Ken James and Travis Nichols of Class 5 climbed Sun Ribbon Arete for a joint birthday climb. The weather was perfect – about 75 degrees and sunny with no wind – and the snow field at the base was small enough to skirt easily.
After about 9 hours of climbing later, having completed a tyrolean traverse (awesome!), done a wee bit of incorrect route finding and about 18-20 pitches of spectacular climbing, they sat on the summit and enjoyed the spectacular view of the Pallisades, Mt.Sill and a whole lot more.
By the time they got back to their camp at third lake, they were tired hungry and thirsty and already trying to figure out the next big climb.
Sun Ribbon Arete is on Temple Crag and can is reached by driving up to Glacier Lodge from Big Pine (south of Bishop), hiking 7 miles and climbing 1800 feet or so. This is one of the longest and most classic High Sierra arêtes. The route ascends a striking arête for 18 pitches and involves mostly 3rd and 4th class climbing with a number of short harder sections in the 5.6-5.10a range.Temple Crag, The Sun Ribbon Arete (Grade IV, 5.10a, 18+ pitches)
Labels: class 5, climbing, staff