Sunday, July 5, 2009
A Legend Gone:John Bachar
I held the rope nervously as a man twice my age with four times my courage ascended the runout Toulumne face climb.
John Bachar moved with a delicate grace. His feet smoothly transitioned onto each rugosity of Hammer Dome's classic 5.10c Shadow of Doubt. At each bolt, he stopped, leaned into the wall and mimicked the stance that he would take if he had been the first ascentionist hand drilling the route on lead. John climbed the route with a casualness and poise I had never seen. .
John had always held a strict ground-up ethic, maintaining that routes should be established with a sense of commitment and adventure. John walked his talk, establishing Yosemite test-pieces like You Asked For It 5.10c X and the infamous Bachar Yerian 5.11c R in a bold and committing style. Beyond his traditional ethic, John Bachar was one of the world's greatest free-soloist. He made numerous ropeless ascents of hard routes across the US. He ushered in the era of the Stonemasters, a hardcore group of Southern California climbers, who vaulted the standards of climbing. With Peter Croft, John made the first one day ascent of both the Nose of El Capitan and the Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome.
A few days ago, John died while climbing on the Dike Wall in Mammoth, California. He leaves behind a 14 year old son, his business as the founder and CEO of Acopa Shoes, and a legacy as not only as one of the best and boldest, but as a good man, a good father, and a good friend to many. He will be missed greatly.
-J. Lucas
A Young John Bachar
John Bachar moved with a delicate grace. His feet smoothly transitioned onto each rugosity of Hammer Dome's classic 5.10c Shadow of Doubt. At each bolt, he stopped, leaned into the wall and mimicked the stance that he would take if he had been the first ascentionist hand drilling the route on lead. John climbed the route with a casualness and poise I had never seen. .
John had always held a strict ground-up ethic, maintaining that routes should be established with a sense of commitment and adventure. John walked his talk, establishing Yosemite test-pieces like You Asked For It 5.10c X and the infamous Bachar Yerian 5.11c R in a bold and committing style. Beyond his traditional ethic, John Bachar was one of the world's greatest free-soloist. He made numerous ropeless ascents of hard routes across the US. He ushered in the era of the Stonemasters, a hardcore group of Southern California climbers, who vaulted the standards of climbing. With Peter Croft, John made the first one day ascent of both the Nose of El Capitan and the Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome.
A few days ago, John died while climbing on the Dike Wall in Mammoth, California. He leaves behind a 14 year old son, his business as the founder and CEO of Acopa Shoes, and a legacy as not only as one of the best and boldest, but as a good man, a good father, and a good friend to many. He will be missed greatly.
-J. Lucas
A Young John Bachar
Labels: El Capitan, John Bachar, Stonemaster
¶ Sunday, July 05, 2009
