Wednesday, October 12, 2011
Crack Boulder Problems
One of the best ways to improve your technique at crack climbing is by bouldering shorter cracks. Working on your jamming skills close to the ground can help you improve when you're climbing off the deck. Many crack routes come down to boulder problems. The classic Separate Reality, the quintessential roof crack in Yosemite is a long crack boulder problem off the ground. There are a ton of great boulder crack problems in Yosemite, Joshua Tree and in Moab Utah. Check out some of these inspiring videos.
Last winter, Paul Barraza established Aphrodite, a v5 crack boulder problem at the Crumbs. The bouldering below the Cookie Cliff has a number of great problems. Including Paul's highball First act. About the crack problem, Paul said, "It was hard to come up with a grade, since I am not a great crack climber. I managed to wedge my fingers just long enough to send the thing!"
Bachar Cracker is one of the most classic crack boulder problems around. Located just off the Yosemite Falls trail near Camp 4, the steep crack starts off with a hands section before going through a couple finger locks and a hard lock-off move to a large hold. There's an extension that ends by doing the Largo Lunge.
Just past Joshua Tree's Hidden Valley campground is Pigpen, aka the Bachar Cracker of the desert. This long crack problem is one of the best around and a worthy companion to the crack boulder problem in Yosemite.
This mega crack problem in Moab Utah is sustained upside down crack climbing at its best. This testpiece requires serious endurance and tape. Steph Davis hikes the problem in this video.
The Touchstone gyms also have a great collection of crack topropes to practice your jamming skills on. Stop by Ironworks and hit up the thin hands and ring lock test piece over by the lead cave!
Aphrodite [v?] from scott chandler on Vimeo.
Last winter, Paul Barraza established Aphrodite, a v5 crack boulder problem at the Crumbs. The bouldering below the Cookie Cliff has a number of great problems. Including Paul's highball First act. About the crack problem, Paul said, "It was hard to come up with a grade, since I am not a great crack climber. I managed to wedge my fingers just long enough to send the thing!"
Bachar Cracker is one of the most classic crack boulder problems around. Located just off the Yosemite Falls trail near Camp 4, the steep crack starts off with a hands section before going through a couple finger locks and a hard lock-off move to a large hold. There's an extension that ends by doing the Largo Lunge.
Joshua Tree Bouldering - Pig Pen from Natalie Duran on Vimeo.
Just past Joshua Tree's Hidden Valley campground is Pigpen, aka the Bachar Cracker of the desert. This long crack problem is one of the best around and a worthy companion to the crack boulder problem in Yosemite.
the Crackhouse from steph davis on Vimeo.
This mega crack problem in Moab Utah is sustained upside down crack climbing at its best. This testpiece requires serious endurance and tape. Steph Davis hikes the problem in this video.
The Touchstone gyms also have a great collection of crack topropes to practice your jamming skills on. Stop by Ironworks and hit up the thin hands and ring lock test piece over by the lead cave!
Labels: crack bouldering, crack climbing, Paul Barraza
¶ Wednesday, October 12, 2011
