Flash with Panache

When you are about to flash a route, take some time beforehand to find out what the route is telling you. True, you have had no rehearsals, but some of the moves should be obvious from the ground. If there’s a part where you can’t tell what the moves are, there may be a hidden hold or something else that’s invisible from the ground. Ask around for someone who has climbed it before; good beta can be vital to getting through these sections.

While you are working the route, pay close attention to what you are doing on the hard moves. See what works and what doesn’t work. Once you figure out a sequence that works, rehearse it at least three times to lodge it in your head. The next time you go up, you’ll have the pattern in mind and you’ll float right through the hard moves while your muscles are fresh.

When you are working a set of moves, be ready to try improbable stuff. You never know what might work. And you may discover the new trick you need to break into the higher grade.