more than ample protection. He had the moves well rehearsed from toproping the route a number of times. Still, he looked like an autumn leaf. As he moved off a hand jam and to the horizontal jug on Snowshed Wall's Panic In Detroit (5.12b/c), he whipped.
"I'm just shaky. Maybe I had too much coffee this morning," John said as he dangled twenty feet below the crux.
John pulled back on and smoothly climbed the rest of the route. I suspected that it wasn't the caffeine's fault he had fallen.
Rock climbing is scary. From climbing to the top of the climbing gym wall for the first time, to trying to redpoint a difficult route in Tahoe, climbing remains intimidating. It doesn't matter the difficulty, rock climbing can wreck your nerves which makes the climbing that much harder. Here's some tips on how to redpoint, to climb a little bit better., and maintain composure.
Breathe: This seems intuitive but a lot of people hold their breathe while climbing. I have a number of pictures of myself trying super hard on a boulder problem or route with a red face from not exhaling. It's important to inhale before moving and then exhale when executing a difficult move or sequence. A lot of athletes grunt when they exhale, giving a Bruce Lee "Da!" when they do something difficult. Giving a little shout or exhaling sharply helps and will make your reach go a little further.
Jens Holsten regaining his composure on Silver Bullet (5.12b/c) at Tuoulumne's Private Property Cliff
Relax: Last summer, I watched one of the best female trad climbers in the world send a difficult 5.11 crack in Index Washington while crying. She fought though the tears in part because, although she was scared and emotionally distraught, she was relaxed while climbing. Grabbing holds too hard is one of the biggest reasons people pump out. Their forearms fill with lactic acid from trying so hard. Relax your face. This sounds silly but a smooth face actually helps. Your body is more relaxed and it works more efficiently in this state.
Slow your heart rate: Consciously thinking about how fast your heart is beating and then trying to slow it down will help enormously. Some sport climbers have been known to wear heart rate monitors. While going to this extreme isn't necessary, next time you are trying a difficult route in the gym, stop for a moment and think about how hard your heart is beating. A slower heart rate will pump blood more efficiently and will help you move more smoothly.
John Schmid climbing smoothly at the Grotto in Sonora.
Have fun!: It's easy to get wrapped up in climbing a hard route but the most important part of climbing well is having fun while doing it. Natasha Barnes made a solid point when asked about what the most important aspect to doing well while comp climbing, performing under high pressure. "If you're not having fun then you're missing the point." Enjoy the experience and redpointing will come that much easier.
On his next try, John moved into the crux of the route. He placed the two small cams, breathed and then exhaled, grunting as he hit the hold. He moved solidly into the top crux of the route, relaxing his muscles, and only straining as much as necessary. At the top, he turned and looked out, remarking, "It is a really nice day." He clipped the anchors, making a successful ascent of the difficult crack route in a large part because he was calmer.
"I'm just shaky. Maybe I had too much coffee this morning," John said as he dangled twenty feet below the crux.
John pulled back on and smoothly climbed the rest of the route. I suspected that it wasn't the caffeine's fault he had fallen.
Rock climbing is scary. From climbing to the top of the climbing gym wall for the first time, to trying to redpoint a difficult route in Tahoe, climbing remains intimidating. It doesn't matter the difficulty, rock climbing can wreck your nerves which makes the climbing that much harder. Here's some tips on how to redpoint, to climb a little bit better., and maintain composure.
Breathe: This seems intuitive but a lot of people hold their breathe while climbing. I have a number of pictures of myself trying super hard on a boulder problem or route with a red face from not exhaling. It's important to inhale before moving and then exhale when executing a difficult move or sequence. A lot of athletes grunt when they exhale, giving a Bruce Lee "Da!" when they do something difficult. Giving a little shout or exhaling sharply helps and will make your reach go a little further.
Jens Holsten regaining his composure on Silver Bullet (5.12b/c) at Tuoulumne's Private Property Cliff
Relax: Last summer, I watched one of the best female trad climbers in the world send a difficult 5.11 crack in Index Washington while crying. She fought though the tears in part because, although she was scared and emotionally distraught, she was relaxed while climbing. Grabbing holds too hard is one of the biggest reasons people pump out. Their forearms fill with lactic acid from trying so hard. Relax your face. This sounds silly but a smooth face actually helps. Your body is more relaxed and it works more efficiently in this state.
Slow your heart rate: Consciously thinking about how fast your heart is beating and then trying to slow it down will help enormously. Some sport climbers have been known to wear heart rate monitors. While going to this extreme isn't necessary, next time you are trying a difficult route in the gym, stop for a moment and think about how hard your heart is beating. A slower heart rate will pump blood more efficiently and will help you move more smoothly.
John Schmid climbing smoothly at the Grotto in Sonora.
Have fun!: It's easy to get wrapped up in climbing a hard route but the most important part of climbing well is having fun while doing it. Natasha Barnes made a solid point when asked about what the most important aspect to doing well while comp climbing, performing under high pressure. "If you're not having fun then you're missing the point." Enjoy the experience and redpointing will come that much easier.
On his next try, John moved into the crux of the route. He placed the two small cams, breathed and then exhaled, grunting as he hit the hold. He moved solidly into the top crux of the route, relaxing his muscles, and only straining as much as necessary. At the top, he turned and looked out, remarking, "It is a really nice day." He clipped the anchors, making a successful ascent of the difficult crack route in a large part because he was calmer.
Labels: Climbing Tips, Climbing Well, Redpointing
¶ Wednesday, September 01, 2010 0 Comments
Tuesday, May 19, 2009
10 "Safe Climbing" Tips To Remember
Looks like this week is one packed full of tips for you to keep in mind as summer approaches. We'll all be doing a lot more climbing, whether it's for vacation, time off of school or just because the weather is so nice we can't help ourselves. That said, today's tips are nothing more than simple reminders on how to enjoy yourself the most, by ensuring that you climb safely.
Most of these tips are absolute no-brainers, but nevertheless, it's always good to get a refresher course on safe climbing tips, or if you're new to the sport, to get your feet wet learning the ropes. So, without further ado, and check out the full article to get a bit more in-depth, here are 10 safe climbing tips you should always remember:
See, I told you they were simple. For all of you that already know them, my apologies, for all of you who don't, you're welcome. Talk to any of your guides, instructors or employees at Touchstone Climbing if you want any more information or tips, they'll always be happy to help.
Looks like this week is one packed full of tips for you to keep in mind as summer approaches. We'll all be doing a lot more climbing, whether it's for vacation, time off of school or just because the weather is so nice we can't help ourselves. That said, today's tips are nothing more than simple reminders on how to enjoy yourself the most, by ensuring that you climb safely.
Most of these tips are absolute no-brainers, but nevertheless, it's always good to get a refresher course on safe climbing tips, or if you're new to the sport, to get your feet wet learning the ropes. So, without further ado, and check out the full article to get a bit more in-depth, here are 10 safe climbing tips you should always remember:
- Always Check Harnesses
- Always Check Knots
- Always Wear a Helmet
- Always Check the Rope and Belay Device
- Always Use a Long Rope
- Always Pay Attention
- Always Bring Enough Gear
- Always Climb With the Rope Over Your Leg
- Always Properly Clip the Rope
- Always Use Safe Anchors
See, I told you they were simple. For all of you that already know them, my apologies, for all of you who don't, you're welcome. Talk to any of your guides, instructors or employees at Touchstone Climbing if you want any more information or tips, they'll always be happy to help.
Labels: Climbing Safety, Climbing Tips, How To, Safety
¶ Tuesday, May 19, 2009 0 Comments
