Touchstone Blog Archive
Tuesday, July 27, 2010
Kick off To Comp Season: The UBC with Natasha Barnes
On Tuesday, August 3rd, Berkeley Ironworks will be projecting the Unified Bouldering Championships on the big screen. The live show, which will be streaming from the Outdoor Retailer show in Salt Lake City, will feature some of the best competition boulderers in the United States. Natasha Barnes, a San Francisco Mission local and Touchstone crusher, will be heading out to Salt Lake to compete. She'll be up against other professional climbers like Lisa Rands, Alex Puccio, and Angie Payne. She had a few tips about comp climbing- something to keep in mind for Touchstone's Bouldering Series 6 that will be coming to Ironworks on August 28th.
How do you prepare for competition climbing?
Usually a a month or two ahead I try to work on power endurance by doing as many problems as I can at my onsight level and repeating them. For example, I will go around the gym and do all the V5's-V6's and some of the V7's twice each until I've done all of them with very little rest in between. Basically I try to do a lot of climbing for the first few weeks. A few weeks before the competition I will start trying to onsight/redpoint the harder climbs at the gym especially those on the steeper walls. Once I've redpointed those I try to repeat them each time I come in to train. I also incorporate some supplemental training like hangboard, gymnastic rings, running, some specific weightlifting exercises (rotator cuff exercises etc. for injury prevention).
Natasha climbing at GWPC during one of the TBS comps.
What do you do for mental preparation- as far as pressure, crowds, and other distractions?
I've been doing comps for so long that I've become used to all of those things. I actually really enjoy the pressure to perform and the energy of the crowd. It isn't a distraction for me. I can remember at one of the last OR comps the announcer said over the loudspeaker something like 'If Alex Puccio doesn't onsight this problem, Alex Johnson wins!' and at some other comp something similar was said about Daniel Woods and Sean McColl. THAT would be distracting to know that one slip or one mistake will cost you the whole comp. That might be too much pressure. I don't think it's fair for the announcer to say something like that.
Natasha cranking down on plastic at a comp
What's the most important part to climb well at a comp?
Not worrying about how other people are climbing and to just do the best you can. It's really all you can do. Also, HAVE FUN! If you're not having fun then you're missing the point.
Watch Natasha keep at 3:30 live on the big screen at Berkeley Ironworks then get pysched and come compete at the TOuchstone Bouldering Series later in the month. It's gonna be awesome!
UBC Pro Tour: OFFICIAL TRAILER from NE2C on Vimeo.
How do you prepare for competition climbing?
Usually a a month or two ahead I try to work on power endurance by doing as many problems as I can at my onsight level and repeating them. For example, I will go around the gym and do all the V5's-V6's and some of the V7's twice each until I've done all of them with very little rest in between. Basically I try to do a lot of climbing for the first few weeks. A few weeks before the competition I will start trying to onsight/redpoint the harder climbs at the gym especially those on the steeper walls. Once I've redpointed those I try to repeat them each time I come in to train. I also incorporate some supplemental training like hangboard, gymnastic rings, running, some specific weightlifting exercises (rotator cuff exercises etc. for injury prevention).
Natasha climbing at GWPC during one of the TBS comps.
What do you do for mental preparation- as far as pressure, crowds, and other distractions?
I've been doing comps for so long that I've become used to all of those things. I actually really enjoy the pressure to perform and the energy of the crowd. It isn't a distraction for me. I can remember at one of the last OR comps the announcer said over the loudspeaker something like 'If Alex Puccio doesn't onsight this problem, Alex Johnson wins!' and at some other comp something similar was said about Daniel Woods and Sean McColl. THAT would be distracting to know that one slip or one mistake will cost you the whole comp. That might be too much pressure. I don't think it's fair for the announcer to say something like that.
Natasha cranking down on plastic at a comp
What's the most important part to climb well at a comp?
Not worrying about how other people are climbing and to just do the best you can. It's really all you can do. Also, HAVE FUN! If you're not having fun then you're missing the point.
Watch Natasha keep at 3:30 live on the big screen at Berkeley Ironworks then get pysched and come compete at the TOuchstone Bouldering Series later in the month. It's gonna be awesome!
Labels: Berkeley Ironworks, Natasha Barnes, Unified Bouldering Championships
¶ Tuesday, July 27, 2010 0 Comments
Wednesday, April 21, 2010
Bay Area Women's Climber
Recently, Natasha Barnes started a group on Facebook in an attempt to rally all the Bay Area Women Climbers. Barnes wanted to find more female partners. In the past two decades, the number of female climbing participants has increased exponentially. However, the ratio of male to female climbers still makes climbing a male dominated sport.
Kim Groebner showing the boys how's it done on Serengiti -V5- at Bishop's Happy Boulders
Women climbing with women helps the climbing community immensly. Having more female participants in the sport creates a greater variety in style of climbs and helps the general atmossphere. There are a number of groups out there helping to promote women in climbing. Lizzy Scully, the editor of She Sends Climbing Magazine, works with a number of organizations to promote women climbing. Women Climbing.com is an excellent resource that Scully works with. There's a solid list of climbing literature and organizations for women.
Shannon Moore crushing Panic in Detroit -5.12 b/c trad in awesome metallic spandex
"Is it a coincidence that BA means both BAD ASS and BAY AREA?" Courtney Miyamato, a San Francisco boulderer and crusher commented. Head over to Facebook.com and get together with the Bay Area Women Climbers group. Join the other Bay Area women as they head out to Yosemite, Bishop, and the Tahoe area to crush rocks, have a great time enjoying the outdoors, and enjoy awesome company.
Kim Groebner showing the boys how's it done on Serengiti -V5- at Bishop's Happy Boulders
Women climbing with women helps the climbing community immensly. Having more female participants in the sport creates a greater variety in style of climbs and helps the general atmossphere. There are a number of groups out there helping to promote women in climbing. Lizzy Scully, the editor of She Sends Climbing Magazine, works with a number of organizations to promote women climbing. Women Climbing.com is an excellent resource that Scully works with. There's a solid list of climbing literature and organizations for women.
Shannon Moore crushing Panic in Detroit -5.12 b/c trad in awesome metallic spandex
"Is it a coincidence that BA means both BAD ASS and BAY AREA?" Courtney Miyamato, a San Francisco boulderer and crusher commented. Head over to Facebook.com and get together with the Bay Area Women Climbers group. Join the other Bay Area women as they head out to Yosemite, Bishop, and the Tahoe area to crush rocks, have a great time enjoying the outdoors, and enjoy awesome company.
Labels: Lizzy Scully, Natasha Barnes, women climbing
¶ Wednesday, April 21, 2010 0 Comments
Tuesday, March 23, 2010
Natasha Barnes: Vegan Athlete
Natasha Barnes, a Mission Cliffs climber, and bona fide rock crusher has been climbing for the past 11 years. In between sending 5.13d sport routes, bouldering problems like Thriller and Midnight Lightning in Yosemite,and going full tilt on the Yosemite offwidth circuit, Natasha attends Palmer West Chiropractic, where she is obtaining a doctorate in Chiropractics and Physiotherapy.
For the past five years, Natasha has followed a strict vegan diet. "I only eat Vegans," she jokes. Natasha abstains from animal products, processed food, and operates her body on nutrient dense food. She took a moment to talk about her diet as an athlete and how being vegan helps her send.
what are the advantages of being an athlete on a vegan diet?
Being healthy, feeling healthy and recovering faster. Nutritional stress (stress to the body created by food that has unhealthy properties) is a major source of stress on our bodies as climbers. We put our bodies through the ringer all the time and if we are not eating the right foods (unprocessed foods rich in vitamins, minerals, enzymes, high-quality protein, fiber, essential fatty acids, antioxidants, and good bacteria aka probiotics) than our bodies lack the components they need to to regenerate completely and effectively. Regular consumption of nutrient dense whole foods supports cellular regeneration which rebuilds muscle and other body tissue and is essential for recovery. Faster recovery = climb/train more often and harder = climb better.
VEGAN PIZZA. Spelt crust, ricotta, Sundried tomato pesto, basil, spinach, mushrooms, artichoke hearts and sundried tomato topping with a Malbec.
What do you eat to perform your best?
My best performance foods are whole veggies and fruits. The most nutrient dense and hydrating food. Bananas, oranges, apples, bell peppers, dates, grapes, leafy greens, nuts and seeds etc. I like to eat a big salad with lots of different veggies incorporated if I can. My favorite is one I call Guacamole salad. Mixed greens, cilantro (lots of it), garlic, tomato, avocado (2-3), agave nectar and salt and pepper to taste. It's only a few ingredients but its a winner.
Do you have any difficulties cooking on climbing trips?
No. I usually do burritos or veggie stir-fry because its pretty easy to put together no matter where you are. Plus I love black beans, avocado, tomato and cilantro...AND hot sauce!!
Sprouted corn tortilla, lime crema, shredded cabbage and carrot slaw, chile-beer marinated tempeh, cilatro, tomato, avocado.
How do you eat when you are bouldering? How about when you're sport climbing?
I try to eat pretty light while sport climbing. Bananas and other fruits for quick energy or hummus and veggies for lunch, sometimes I'll just snack on whole grain chips and salsa. I've been trying to remember to drink more water lately. While bouldering all bets are off and its cookies down the hatch. For some reason when I am bouldering I want to snack all day.
How do you add variety to your diet?
I try to experiment a lot and try different foods that I see or read about that I haven't tried before or try different recipes. A lot of the time I end up finding a new food that I totally love and I try and make it more. Its a also good way to make sure I am getting a good rotating variety of vitamins and minerals in my diet.
Will bacon ever grow on trees? How can someone switch their diet?
Haha!! Maybe they can genetically modify some plant to do that but that would be weird. It's easy to switch to a healthier diet. It doesn't have to be a vegan diet. Most of us could benefit even from a small change in diet. It's all about experimenting with new foods and finding what you like. Try to incorporate new veggies and fruits into your diet. You might be surprised. There are a plethora of web resources to help you with the transition to healthier living and recipes for vegetarian food.
http://www.brendanbrazier.com/articles/index.html
http://www.theppk.com/
http://www.veganhealth.org/
These are some.
I also HIGHLY recommend this book by Brendan Brazier Canada's best (vegan) triathlete for athletes more serious about healthy living and eating.
For the past five years, Natasha has followed a strict vegan diet. "I only eat Vegans," she jokes. Natasha abstains from animal products, processed food, and operates her body on nutrient dense food. She took a moment to talk about her diet as an athlete and how being vegan helps her send.
what are the advantages of being an athlete on a vegan diet?
Being healthy, feeling healthy and recovering faster. Nutritional stress (stress to the body created by food that has unhealthy properties) is a major source of stress on our bodies as climbers. We put our bodies through the ringer all the time and if we are not eating the right foods (unprocessed foods rich in vitamins, minerals, enzymes, high-quality protein, fiber, essential fatty acids, antioxidants, and good bacteria aka probiotics) than our bodies lack the components they need to to regenerate completely and effectively. Regular consumption of nutrient dense whole foods supports cellular regeneration which rebuilds muscle and other body tissue and is essential for recovery. Faster recovery = climb/train more often and harder = climb better.
VEGAN PIZZA. Spelt crust, ricotta, Sundried tomato pesto, basil, spinach, mushrooms, artichoke hearts and sundried tomato topping with a Malbec.
What do you eat to perform your best?
My best performance foods are whole veggies and fruits. The most nutrient dense and hydrating food. Bananas, oranges, apples, bell peppers, dates, grapes, leafy greens, nuts and seeds etc. I like to eat a big salad with lots of different veggies incorporated if I can. My favorite is one I call Guacamole salad. Mixed greens, cilantro (lots of it), garlic, tomato, avocado (2-3), agave nectar and salt and pepper to taste. It's only a few ingredients but its a winner.
Do you have any difficulties cooking on climbing trips?
No. I usually do burritos or veggie stir-fry because its pretty easy to put together no matter where you are. Plus I love black beans, avocado, tomato and cilantro...AND hot sauce!!
Sprouted corn tortilla, lime crema, shredded cabbage and carrot slaw, chile-beer marinated tempeh, cilatro, tomato, avocado.
How do you eat when you are bouldering? How about when you're sport climbing?
I try to eat pretty light while sport climbing. Bananas and other fruits for quick energy or hummus and veggies for lunch, sometimes I'll just snack on whole grain chips and salsa. I've been trying to remember to drink more water lately. While bouldering all bets are off and its cookies down the hatch. For some reason when I am bouldering I want to snack all day.
How do you add variety to your diet?
I try to experiment a lot and try different foods that I see or read about that I haven't tried before or try different recipes. A lot of the time I end up finding a new food that I totally love and I try and make it more. Its a also good way to make sure I am getting a good rotating variety of vitamins and minerals in my diet.
Will bacon ever grow on trees? How can someone switch their diet?
Haha!! Maybe they can genetically modify some plant to do that but that would be weird. It's easy to switch to a healthier diet. It doesn't have to be a vegan diet. Most of us could benefit even from a small change in diet. It's all about experimenting with new foods and finding what you like. Try to incorporate new veggies and fruits into your diet. You might be surprised. There are a plethora of web resources to help you with the transition to healthier living and recipes for vegetarian food.
http://www.brendanbrazier.com/articles/index.html
http://www.theppk.com/
http://www.veganhealth.org/
These are some.
I also HIGHLY recommend this book by Brendan Brazier Canada's best (vegan) triathlete for athletes more serious about healthy living and eating.
Labels: climbing diets, Natasha Barnes, vegan athlete
¶ Tuesday, March 23, 2010 4 Comments
Wednesday, October 21, 2009
Yosemite Rocktober
The fall temps have descended upon Yosemite Valley. Today was beautiful, crisp, and perfect for bouldering around the South Side of the Valley. For those who aren't pysched to boulder already, check out this video of Touchstone tough stuff, Natasha Barnes, crushing Do-bop, a sweet V7 crack by the Cathedral rocks.
Natasha on "Do-bop" [v7] from scott chandler on Vimeo.
Labels: Do Bop, Natasha Barnes, Yosemite bouldering
¶ Wednesday, October 21, 2009 0 Comments
